Thread: Connecting rod help...

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  1. #1 Connecting rod help... 
    SE Level Member JuggaloDan's Avatar
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    I just traded my Foxbody mustang for a 98 Grand prix GTP. As i'm driving the car home the motor locks up, So i get it trailered home and started to find out what happened. Turn's out one of the connecting rods broke at the crank, Crank looks fine but i do need to know where i can get a single connecting rod and wrist pin.
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  2. #2 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    set up a thread in this section Wanted To Buy - Parts At Your grandprixforums.net and check the parts for sale section as well.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  3. #3 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    SE Level Member JuggaloDan's Avatar
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    i wasnt posting to buy a used one, but a web site or something to buy a new one.
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  4. #4 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    GT Level Member torq455's Avatar
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    GM.
    2002 GTP: K&N, 3.2 pulley, flipped mounts. ZZP SS headers, 180 stat, NGK TR6's, MSD wires, Reptile ported TB, ported S/C, ported LIM, Intense Stage II heads with larger Manley severe duty SS valves, Yella Terra 1.9 full roller rockers, LS6 springs, Racetronix fuel pump re-wire, Oil pressure "kit", JMB FWI. Mustang dynoed at 240 WHP, 272 WTQ.
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  5. #5 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    SE Level Member JuggaloDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by torq455 View Post
    GM.
    I plan on looking to see if the cadillac dealership i work at on monday, but don't really wanna pay the over the top price.
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  6. #6 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    GXP Level Member darkhorizon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JuggaloDan View Post
    I just traded my Foxbody mustang for a 98 Grand prix GTP. As i'm driving the car home the motor locks up, So i get it trailered home and started to find out what happened. Turn's out one of the connecting rods broke at the crank, Crank looks fine but i do need to know where i can get a single connecting rod and wrist pin.
    999/1000 times the crank is shot. A new crank and rebuild is about 3x more than a good used motor with at least a 10x higher failure rate.
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  7. #7 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    SE Level Member JuggaloDan's Avatar
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    Aight i just got the new connecting rod in from cadillac dealership, I installed the piston to the connecting rod and i try to take the bolts off of the cap. I get a closer look at the cap and see that its one whole part, shouldnt the cap be cut when i get it or do i have it cut?
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  8. #8 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    SE Level Member JuggaloDan's Avatar
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    Haha nevermind i figured it out.
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  9. #9 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    GrandPrix Junkie
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    So I take it you figured out we have cross-bolted mains?

    I have a feeling that this motor will not last long. I give it another 100 miles before it chucks another rod. The 3800's seem to be very picky about having the rotating assembly in perfect line. Anything wrong and it's bye-bye motor all over again. I'd be willing to bet that a new wrist pin and rod cost you at least $150 from GM, if not more. I was looking to do this when I shattered #1 piston on my 00 GT. After some research I said f-that and bought a used motor w/ 100-something K on it and dropped it in. Runs like a new car and I don't have to worry about breaking it.
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  10. #10 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    SE Level Member JuggaloDan's Avatar
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    Yeah i figured out the cross-bolted mains. Between gaskets and the rod and bearing i spent around 300, most of the money was for gaskets, only spent 60 for the rod and bearing with my discount. But now i have yet another problem to figure out now. I put the piston in and bolt it to the crank, then i noticed that the rod has a little play in it. It moves back and fourth not side to side. Does this mean i need a over sized bearing?
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  11. #11 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    GTP Level Member QwikGT's Avatar
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    could you trade back for the Fox-body? check out car-part.com and pick up a used block with low mileage. L26's out of lacrosses go for about $300
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  12. #12 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    I live here. stealthee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JuggaloDan View Post
    Yeah i figured out the cross-bolted mains. Between gaskets and the rod and bearing i spent around 300, most of the money was for gaskets, only spent 60 for the rod and bearing with my discount. But now i have yet another problem to figure out now. I put the piston in and bolt it to the crank, then i noticed that the rod has a little play in it. It moves back and fourth not side to side. Does this mean i need a over sized bearing?
    It means you're f*cked.

    Knock knock
    Who's there?
    Rod
    Oh Sh*t


    2011 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS - DD mode
    1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT - Many mods to come
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  13. #13 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    SE Level Member JuggaloDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stealthee View Post
    It means you're f*cked.

    Knock knock
    Who's there?
    Rod
    Oh Sh*t
    Well that helps alot..
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  14. #14 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    I live here. stealthee's Avatar
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    All the other posts were help enough. You can't expect to change one rod, epsecially after a lock up, and expect the crank to be unharmed. Even putting an oversized bearing in place is not going to help. The damage is done.


    2011 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS - DD mode
    1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT - Many mods to come
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  15. #15 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    SE Level Member JuggaloDan's Avatar
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    Well i wasnt really expecting it to run, more like hoping it would run... I guess i should just get another motor huh....
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  16. #16 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    I live here. stealthee's Avatar
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    Should have done that from the beginning and saved the $300 you spent on the other stuff.


    2011 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS - DD mode
    1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT - Many mods to come
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  17. #17 Re: Connecting rod help... 
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    Jus go get the crank turned and polished then re hone the cylinder and install re ring kit and be done wit it wouldn't hurt to get it thermal clean wit new plugs and bearings abt 600 bucks worth of machine shop time
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  18. #18 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    The Blue One blueguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkhorizon View Post
    A new crank and rebuild is about 3x more than a good used motor with at least a 10x higher failure rate.
    Only if you can't build it right.
    Sold WBody's: '03 Blue GTP/'98 Green GTP/'98 Silver GT/'05 GXP
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  19. #19 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    GrandPrix Junkie
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    Quote Originally Posted by pushrod4life View Post
    Jus go get the crank turned and polished then re hone the cylinder and install re ring kit and be done wit it wouldn't hurt to get it thermal clean wit new plugs and bearings abt 600 bucks worth of machine shop time
    You also need to align bore the block/crank to make sure everything is straight. Heck, for $600 I could buy a complete running motor, change the LIM, oil pan, valve cover gaskets/grommets and injector o-rings and drop it right in. Plug and play.

    Seeing as how we don't know if the crank is damaged, or if anything else got damaged in the process that machine work+all new parts/gaskets+your time= to much effort to rebuild it. You'd really be better off getting a low mile longblock and just swapping your parts onto it. Then you can try and rebuild it while you still get to drive your car. Or just tear the old one down and have a nice paperweight in the garage

    Can it be rebuilt? Sure, most anything can if done CORRECTLY. These motors just take a bit more to rebuild to ensure they run properly. Should it be rebuilt? That's your call and your money.
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  20. #20 Re: Connecting rod help... 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    X2 ^^^^^

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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