Thread: Need Help Finding Forged Pistons

Crap Farns. You added more information I was unaware of with the offset and directional.

So the machine shop did all that work on your block for just $200? If so that is WAY cheaper than I thought it would be. I guess the only way to tell if I need the cylinders over bored is to measure them and see if they are messed up?

Man, I wish you were in ear shot. I need to sit down with someone so I can take notes and such and make sure I have all the info I need.

The machine shop I used is local, and the third one I talked to about doing the work at that. They had done a few other 3800's before of the Series II's. Turns out, its the same machine shop AnimuL and FieroX used cause this shop knows their stuff.

Yup, best way is to have the cylinders honed and cleaned and measured, and if they are with in the specks of the bore size of what ever pistons you go with then wha-la your good to go. Then if something should happen, and there is damage to the block cylinder where the only way to rebuild it is to bore the cylinder to clean them up and go over sized you can. I wouldn't go over a 10 bore myself if I had to. Personally if it came down to it needing bored, I would probably scrap that block and go get me another one to build. Hints why I am saving up on good blocks when I can. I have 1 complete L67 and 2 long blocks and 2 short blocks in my garage, and no, not for sale.

~F~

Well I'll check around here, but I highly doubt I can find a shop with any type of dedicated experience in the 3800 Series II. Wichita aint that far away I suppose and would probably be worth it for the peace of mind.

Boreing is not worth it.

.20 is the most i would go even at. Even boreing over does not yeild a great hp gain. If i remember right when i was building my motor i talked to zooomer he stated it was at most 10-15 hp extra. I did it anyways to say what the hell.

The most i would do on the block if you are wanting to touch it. Stock specs diamond pistons.

Big guys at zzp and intense ran on a stock block. If you have it tuned right and an monitor what your 02s and such you will be fine.

If i ever build my car back up. At most i will due new rods and pistons

Originally Posted by SyntheticShield

Wichita aint that far away I suppose and would probably be worth it for the peace of mind.

Zainoman knows the way.

The shops on the south side of town too.

Take 35 north to Wichita/47st. exit. go through the toll road, exit on 47th street to go West on 47th and take that to the first stop light = Broadway, take that North (right turn) and just past 31st. St. South on the left hand side of Broadway, Smith Machine. Vern is da man!

~F~

Well quite honestly, when I get the block tore down I will probably load things up and head that way. I would feel a whole lot more comfortable dealing with a shop that has worked on 3800's before. If I can find one around here that would be fantastic, but as I mentioned, not likely.

Sorta...

You should only really bore if the cylinder has excessive wear, such as a pretty good "lip" at the top or bottom of the bore where the rings stop each time. Sometimes this can be machined down to get the new piston in, but would of course increase the bore size, so thats why you would increase the size to start over with a bigger piston, and like you said, have a true straight cylinder.

Honing will pretty much freshen up the bore, to allow the new rings to be properly "run in" to their new home in the cylinder. The crosshatching will cause the edge of the rings to seat and grind at the bore and over time will cause the cylinder walls to be nice and smooth like glass, by then, the piston rings are properly broke in. This can take about 5K miles of normal running (no racing) before the cylinders are completely smoothed down on a fresh build.

Laymens terms above I guess.

~F~