Thread: Coolant Leak

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  1. #1 Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member swat0712's Avatar
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    Ok, so I have a coolant leak coming from the little 90 degree elbow that's below the supercharger snout. From what I've seen on here so far, I guess it's "in" the intake manifold? I so have the blower/snout and stuff off so far and just makin sure I'm heading in the right direction. Also, any suggestions on what else to do while I'm in there would be helpful. I'm already replacing my bad coupler and porting the blower and tb so... Thanks!
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  2. #2 Re: Coolant Leak 
    resident snitch gtpinsc's Avatar
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    u will have to tune the car if u port the TB.

    02 GTP with mods 05 GP for DD
    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSport View Post
    The majority of the people here are potheads who want to buy good condition parts at junkyard prices.
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  3. #3 Re: Coolant Leak 
    resident snitch gtpinsc's Avatar
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    also what mods do u have to need a ported TB?

    02 GTP with mods 05 GP for DD
    Quote Originally Posted by SuperSport View Post
    The majority of the people here are potheads who want to buy good condition parts at junkyard prices.
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  4. #4 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member The Chad's Avatar
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    You'll need to remove your belts and the alternator bracket, maybe more that I'm not thinking of right now. Your leaky elbow is the upper elbow. There's a lower coolant elbow there that will probably break also, so you'll want to buy both of them. Parts of the elbow will probably break off inside the housing, no matter how careful you are. They usually break off where the O-ring's are. Shine your flashlight inside the insertion points, locate where pieces had broken off, and pry the pieces out with a flathead screwdriver.

    Part numbers should be:
    24053423 Pipe assembly w/ O-rings
    12565082 Pipe w/O-rings
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  5. #5 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member swat0712's Avatar
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    Ok, so no go with porting the tb then, basically the car is stock and I would rather not have to get it tuned so. That's why I was putting this out there before I did port anything.

    So for changing the elbows, I know this might be a dumb question, but do they just "pop" out without actually having to get down into the engine? I'm more or less a newbie at car stuff, whatever I know is because I learned by doing it on this car and I've never really had the engine apart so. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated
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  6. #6 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member swat0712's Avatar
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    Oh, also what I meant by is there anything else I need to do, is there any other "preventative maintenance" I should do while I'm working on this other stuff? The car has about 160k on it and I'm hoping for it to at least last until I'm out of school, which is May. Beyond that wouldn't help either because I'd like to get my college loans payed off ya know?
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  7. #7 Re: Coolant Leak 
    I live here. TLSheff's Avatar
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    As unfortunate as it is, unless they know something I don't. You have to pull the LIM (Lower Intake Manifold) to replace it. if its leaking, its busted, break it out. but to put one back it, you can't just POP it in. its not rubber so it will NOT flex to get both 90* points in. You'll get to go digging, have fun and enjoy it. just do it somewhere warm so you CAN enjoy the bonding with your car

    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier View Post
    ...not scanning/monitoring your motor is like bangin a hooker and you just HOPE your not infected.
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  8. #8 Re: Coolant Leak 
    I live here. TLSheff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swat0712 View Post
    Oh, also what I meant by is there anything else I need to do, is there any other "preventative maintenance" I should do while I'm working on this other stuff? The car has about 160k on it and I'm hoping for it to at least last until I'm out of school, which is May. Beyond that wouldn't help either because I'd like to get my college loans payed off ya know?
    If you haven't bought the aluminum felpro LIM gaskets yet I would consider biting the bullet, spend a couple hundred, get all the gaskets and replace it all thru the top end.

    http://www.grandprixforums.net/video...utes-3112.html
    ^ Everything you need to know, and DO when you need to replace those nasty little 90s

    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier View Post
    ...not scanning/monitoring your motor is like bangin a hooker and you just HOPE your not infected.
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  9. #9 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member swat0712's Avatar
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    Ok...Yeah, I was pretty sure from what I read that I had to pull the LIM, but the way it was said on this thread looked like they could maybe just be popped in....I'm sure I'll be on here a lot with questions so again any help is appreciated. I'm leaving town tomorrow, so I probably won't be working on it again until next week. It's in an insulated but unheated garage with the blower off, will it be ok sitting like that all week?
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  10. #10 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member The Chad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TLSheff View Post
    As unfortunate as it is, unless they know something I don't. You have to pull the LIM (Lower Intake Manifold)
    Uh oh TLSheff, that was your six hundred and sixty sixth post!!!

    I don't think you have to pull the LIM to do the elbows. I did mine while replacing the LIM gasket (LIM means "lower intake manifold", fyi), but you should be able to do it with the LIM in place.

    You may as well replace the LIM gasket, however. You'll need to eventually, surprised that it's 160k and hasn't needed it yet! Check out the How To section of the forum, and look for LIM in 33 minutes or something like that from DuBob. It's a video that walks you through the LIM gasket replacement process. You'll see the coolant elbows at about 9 minutes into the video.

    If you have a warm garage, some tools, and some patience, you can do it.
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  11. #11 Re: Coolant Leak 
    I live here. TLSheff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Chad View Post
    Uh oh TLSheff, that was your six hundred and sixty sixth post!!!

    I don't think you have to pull the LIM to do the elbows. I did mine while replacing the LIM gasket (LIM means "lower intake manifold", fyi), but you should be able to do it with the LIM in place.
    Lol I can't believe I missed that post :P

    You have to either unbolt the LIM or the huge tensioner/bracket that it goes into. Both bolted to the block, and being aluminum, will not move. Since the elbow is plastic with o-rings, you will either tear the oring IF you get both sides in or you will break the new one trying to get it in. Being that its not rubber non of the 3 will flex, so without alot of KY and luck something will have to be unbolted.

    If thats the case, replace the LIM gaskets so you don't have problems in the immediate future

    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier View Post
    ...not scanning/monitoring your motor is like bangin a hooker and you just HOPE your not infected.
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  12. #12 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member swat0712's Avatar
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    Ok...So what I'm seeing from this is I probably have to pull the LIM. Can you guys tell me what all gaskets, o-rings, etc, need replaced? I'm gonna be ordering a coupler from zzp probably today so, any help would be great. I'd like to get it all at once from zzp. Unless you recommend going local for anything.

    Thanks
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  13. #13 Re: Coolant Leak 
    The Blue One blueguy's Avatar
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    I recommend going to auto zone...they have EVERYTHING you need and want.

    You will need for teh yob...

    METAL, not plastic LIM gaskets (it comes with RTV so your good on that). Since your down that far...I'd yank the valve covers and change those as well if you haven't done that yet...be sure to get the set WITH the new rubber grommets for the bolts. Coolant elbows...you can get them in the HELP! section at any auto parts store...S/C gasket...Felpro...from any local auto parts store as well...and it comes with the 2 yellow rubber O-Rings for the LIM. ZZP Green coupler is good...go to GM to get the S/C oil...2 full bottles will suffice. I'd replace the throttle body gasket since your there...its like a couple bucks...you will also need Red Anarobic sealer...not RTV to seal the blower snout back to the rotor pack...the oil will get passed the RTV...Anarobic sealer can hold the oil back. As for anything else I might be missing...someone feel free to chime in...I don't recommend ZZP for VC gaskets as they are crappy and don't seal. If your not going past the LIM...then ZZP is probably fine and most likely sells the GM Aluminum ones...which are great as well. I can't stress how important it is to clean everything as well...brake clean is your friend too...after you get everything bolted in and filled up...change that oil.
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  14. #14 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member swat0712's Avatar
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    Ok...So I ended up going another route which seems like it will work. However, I did break the tensioner bracket, so I bought a new one. I can't get the heater hoses off the old one though. Any suggestions on how to do this, or where I can find those brackets that mount the hose to the belt tensioner? I'm thinking it would be good to replace the hose but I can't seem to find the little metal brackets.
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  15. #15 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member swat0712's Avatar
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    So the coolant elbow was replaced. Just so you guys know...All you have to do is take the tensioner assembly out, put the coolant elbow in, and bolt it back on. Just be more careful than I was with removing the tensioner assembly and it's a heck of a lot less work than going down the the intake manifolds.
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  16. #16 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member The Chad's Avatar
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    It's not necessary to pull lower intake for these elbows, as I'd said, but you'll want to do the LIM gasket soon! The gaskets fail, and it already is failing but you just can't see it. The gaskets are breaking which allow coolant to leak into the oil. Sometimes, like mine did, it will leak externally. Anyway, bad news. If you're going to remove the supercharger, you're already part of the way there to the LIM gasket so you may as well do it.
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  17. #17 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member 1998DaytonaPaceCar's Avatar
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    Preventative maintenance is your friend, your car will thank you later
    1998 Daytona Pace Car #1371 of 1500
    Mods: Pacesetter headers, 3.4" S/C pulley, 180ยบ t-stat, K&N FIPK Intake kit, Cross drilled rotors, 18" rims, DHP PCM, Custom exhaust (Cherry Bomb glasspack acting as resonator, 2X Corsa sport mufflers from my old 06 GTO R.I.P.)
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  18. #18 Re: Coolant Leak 
    GXP Level Member offroadfury6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swat0712 View Post
    So the coolant elbow was replaced. Just so you guys know...All you have to do is take the tensioner assembly out, put the coolant elbow in, and bolt it back on. Just be more careful than I was with removing the tensioner assembly and it's a heck of a lot less work than going down the the intake manifolds.
    This is my issue ATM. as I tried to take the old one out, it pretty much shredded on me. anyways don't u have to take the belts off, taker alternator off, then tensioner and then unbolt the metal housing that the hose goes into? and if so...wouldn't you also need a new gasket for that housing??

    thnx a fast response is nice since my DD is down...
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  19. #19 Re: Coolant Leak 
    GXP Level Member offroadfury6's Avatar
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    do u need a new gasket for that tensioner brakcet thing? that you need to remove to get the plastic 90* elbows in? because if i'm not mistaken it bolts to the head?

    any gaskets there?
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  20. #20 Re: Coolant Leak 
    SE Level Member swat0712's Avatar
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    Yeah, you do have to take the belts and alternator off but that's not hard, I'm not sure what you mean about the housing? The tensioner assembly has three bolts, one of which is also holding the alternator on, that's the long one so don't forget where it goes. There are no gaskets as part of the tensioner assembly, as long as you don't break the aluminum part that goes into the head all you have to replace is the elbow, which already has o-rings on it.

    So, you unbolt the alternator, should be 4 bolts I think, then you unbolt the tensioner assembly which will only have two bolts left, one next to the pulley, the other is below where the heater hoses come in, then GENTLY rock the whole tensioner assembly back and forth to work it out. If you don't end up breaking it you still might want to replace the o-ring on the aluminum part. If you do break it it's about $70 at autozone. Hope this helps.
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