When you take out the U-Bend...take out the cat...who cares about emissions. The midwest doesn't.
Also...any check engine lights...probably a vacuum leak around the blower.
Printable View
When you take out the U-Bend...take out the cat...who cares about emissions. The midwest doesn't.
Also...any check engine lights...probably a vacuum leak around the blower.
No check engine lights, I have checked the vacuum lines and replaced all connectors that were cracked and i have -18 for vacuum
Blue knows his ****, dont doubt him. Hes done the cylinder delete mod, and is on his wallet delete mod. Pull your plugs, check them out, see if they are beat up, have no protruding electrode, or are in loose. Do the easy stuff first. Im still betting that since you have the ubend and stock mani's on a 3.4 pulley that your knocking, and the engine is taking a beating internally.
Never doubted him, just trying to solve one problem at a time. Pretty sure I could tell a difference in idle if a plug was smashed right? I very well could be knocking but the knocking could not be causing the onset of decreased boost if its always been there, the knocking that is.
No, but if it knocked long enough (said 2.5 years) then it's caused damage. If theres a fouled plug then it may idle fine, but when you get into boost, it's blowing the spark out.
Either way, its an easy fix if it is. If not, re-re-check your vacuum lines.
Also, did it gradually lose boost, or was it an all of a sudden thing?
Probably going back to a clogged cat from chunks of piston? IDK...I don't know sh1t
Haha, yeah. Lets take it a step at a time then. Check your plugs, if they are good, take your downpipe off, its only 4 bolts. Drive it around (gonna be ****ing loud) and see if that resolves the boost issue.
Also Blue, if hes knocking like a *****, it would retard his timing, and cause a bleed off of boost, correct?
Honestly i just noticed it about 2 weeks ago when i went to pass someone at about 60 and it seemed like it took forever and i got on it a few min later and happened to look at the boost gauge. I thought it might have been leaking out from the vacuum line that goes to the a/c control module since i could not change the position on it but i fixed that and it still does it and the a/c thing had been messed up long before it started doing this.
If your running your boost lines for a gauge...to your A/C...I bet that's your problem right there.
Thats what im thinking...Is you line tapped into the line going under the S/C to the MAP sensor??
Also, if you drop from 11psi to 5 psi, its not going to be a "seemed to take forever" its going to be a "wtf is wrong with my car?"
Its tapped ito the MAP sensor
Well thats 11 at shift 7-8 normal and i really didint notice it till i had four people in the car and i was like it seems slower than it normally would with 4 people
Well damn....
Here's my final solution.
With 4 people in the car, its gonna be slow, thats an extra 400-600lbs it has to push.
You're beating your car up without having enough mods to use the 3.4"
I say, stick a 3.6, or 3.8 back on there, and play it safe, quit demanding more boost than it can handle.
You're gauge might be messed up, check your electrical connections, my oil pressure gauge did that, it had a bad connection, and would say i was at 45psi one day, and 12 the next, scared the **** outta me.
If all else fails, disconnect the gauge and forget about it, either the motor can somehow handle the 3.4", or it will blow.
Im out of ideas really.
Haha ok well thanks for the help i think im going to take it to this guys shop that i know who always fixes my car when i cant figure out whats wrong with it
Not to rain on your parade nick, but a clogged cat would cause excessive boost.
SO 01GTP you have any ideas if its not the cat
1. The boost is going somewhere. You have a leaky gasket under positive pressure
2. KR suddenly got worse and timing and boost have been pulled by the boost control solenoid
3. You have belt slip, replace the belt.
Those are my guesses. A good mechanic may have a smoke machine he can hook up to the intake to find leaks. Belt is easy to check for, look in the grooves, if you see shiny or cracks, replace it. If you're getting KR to the point where the PCM actualy pulls boost and timing, you have worse problems my friend.
I am going to replaces the belt today or tomorrow it is kinda greasy, when that a/c line got burned in half either it was spitting spitting out oil or something else is putting out some oil, the oil is all over alternator, power steering pump, cv axel, oil filter, its pretty thin oil too and does not really have a distinct smell and i do not see it leaking from anywhere