Thread: Bad coolant leak** Need help...

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  1. #1 Bad coolant leak** Need help... 
    SE Level Member 3R1CD4V15's Avatar
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    General Info:
    1997 GTP
    155k miles

    Problem:
    Leaking coolant from passenger side.
    Steady leak.

    More info:
    Put new 180* t-stat in ~8 months ago.
    Had a small leak before due to lower radiator hose (fixed that)...
    ...then a few days later it would leave a puddle of coolant on the ground

    Things I have tried:
    Replaced the "coolant elbow" (heater hose fitting)

    Questions:
    I think it is the water pump... But the car never over heated (highest ever was 210*)
    Looking for more suggestions or people that had same issue.

    Thanks,
    Eric
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  2. #2  
    Your ClubGP Liason copgtp's Avatar
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    Its either your water pump, or quite possibly the alternator bracket elbow. 97-98 only have one plastic elbow, the lower elbow is actually part of the bracket casting.

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  3. #3 Re: Bad coolant leak** Need help... 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    take the belt off and check the water pump pulley for play and wetness under it.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  4. #4 Re: Bad coolant leak** Need help... 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Agreed. There is a weep hole in the water pump that allows coolant loss when the bearing starts to go bad. This does not hinder operation, it informs you that the pump is going bad.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  5. #5 Re: Bad coolant leak** Need help... 
    SE Level Member 3R1CD4V15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Agreed. There is a weep hole in the water pump that allows coolant loss when the bearing starts to go bad. This does not hinder operation, it informs you that the pump is going bad.
    Took another look at her today and ran her at idle for about 10-15mins. Still leaking bad, but under the waterpump it is bone dry. And under the Plastic "coolant elbow" is also dry. I am pretty sure it is leaking from the metal fitting on the tensioner bracket. I replaced the o-ring on it when I changed the plastic fitting. Maybe the o-ring slid out of the groove? I will have to check that out tommorrow. Now, if that is in fact leaking and the o-ring is fine, what suggestions would you have? Could I find a bigger o-ring?

    Thanks,
    Eric

    *Going to check o-ring and make sure everything is clean tommorrow.
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  6. #6 Re: Bad coolant leak** Need help... 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    take it off and see whats up with it. the O ring may have gotten beaten up when you put the tensioner back on.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  7. #7 Re: Bad coolant leak** Need help... 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Some people laugh when they see a big ole tube of vasoline in the rtv/engine assembly lube etc drawer. It's there for all o-rings. Apply liberally, have a clean surface where you are installing it and you'll typically never have an issue.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  8. #8 Re: Bad coolant leak** Need help... 
    SE Level Member 3R1CD4V15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
    Some people laugh when they see a big ole tube of vasoline in the rtv/engine assembly lube etc drawer. It's there for all o-rings. Apply liberally, have a clean surface where you are installing it and you'll typically never have an issue.
    I just use wd-40... but it was the water pump. all fixed now.

    thx
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