Think I possibly need a new supercharger already

**Taz Magister** · 12-30-2011

so when I picked up the car paul told me that he thought the squeak was coming from the water pump so I changed it while doing that I discovered the alternator bearing was toast too so I changed that still squeaked so I checked every single pulley the only other one thats ruff at all is the idler for the sc so I'm going to change that today but I'm starting to wonder if the sound might be coming from the snout or something... which would suck I might be wrong and I'll find out when I change the idler but any good ways of telling if the snout bearing is bad? also I'm new to the whole sc thing and I know they get warm but the other day I drove my car a bit parked it in the garage for like 30mins maybe a little more came back and felt the top of that thing and it was still pretty dang warm how hot do they get?

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 12-30-2011

its called a heaton for a reason.

They can stay warm for 5-8 hours after they get completey warmed up.

Just because the snout bearings may be bad doesnt mean you need a whole blower, just buy a different snout and swap them and call it good. Thats what I had to do.

**Taz Magister** · 12-30-2011

well I would like to swap the rotors out as well its an old blower I see that you can buy bearings for them anybody changed them before?

**Fivefingerdeathpunch** · 12-30-2011

Fransworth is one of the only guys around that I know of that does it. Its not easy to do and requires some special tools I believe.

And putting in newer rotors that may have more coating on them most likely wont net you much if anything.

**Zef_66** · 12-30-2011

I have 286k on my stock SC and the bearing are still fine. Not saying they don't go bad, but not something that is typical.

A bad idler is much, much more typical. I would change every idler with the metal ones.

**Taz Magister** · 12-30-2011

well pretty much all of them have been changed but this last one that I'm going to get

**Taz Magister** · 12-30-2011

so after replaceing all the pulleys I discover its the belt.... this happend last time I got my car back from paul lol wtf is he doing to my belts this belt is basicly new Id rather not replace it but I might

**Z34Phoenix** · 12-30-2011

also you dont want to swap a rotor pack into a diff SC case. they wear together and you will mostlikely end up with a leak and loose boost.

**Zef_66** · 12-30-2011

Originally Posted by Taz Magister

so after replaceing all the pulleys I discover its the belt.... this happend last time I got my car back from paul lol wtf is he doing to my belts this belt is basicly new Id rather not replace it but I might

What belt are you running now? Size and brand.

**matt5112** · 12-30-2011

Originally Posted by Z34Phoenix

also you dont want to swap a rotor pack into a diff SC case. they wear together and you will mostlikely end up with a leak and loose boost.

Thats what EGR is for.

**Taz Magister** · 12-30-2011

Problems has been resolved the belt was not aligned

**Taz Magister** · 12-30-2011

nvm now I got some noise coming from the needle bearings I think

**Taz Magister** · 12-30-2011

fek it I'll drive it untill it explods then fix it

**dsmuts** · 12-30-2011

Did you cover the needle bearing with tape or something when you ported it out? My belt sometimes skips one rib over on the crank pulley and it makes a weird noise but it only does it every once in a while.

**Lion29GTP** · 12-30-2011

it wont hurt to cover it because it's a pain to get them out.But it can be done.

**Taz Magister** · 12-31-2011

I did and I put some extra grease on there when I put it back together it might not be them the sound went away there's some slop in the rotors tho

**footballplaya3k** · 01-02-2012

Slop in the rotors or when you move the pulley back and forth by hand?

**BillBoost37** · 01-03-2012

Needle bearings in a SC case aren't bad at all.
Here's what you need

here's how you do it.
1. Remove charger and flip it over. Locate the two holes here that are filled with red

2. Drill them as straight as possible, do not drill into the bearing cap. Drill in steps if needed to keep from puncturing the cap.

3. Tap the holes and assemble the npt pipe and coupler to your grease gun

4. Pump grease gun to hydraulically push out the bearings.

5. Insert new bearings and tap into place (I like to find a socket that fits the outside and use an extension to tap them if a press isn't available.

OR

Get a blind pilot bearing puller and pull them from inside the case.