Thread: New headers after engine pull lots of noise

Recently I had my flex plate crack on me on the drive home, so I pulled the motor and replaced it. I had some SpeedDaddy headers that I decided to finally put on. The fit was actually damn good, and I RTV'd all the joints. I used Felpro manifold gaskets and Bandclamps not the ****ty ones it came with. I now have a light tapping noise comming from under the driver side of the engine It sounds like its from near the flex plate area, and it increases with RPM. At idle(800rpm) its "taps" about 1once a second or so; Its not a fast "tap" at all. The other problem I have now is under acceleration (over 3500rpm) I get a roar from the exhaust. I checked for leaks, and havent found any, and it doesnt do it in neutral or park, only while in gear. Exhaust setup: SpeedDaddy headers, 2.5" ZZP cat back with no res (i know, i know, getting one soon, too raspy) and flowmaster 40 mufflers.

Checked everything out, headers arent contacting anything (besides the trans dipstick tube.) Fixed the leak where the headers bolted to the cat-back. While under the car I realized "hey that's oil.....****" My motor mount *bracket, not the actual mount* is full of new oil. The car has never burned or leaked oil before. Theres no oil on the oil pan, oil filter, or the oil filter neck(connects filter to the engine.) I lost about 1 pint over 20miles or so of driving, and had quite a bit on the driveway. The only thing I can come up with is the front main crankshaft seal is bad. I've ordered a new seal and a 8 rib Powerbond crank pulley,(and 8rib idler set, gonna get a wider belt) and want some quick advice.

Which is the best method (safest, since I JUST replaced the flex plate 3days ago) to pull the crank pulley bolt? I've heard both good and bad about the starter trick, and about using vise-grips on the flex plate and a breaker bar.

Also, from what I've gathered, get a puller (not the jaw type) and go to a parts store to get M6x1.0 bolts and washers for the puller. Then once the crank bolt is out, use a 3/8 extension to keep the main bolt of the puller from messing up the threads inside the crank.

Thanks for any input, and sorry, but I have little experience working on the crank pulley. Anything to make this procedure easier would be a god send, just put the motor back in a few days ago and I dont even want to look at the damn thing.

Also, and advice about swapping the front seal?