Thread: Engine Splice...to do or not..

So, I've been searching for a good, lower miles motor...and think I've struck gold.

Found a 36k mile L26 engine, that is in great shape for $450.

I've got a good L67 top end. (Heads, LIM, S/C, TB)

I also have a brand new front main seal in my L67s' timing cover.
So would I be able to use that front cover on the L26 block?

So, anyone's input is appreciated. Making a GT-topswap from my GTP...lol

Anything else I would need/ cant interchange between the two engines??


PS. I hope this is in the right section...since its a a weird category.

front covers are exactly the same, so youre golden.

you sure you want to go high compression? knocking becomes a serious issue with them if you try and run the tune too ragged. ive found that it's easiest to run them really conservative in comparison to what you could do with a low compression block.

Yup it will work.

+ cost of Engine gasket kit and maybe swap the l67 oil pan as well. The L26 alum. weighs more and it may be easier bolting up the l67 pan to the mount than the l26.

You would probably be able to sell the L26 lim, uim for $60-80 to a turbo guy. Don't know if you'll get any takers for the other stuff to recoup some cost.

I've been debating that Bio, and I know the low compression is more forgiving. Been searching every day for the past 2 weeks or so, nothing near the price I can do, and its all well over 150k miles.

Shop in Orlando that I spoke to has dyno tuned Supercharged Grand Prix's before, and said they will warranty their tune....which is impressive.
Central Florida Turbo - Tunedbycft.com | centralfloridaturbo.com

So I think that running the high compression, with headers, ported S/C, and TB, and colder plugs shouldn't really chew though it. Im also determined to get a VS cam in there. (I'd love to run a huge cam, but I NEED good mileage, and cant spend the money on valvetrain components)

So does a L26 shortblock w/ ported heads, LIM, S/C, TB, headers, on a VS cam sound rather safe?

And what size pulley should I start with to drive down to Orlando (2.5 hour drive)
(luckily, I've already got the modular pulley setup, so its no biggie to get more pullies)

And thanks for clarifying on the front Cover Bio.

why are you scared of a high mileage motor?

Well, people tend to not be nice to stupidcharged cars. Everyone that I have checked out so far looks like it was never taken car of...

I know these motors are capable of being driven for 200k+ miles if treated right. So Im trying to find one thats lower miles, so it can start being taken care of, for sure, at a lower mileage.

Plus the 110k mileage motor I got to replace my first blown engine, seized on the first crank...so that sucked (yard swapped it out for the current...blown one..)

But I really can't see finding a better motor than this one..36k miles for $450...

i put an 89k mile l67 in my car without fear. i wouldnt be afraid of anything less than 100k.

Yeah, this last go around was in the 60k area...and it was no problem, til recently.
But like I said, everything around is over 150k...most are between 170k, and 230k miles...

But answer the questions dammit. Quit badgering me!

Btw, really liked the 'painted tails thread' the look damn good unpainted, letting the silver show through.

nah, cleared tails are meh.

I like them, would of look good on my Silvermist GT.

Now answer the damn questions, Mr. Grand prix guru that drives a Subaru.

So does a L26 shortblock w/ ported heads, LIM, S/C, TB, headers, on a VS cam sound rather safe?

And what size pulley should I start with to drive down to Orlando (2.5 hour drive)
(luckily, I've already got the modular pulley setup, so its no biggie to get more pullies)

yeah, sounds like a safe bet to me. i wouldnt start with anything more than a 3.4 pulley. normally you have a hell of a time running a stock pulley on a top swapped car unless you do some valvetrain work. you can put whatever pulley on you want, but stay out of boost until you start getting a decent tune on it.

Thanks.

I had figured I'd buy a 3.6 to be able to cruise around, and I'd stay out of boost entirely.

I just wanted to know about what size people can run with those mods, when tuning. Because I plan on getting it back together, driving if for 100miles or so, changing the oil, then getting it tuned....
Think I should start getting it tuned on a 3.6, and see if I can drop any, or would it be better to start off larger/smaller??

Ok...thanks Matt..sneaking that post in...

Reason I say heads, I can get them done for close to nothing...so why not?

Yeah, we traded a machine shop a spare LT1 that we had to do some machine work on my dads Chevy, and my motor...but then mine blew..So they said they'd still do head work for my car for no cost...

Now..what size pulley should I start the tuning with?? Any suggestions?

Right now, only a 3.4 pulley. Got rid of the press on stock one awhile ago.

Obviously, it takes more to run a smaller pulley on higher compression, so I am trying to get top swapped peoples input.
I know I have to get a larger pulley/belt, Just wondering what size to start with, since Im going to be getting it tuned right after it's running.

So im trying to find a middle ground...dont want to spend $50 on a 3.8, if Im going to be immediately dropping pulleys as it gets tuned. But at the same time I do want to keep from blowing up another motor.

So should I grab a 3.8 and start off there, and see if I could possibly get down to the 3.4 safely? Or should I start off with a 3.6, and tune that as well as possible?