So yea, just did the LIM which wasnt to bad...basically next on the list is getting in a new timing chain and dampener. Does anyone out there have a write up on what to do for it? Thanks guys
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So yea, just did the LIM which wasnt to bad...basically next on the list is getting in a new timing chain and dampener. Does anyone out there have a write up on what to do for it? Thanks guys
Removal Procedure
Remove the engine front cover.
Align the timing marks on the sprockets so that they are as close as possible.
Remove the timing chain dampener.
Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Remove the camshaft sprocket and the timing chain. Important: If the sprocket does not come off easily, a light blow on the lower edge of the sprocket with a plastic mallet should dislodge the sprocket.
Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove the balance shaft drive gear in order to access the camshaft thrust plate, if required.
Remove the camshaft thrust plate bolts, if required.
Remove the camshaft thrust plate, if required.
Remove the balance shaft driven gear bolt, if required.
Remove the balance shaft driven gear, if required.
Clean and inspect all of the components for wear and/or damage.
If the pistons have been moved in the engine, use the following procedure:
13.1. Turn the crankshaft so that the number one piston is at top dead center.
13.2. Turn the camshaft so that, with the sprocket temporarily installed, the timing mark is straight down.
Installation Procedure
Install the balance shaft driven gear. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. Notice: This bolt is designed to permanently stretch when tightened. The correct part number fastener must be used to replace this type of fastener. Do not use a bolt that is stronger in this application. If the correct bolt is not used, the parts will not be tightened correctly. The system or the components may be damaged.
Prevent the balance shaft from rotating and install the balance shaft driven gear bolt, if required.
Tighten the balance shaft driven gear bolt to 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.) . Use the J36660-A in order to rotate the bolts an additional 70 degrees .
Install the camshaft thrust plate, if required.
Install the camshaft thrust plate bolts, if required.
Tighten the camshaft thrust plate bolts to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.) .
Install the balance shaft drive gear, if required.
Align the timing marks on the balance shaft drive gear and the balance shaft driven gear.
Install the crankshaft sprocket.
Install the timing chain and sprocket.
Assemble the timing chain on the sprockets with the timing marks as close together as possible.
Install the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.) . Use the J36660-A in order to rotate the bolts an additional 90 degrees .
Install the timing chain dampener.
Tighten the dampener bolt to 22 Nm (16 ft. lbs.) .
Important: Rotate the engine two revolutions and check the timing marks. Ensure that the marks are aligned.
Install the engine front cover.
This is for the front cover to get to the chain.
Removal Procedure
Caution: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Service Precautions.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
Drain the engine oil.
Drain the cooling system. Lower the vehicle.
Loosen the water pump pulley bolts.
Remove the drive belt tensioner.
Remove the water pump pulley.
Remove the radiator outlet hose.
Remove the crankshaft balancer. Important: Be careful not to damage the crankshaft.
Pry out the crankshaft front oil seal with a flat bladed tool such as a large screwdriver. Use care to avoid damaging the crankshaft front oil seal bore or the crankshaft front oil seal contact surfaces.
Disconnect the electrical connectors from the following:
The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
The oil presser sensor
Remove the crankshaft position sensor shield.
Lower the vehicle.
Install the engine support fixture.
Raise the vehicle. Important: The oil pan can be dropped slightly for engine front cover clearance if all pan bolts are loosened and the oil level sensor is removed.
Remove the engine mount bracket for oil pan access.
Remove the oil filter.
Disconnect the oil level sensor electrical connector.
Remove the oil level sensor.
Remove the oil pan-to-engine front cover bolts.
Lower the oil pan and remove the oil pan-to-engine front cover bolts.
Loosen the remaining oil pan bolts to gain access for the engine front cover removal. DO NOT remove the remaining oil pan bolts.
Remove the crankshaft position sensor.
Remove the engine front cover bolts.
Remove the engine front cover with the oil filter adapter as one assembly.
Remove the engine front cover gasket.
If replacing the engine front cover, remove the oil filter adapter and pressure relief valve from the engine front cover.
If replacing the engine front cover, remove the water pump from the engine front cover.
If replacing the engine front cover, remove the oil pump cover and gear set from the engine front cover.
Inspect the oil pump cover and gear set.
If replacing the engine front cover, remove the camshaft position sensor from the engine front cover.
Inspect the timing chain for overall in and out movement. Maximum movement is 25.4 mm (1 inch) .
Inspect the sprockets for wear.
Inspect the oil pan gasket. Replace the oil pan gasket if necessary.
Clean the engine front cover mating surfaces.
Thanks a ton man!!! Thats going to help out immensely!!! I appreciate it big time
So now its about to be crunch time and im about to budget for the timing chain replacement! Pretty much I have these components listed that I am going to purchase, please let me know if there is ANYTHING else (i.e. special bolts or O-Rings). I already have the elbow for the waterpump so I dont need another one of those!
Timing Set (Sprockets, Chain)
Timing Gasket Kit
Timing Chain Dampener
Water Pump, Gasket
Oil Pan Gasket
Lower Intake gaskets if they haven't been done...hell your that far in it might as well go all the way through it.
actually thanks for all the help with this issue guys! I also found a bad ass site for those who are more *visual* here. Its not necessarily timing chain only, but I think it could help out a ton! Google Image Result for http://www.mccgp.com/upgrades/caminstall/lowered-under.jpg
Hey guys, a couple more last minute questions about this timing chain (I just want to make sure its done correctly! - Do I need New Cam/crank sprockets or will the old ones be fine - Do I need a new cam bolt - What size is the cam bolt - It says to tighten down the cam bolt to 74 lbs, then an additional 90 degrees... Does that mean tighten to 74 then tighten further (so basically 110 pounds roughly?) You guys are awesome...thanks!
I would replace the gears so everything is new. And yes you should replace the cam and crank bolts, go to the dealer and get them. Torque the bolt to the 74ftlb and then guess the degrees as you tighten further with a wrench.
i remember you saying in another post that the cam sprocket bolt is an odd size...at least i think you did (like 33 mm or something). Do you have the correct size for it?
This sounds like an absolute ***** to do...
I was talking with a friend yesterday about getting new plugs/wires and he mentioned I should go ahead and change out the timing chain as well.
Mechanic quoted me a little over $400 for plugs wires and the chain replacement. Is that a decent price?
just a hair over 93,000. I've never heard about replacing them at 200k, thought it was a 100k item. Also, I mis-spoke. It doesn't include a chain replacement, obviously at that price. They just make sure it's timed "correctly".
Timing chain will need to be replaced soon, and I got an estimate from Aamco for it... not too pleased with the price.
NOOOO the chain does not need to be replaced. I am at 111k and its never been done yet and the car runs perfect, trust me its a waste of money to change it now, the motor is harldy even broken in yet, these car last well into 200k+ on stock chains and engine and trans, they were built that way.
news to me, you prob know more about it than I do so I'd be glad to wait to 200k to change it. Would save me $700+ in parts and labor.
So changing the plugs isn't that difficult? I've read about "rocking" the engine forward and have scoped out the engine bay at the rear plugs look hard to get to. Obv would like to do this myself/save $$$$$ and have changed plugs before, just not on this car....
the fronts are easy, just pop the boot off and chagne plugs.
the back are just in a tigher space, if you have skinny arms like me, i can reach them fine, same basic process, just have to take your time, if you have a spark plug puller tool it works great on the plugs, the only hard one is the one right next to the rear o2 sensor, should take you about an hour or so to do.
yea, fronts wouldn't be a prob as they're right there. Rear might be an issue for me since i'm taller and bigger than most. arms def aren't skinny.
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