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I'm gonna have to say this IS indeed the torque management. I guess it maybe doesn't activate as soon as you start it and it takes a little bit...idk. Yes negative terminal...doesn't have to be 30 min. Probably like 5 is good enough. I've heard of other members removing both cables and then touching them together to drain any left over power and then letting it sit. I've never tried it though.
okay , yeah this TM that u speak of may be true. i will reset and get back to youse..:)
youre beating on the car immediately after you start it up when your knock sensors arent even on and youre pinging the crap out of the pistons?
LOL THIS THREAD GETS BETTER.
/takes leave of absence from thread
YouTube - ‪IMG 0814‬‏
This is a vid that explains how it holds at 3000 rpm for a bit. let me know if thats normal for my gtp... the last part of the vid explain the bestest.
that looks like torque management to me. do you have the stock pulley still? jw
yep stock gtp , how would i remove TM? its a 1997.
It has to be tuned out. In HP tuners there is a table for torque management settings. You have to set them all to "0" IIRC.
okay insted of buy the tunner program ill try to find someone in my area that can do it. thanks for the help guys. is my car doing this because i dont has trac control button feature. i had no probs like this with my normal gt 2000 3800
Okay took out the plugs and im running champion Rs14 YC6 gap at .54 thou..... is this right???:S:S
HEy guys i found a set of champion RS14 YC6 plugs in my gtp 3800. Gapped at .54 thou . is this right ? i heard these had copper in them...
Finding random spark plugs in your car doesn't sound all that great to me...
well i heard 3800's dont like champions.... and im not sure if theses are right for my car... my car does not really have good take off power and plug when idling, it will have that random miss. it never had a miss before either.... soo im inquireing... thanks.
Most people use Autolite on their GPs. Look back through your other thread as to why you're having issues. Billboost knows his stuff and you seem to be blowing him off... Take his advice seriously.
yea but im not blowing him off at all. i answered all his questions accuratly , i just dont understand wwhat he means by spark plugs having knock....
Not sure about about the plugs being correct, but the gap is what most modern Ford vehicles call for... I'd run down to the parts store and pick up a set of Autolite 605's.
Ok, I know what your issue is. The reason I know what it is ....is because I've stopped and read what you've written and have read up on these cars enough. Please take this constructively, you appear to not want to listen to what we are suggesting... so I'm putting on the kiddie gloves and you may not see me post again in your thread if you don't want to follow by the way I'd like to play this one. We cool?
Your problem is KR. The knock sensors are not used by the pcm until the coolant temperature reachs about 160F or something like that. Therefore up until your car warms up you have no protection from blowing the motor due to predetonation and knock.
Which plugs are in the motor and how old are they? (example NGK platiniums, 6 months old)
Which wires are you running and how old are they?
What octane rating of fuel are you running?
Do you put any additives into your fuel?
Are you running the factory pulley or have you swapped that for a smaller pulley?
Do you have any pcm programming done to the car?
Are all your coil posts clean?
Is your throttle body screen in place?
Likely your issue is that you need a set of plugs, wires and a throttle body cleaning or a fuel change.
aha! we are having a communication issue. Glad I saw this post. BTW I just posted in your other post and at the time I misunderstood that it seemed like you didn't want to listen. Seeing this post, I can see you didn't fully understand what we were talking about. At any time if you don't understand something, please.....say so. We all, want to help out. Therefore if you don't understand something, please...just tell us and we can change how we've said it. Link to other explainations etc.
Those plugs come up as a copper core plug. IMO any copper core is fine in our cars. Brand isn't that important to me. Unless it's NGK, whenever you have an NGK plug check that the metal piece where the plug wire holds on is not a screw on. If it is..ensure it's MF'ing tight before you put it in the car. If it loosens you can get knock from a bad connection.
Just read your other post about the plugs. It seems there's some stuff you might not understand. Please, ask us about anything you might not fully understand. If anyone says something that doesn't make sense or seems out of whack ask. We'll be happy to explain.
Meanwhile plugs are Champion RS14 YC6 - Copper core.
Okay next time ill say so. I was thinking of changing out the plugs cause it itles rought just abit... Wat kind should i get?
97 gtp's have no torque management
the extent of mine is to kill teh motor after the tires spin at 5k