Finally found my vac leak... NOW WHAT??

[DanGTP]

I finally found the reason I've been having so much trouble with the car. I've got a vac leak at the EGR inlet on the SC housing. I'm guessing the leak is where the tube meets the inlet, or somewhere close to that, but I don't know if it has a gasket there, or if it's just metal to metal. I got the most reaction when I sprayed the carb cleaner on the outside of the bend where the tube enters under the TB. My question is: What the heck should I do? Can I weld/braze the area? Can I put a gasket or RTV where they meet?

[archemedes]

get a new tube from the dealer (was I think $20 from the one here who tends to be higher than most) I also used a bit if copper seal when I reassembled them and have had no leaks since

[scooz14]

do they do inspections there.

if no, just remove the entire system

[DanGTP]

I'd love to remove the system, but I have no way to tune the code out, nor is there anyone close to me that can. If a new tube is that cheap, I might just buy it instead of trying to patch this one.

[Zef_66]

The metal tube on my EGR got a crack in it. The flange would seal fine, but the tube was cracked. I chose to remove the entire EGR. But you can order a new tube from GM. I think it was $18 for me locally. I would start there.

[archemedes]

why remove it? It doesn't hurt performance one bit (egr is bypassed at wot by design), and the block off and retuning is more than fixing it correctly

[Toasty]

why remove it? It doesn't hurt performance one bit (egr is bypassed at wot by design), and the block off and retuning is more than fixing it correctly

x2, and if you go to sell it, it could hurt resale if you dont have it on there.

[Iron Indian]

why remove it? It doesn't hurt performance one bit (egr is bypassed at wot by design), and the block off and retuning is more than fixing it correctly

Don't tell that to a guy with an Intercooler... They will dirty up your intake and core real fast. I've had my setup apart a few times before and after an EGR, you can notice a big difference in the runners on the LIM. I never ran an EGR with my IC but i have seen and cleaned up core with EGRs still functioning, there nasty.

Anyway, if you plan on Intercooling in the future, i'd recommend removing the EGR. Unless you want your core fins cakes with **** in a few months. Thats up to you.

Blocking an EGR, may cost you $5 max by the time you get the metal and surely you have a drill bit and a tap handy. If you have a tuner, you are there all the way.

x2, and if you go to sell it, it could hurt resale if you dont have it on there.

OK... in that case do like I did and tuck the wires away and put the EGR parts in the attic in a box, problem solved. If you want to reinstall it later, RTV that leaky connection, and bolt it on. It only takes a matter of minutes to put it on.

[Toasty]

Don't tell that to a guy with an Intercooler... They will dirty up your intake and core real fast. I've had my setup apart a few times before and after an EGR, you can notice a big difference in the runners on the LIM. I never ran an EGR with my IC but i have seen and cleaned up core with EGRs still functioning, there nasty.

Anyway, if you plan on Intercooling in the future, i'd recommend removing the EGR. Unless you want your core fins cakes with **** in a few months. Thats up to you.

Blocking an EGR, may cost you $5 max by the time you get the metal and surely you have a drill bit and a tap handy. If you have a tuner, you are there all the way.






OK... in that case do like I did and tuck the wires away and put the EGR parts in the attic in a box, problem solved. If you want to reinstall it later, RTV that leaky connection, and bolt it on. It only takes a matter of minutes to put it on.

yeah using the block off plate, that would work... though most i've seen that remove it end up welding the hole shut to keep leaks from reoccurring...

[Zef_66]

x2, and if you go to sell it, it could hurt resale if you dont have it on there.

I was under the same impression and had mine on there forever. But when it started leaking, it was cheaper to remove it, than it was to fix it. So I pulled it off. And I have found that I can tune much easier without the EGR messing things up. Basically, like someone else said, it is a computer controlled vacuum leak. And when you are trying to get your trims as close as possible, this really screws things up. I could only get ±3 on my LTFT before. Now I am >±1 LTFT now. Close trims, closer tune. Closer tune, more consistent running. More consistent, better fuel economy. This is my experience, FWIW.

And yes, I didn't throw mine away or anything. If I go to sell the car, it is going back on.

[DanGTP]

Removing it will not do me much good at the moment because I have no way to tune it out. And, the leak is not at the mating surface, but at the point where the tube bends to go into the housing. I was recommended to use muffler repair putty as a temporary fix until I can either find a way to tune it out or get a new tube. I called the local dealer to get a price and was surprised at the price. $47.99!! GEEZ where can I get one of the $18 tubes?? The $2 putty is looking better and better.

[archemedes]

man your dealer either is looking at the wrong thing, or is doing the markup at a huge percentage. The repair putty burns off within a few minutes (tried it it failed)

[Zef_66]

Removing it will not do me much good at the moment because I have no way to tune it out. And, the leak is not at the mating surface, but at the point where the tube bends to go into the housing. I was recommended to use muffler repair putty as a temporary fix until I can either find a way to tune it out or get a new tube. I called the local dealer to get a price and was surprised at the price. $47.99!! GEEZ where can I get one of the $18 tubes?? The $2 putty is looking better and better.

Yeah, I looked it up on GM Parts Direct: Your direct source for Genuine GM Parts and they list it at $13. I couldn't find the part number. But they are probably either overpricing it, or quoting the wrong thing.

[DanGTP]

Well, I finally got the tube replaced. Cost me $22 after I talked the parts guy down from $38. While installing that, I also found another vacuum leak source. The hose coming from the BBV to the TB was torn, so I fixed that. The car idles considerably smoother, but I still think that there is another leak somewhere... I halfway looked over the other vac lines, and none of them look torn/cracked. Also, I used an entire bottle of carb cleaner everywhere I could think of/get to. Intake manifold possibly?? I've heard it's notorious for leaking. Just as an FYI, all gaskets on the motor are the original ones installed from the factory.

[Zef_66]

Well, I finally got the tube replaced. Cost me $22 after I talked the parts guy down from $38. While installing that, I also found another vacuum leak source. The hose coming from the BBV to the TB was torn, so I fixed that. The car idles considerably smoother, but I still think that there is another leak somewhere... I halfway looked over the other vac lines, and none of them look torn/cracked. Also, I used an entire bottle of carb cleaner everywhere I could think of/get to. Intake manifold possibly?? I've heard it's notorious for leaking. Just as an FYI, all gaskets on the motor are the original ones installed from the factory.

If your LIM gaskets are original, I would change them. If they are not bad now, they will be soon. Just plan on changing them out so it doesn't leave you setting somewhere with a blown motor. Just take a saturday and do it.

[DanGTP]

Well, the earliest I can do that will be the first weekend in May. Too long to wait?

[Zef_66]

Well, the earliest I can do that will be the first weekend in May. Too long to wait?

If it is not giving you problems, then no. But with mine, I noticed that my antifreeze was going away little by little. Once a month or so, I had to top it off. And since it wasn't leaking, I figured I had a bad LIM gasket and needed to change it. I was right. The gasket when I took it apart was not pretty.