Engine Splice...to do or not..

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Originally Posted by matt5112

i'd stick with stock heads if you're going to run a VS cam.

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Gonna have to disagree here on this one. Heads are nearly where it's all at. Good port job on heads = good performance. That's been known on cars since before Geico used cavemen.

As far as the mileage aspect....that's all dependent on how the engine was treated in it's previous life. A well maintained engine with 100k on it can be just as good as a 40k engine....but I've known a few people that run the crap out of a 50k mile car, and.......well, they don't last.

I personally think the ported heads will help you on the higher compression block.

well the cam and the heads should be matched right? VS is more aggressive than stock so a port job makes sense.

But I can't see it being a very big port job.

opening up the heads will just allow the use of smaller pulleys to make up for the extra effort that the cam can't make up because it isn't that big.

Not really....I mean you're right to a certain point. Say he's going for a big lift cam, then you'll wanna have the guides milled ect.
But at minimum, a valve job and having the chambers and bowls worked on absolutely can't hurt. Even on a stock cam motor, the slightest amount of quality work goes a long way.

Thank you sirs...

Granted the VS isn't going to be flowing to the point of needing ported heads, but anything that helps get air in/out should be an improvement..and help kill some KR.

It's not going to be a wild ass, hogged out port job either.

Going to check for cracks, clean the heads, and do a mild port job, matched to the LIM, and open the exhaust ports more.

Anything else that anyone wants to add, go right on ahead....It's the internet after all, and I can't really stop you.

It's all about flow with these motors.

Ported heads on ANYTHING are good...long as you can get the air out just as good. ZZP had claims when they first started selling their CNC or ported heads that just tossing them on a basic 3.4" setup car were netting 20 to the shweeeels.

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Originally Posted by Bio248

opening up the heads will just allow the use of smaller pulleys to make up for the extra effort that the cam can't make up because it isn't that big.

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That....really makes no sense to me. I mean really it doesn't.
95% of the time the engine isn't going to be running WOT, and you know he's going to try and get away with using as small of a pulley as he can, especially if he's running a higher compression. You can ask any engine guy, and he'll tell you that heads are probably the most important part to pay attention to. They're important in fuel delivery, atomization, and getting rid of the exhaust.
It sure as heck can't hurt, that's all I'm saying.

So..consensus is..
Ported heads good...I know the difference they make on 350's, so I can't see it doing anything but helping. Plus free is good.

Run a 3.6, with the VS, and get it tuned.
Then just be happy that I have a car again....
Then the transmission will get jealous of all the attention and blow up...I just know it.

im not disagreeing with you. the heads make or break a build. the heads only truly need to be 'opened up' when you have a bigger cam that will flow more air. polishing and a nice valve job will do the majority of the gains.

Alright, I'll go with that. LOL

I was picking up you were saying that he's gonna be wasting his time by having a little head work done.

Abrasive's car (from the previous owner Swash) had minor head work, it was a bowl/chamber polish and a 5 angle valve job, and it made a HUGE difference in how the car ran. It was a DD 3.4 rockered car that ran an ass load of timing, and I even got a 3.25 to run on it with no kr, but Jay took it off because I think he seriously got scared of how hard it ran. No doubt in my mind the heads had everything to do with how that car ran.

If it's free, yeah why not. Other than that, most decent head jobs take a decent amount of cash, its just not the highest hp per dollar mod out there at that level.

I would run the 3.4 pulley and scan the car when you do and be aware of the affects weather can have on a car. If it knocks, take the s/c belt off while you wait for a larger pulley. It's going to need a custom tune to take advantage of the cam and get the proper afr. That cam on high compression should be a fun daily driver.

Yeah, taking it straight to the dyno for some tuning after an oil change.

And I do know about the whole weather deal too...make more boost, and I knock up here in NC during winter...then its down to FL in the summer..where its 100...

But it should be a nice DD. Be happy to be putting down some more power too.

What does a good Head Job like Jays run ? The 5 angle valve job and the bowl and chamber polish ?

I didn't do a ton of research on this but I did a lot of thinking before I planned my engine buiild. Started off blowing my L67. Priced rebuilding it. was over $1000 to do it how I wanted. I know it was risky, but I got a L26 w/ 26k miles from ebay for $350. Got the intense s2x cam and Ls6 springs. My buddy did the heads for me. (valve job, blended, guides, etc) Still have to order roller rockers and pushrods. I made a custom LS1 throttle body w/ "progressive" linkage, and will run a LS1 MAF. Sent my blower to reptile for porting. I think I'm going to stick with a 3.4 pulley, and hope that kr is fine. *pretty sure it will be... I think the L26 bottom end is the way to go. They are so cheap, and lots can be found with low miles. Don't have to run high boost, which to me means less heat coming into the engine. I'm super excited to get this thing on the road. I swapped the L67 in and blew it up in a little over a month. Thats my story and I'm stickin to it.

Haha, sounds pretty damn close to mine.

Got my L26, full motor for $275 bucks, only 35,600miles on it. Should be at my house in 7-10 days...

Im gonna run a ported L67 TB, since my Gen 3 is already inlet/outlet ported, and the rotors look damn good.
Ordered the VS cam tonight, with a new chain/damper too.

Quick question though. Do the L26, and L36 have the Cam timing set one degree off from the factory, like stated in the Top Swap thread??

And when I put the new chain on, just line the dots up like usual, right??

GL NineD9GT, both cars should be fun!

Yes, the cams are different, which means they're timed different also. I used an L67 cam sprocket since that's how my PCM is set up. Line the dots up like you normally do, and spin it over a couple of times just to make sure they stay lined up. No guess work, if you're gonna run it like a blown motor, build it like a blown motor.

Thats what I needed to know!

So plop that VS in there, line my timing dots up, and button it up, and make sure they stay lined up.

Thanks again Reptile.

Did you take your oil pump cover off or anything to clean out the front cover in case it picked up anything? If so, pack it with petroleum jelly before you put it back together, it tends to help the oil pump prime faster. I even go so far as to turn the assembled engine by hand with a wrench to make sure everything feels good.

I'll be watching this. Once I have the money saved up I'm pretty much going for the same build you are, not such a small pulley since I'll probably have stock heads.

Alright, Im going to take lots of pics with my camera (not as awesome-o as yours tho) and try to do a full, picture write up on a top swap. Since thats what its going to be.

That and make a coloring book for Silvaman