Going WOT but boost is NOT.

Spark Plugs have been recently changed (AL 606's @ .055) Had them at .060, Ran horrible. Seems to run better at this gap.
Spark Plug Wires seem to be good visually.
Cleaned up the terminals for the coils. Had some yellowish goo on there or something.
The Fuel Pressure Regulator has been changed recently as well. Its good. And the vacuum line to it.
Didnt check for vac leaks just yet again, waiting for vehicle to cool off.

My test run after cleaning the coil terminals/inspecting everything/taking off metal plug wire boots, went well. Car seems to run overall a lot smoother.
Can most definitely feel the torque converter lock in, when I try to add throttle to drive faster, RPMs still want to drag down until I let off throttle and reapply.
RPMs only drag down under a light load. Maybe I should try a different gap?

I really would like to check the FP at WOT but getting a fuel pressure tester is quite spendy.. Unless I return it immediately..

you got a pep boys up there in the big snow covered state? if so im sure you can rent one, the rental fee is the price of a new tool, but they refund you every last dime when you return it.

Nope, no Pep Boys here. Nothing here lol. There is an Oreilly's though, Not sure if they have the Fuel Pressure Tester for rent.

EDIT: Amazing, Wasilla store has it, Anchorage does not; for rental. On my way now.

To test the fuel pressure properly, I connect to the shrader valve that is right on the fuel rails?

Ok, I connected FP gauge to the shrader valve on Fuel Rail.

Here are just some random notes that I took while on the test run. Most might be USELESS but here they are:

Car off: 38 PSI
Key On: 48 PSI
Reverse (0 MPH): 43 PSI
Drive (0 MPH): 41 PSI
WOT from low speed: 59-60 PSI
45 MPH: 45 PSI
While RPMs drag down to 2k RPM: 40-60 PSI. Like a propeller on a plane.
60 MPH 0% Throttle: 45 PSI, Apply throttle: Lowers to 40 PSI then jumps back to 45 PSI.
70 MPH, 2K RPM (Torque Converter Locked In?): 40-60 PSI. Jumps between like crazy.
70 MPH, 2K RPM (Torque Converter Locked In?): 48 PSI steady. It'll be steady once in a while, Usually jumps around between 40-60 PSI.
50% Boost: 55 PSI
50% Boost, Car was only at 3K RPM after I applied more throttle from 2K RPM, While TC was locked in. <-- might be a little confusing.

And there it is folks.

At WOT, PSI was always at 60.

Don't mean to double post. Check results. ^

You need to get that thing scanned like I said earlier. The PCM may be adjusting timing due to knock. What kind of fuel are you using?

It's ok to drive the car but I wouldn't romp on it until you know what's going on.

Don't rule out transmission.

Fuel, I always use Premium which is 91 Octane, sometimes 90 I believe. The transmission has been rebuilt about 15k miles ago, but who knows, something may/can go wrong I guess. I'll try to see if I can get it scanned tomorrow and see how everything is.

You do know what I mean by "scanned", right. Analysis of real time data under normal operating conditions. This is performed preferably by a professional tuner. You may want to re-post this issue in the tuning section of the forum. Those guys will help out for sure.

Moderators, HELP!!!

Okay, this whole idea struck me when I witnessed my car bogging at idle right when I started it. Sometimes when I do start my car it will have a low idle for a few seconds before it works its way up to normal RPMs. When this happens I can usually smell motor oil for some reason. This made me look underneath my car and I see that my oil pan is kind of grimy and dirty with black sludge. Doesnt seem to be leaking too much but its noticable for sure. I did have to add a quart of oil about a month and a half ago, that was out of my oil changing cycle. So I am thinking my problem might be oil pressure, at cruising speed; lower rpms. Might not be keeping enough pressure compared to when I go WOT, it seems to be ok. Well I am not going WOT anymore until I get this checked out.

What do you guys think? Could I be on the right track? Or am I just going crazy?

It's a Buick 3.8L. They leak oil, plain and simple and I doubt this is the problem. Let's not get off track here.

When you press the accelerator pedal the computer richens the fuel and advances the timing...all the while looking at engine parameters like MAF, O2, MAP, TPS, Knock. Personally, if I were going try to fix it blindly, I'd just replace sensors starting with the most inexpensive part and move your way up until the problem goes away.

The better way to do it is just get it scanned. A professional tuner can pick out a faulty sensor in seconds. You could have false knock, flakey TPS or MAF; the list goes on and on. The idea of the PCM is to inject the right amount of fuel into each cylinder in reference to how much air is flowing in. Most of the engines sensors need to be working correctly to achieve this.

Thanks for the nice information, sensor wise MAF has been cleaned and ruled out. TPS and IAC are new. Well I will have to pay underground performance a visit, maybe they can help me out more than I think. Thanks once again, I'll post back once I find out.