Thread: Plugs???

I wasn't even aware that Autolite made 105s. Try some 104s first. Won't cost much and it is a quick swap. There is only so much colder plugs can do. Instead of spending a LOT on Brisk or other plugs take a good look at your setup. Based off of Overkill's comments, the Brisk plugs won't work too well over 12 psi, and Brisk themselves recommend their conventional plug for our applications. My opinion is to just get the AL104s. If that doesn't solve anything, you might need to look at your tune or maintenance or more supporting mods. Your mods should be enough to support a 3.4 though.

EDIT: I didn't catch that you haven't put the headers on yet. Get the 104s and with the headers I bet you will be fine.

I am not a big fan of the iridium but if you are set on them then get the equivalent heat range to the 104s that I mentioned above. That might be the TR6IX, but I don't know.

Brisk doesn't even recommend their LGS plugs for anything other than a stock s/c 2800. Since two different people at Brisk told me this I decided not to try them
I'm running TR6IX plugs right now, but have just gapped a new set of Autolite 104's to install tomorrow. I've had no problems with the TR6IX, I just change plugs often.

My last set of Autolites (AR 103) lasted about 10k miles. They are cheap and easy to get.

Originally Posted by crashman

Sorry my typo I'm running 104's and I have had them in for almost 10K. Thanks and maybe I'll get a set of the TR6IX's just to see how my car feels about them.

I'm a big fan of the NGK iridiums. However, if your 104's have 10K miles, then even putting a new set of 104's should be beneficial.

The Iridiums aren't really suppoed to be gapped. Two reasons. First ist easy to break the center electrode and the iriduim coating is very thin. I would imagine even if you didn't accidently damage the center electrode, you would still want to be careful not to scuff the center electrode tip and rub the iriduim off.

The TR55IX plugs are a stock replacement and gapped at .060 (stock gap). The TR6IX are gapped at .039, which means you would have to gap them.

What I did was used two flat blade feeler gauges to create the .055 gap I needed. They were stacked like this -_ I put the bottom gauge blade on the center electrode and ONLY slid the top blade for checking the gap -_ to = and back to this -_ when removing. You can gap them, but you just have to be careful. And never attempt to gap these plugs with a wire gauge or circular step disk gauge.

Let me be the one to tell you about the Brisk Plugs. I think Lee doesnt like me and it was all a ploy by him.

So I buy some Brisk LGS plugs from him. I get them in my car and go out for a test drive and added so much power and responsiveness to my car, this is what happened:

Well not really. The tranny was going anyway, so I didnt get to test the plugs out very much to begin with. I drove a couple miles at best before the tranny finally let go after 7 months of chewing itself up.

I will say this and I did a review somewhere on here that the BRISK plugs made a noticeable difference in idle smoothness. I just cant really comment on them much past that since I drove with them for such a short time and by the time I get the car back on the road with tranny and engine upgrades that any direct comparison will be pointless. So I will likely yank the plugs out and run AL605's to tune the car and make sure all will be well then try the BRISK plugs again.

When I put in the TR6IX in replacing the AR 103's with 10K miles, I too noticed a smoother idle. However, I'm pretty sure the AL's needed to be replaced period.

Fwiw Overkill likes and sells the Brisk plugs. I think he said they've had good results with them but had to do more testing at higher boost levels. Hopefully he will come in and enlighten everyone. I won't run them solely because of the conversions with Brisk and the 3.25 pulley I'm running.

I have no doubt they are good plugs on a stock s/c or na cars.

I really need to buy one Nology silver racing plug and test those. They are the same plug as the Brisk G14YS that are recommended for FI cars. I messed up one of the Nology plugs messing with it too much.

Made your lower intestine cinch up, imagine my reaction when I pulled it off there. To say nothing of what the differential looks like. Its all good though, I thought I would be mad and upset about it, but actually Im more impressed that it drove for 7 months even with a few WOT runs here and there. I had a point when I got on it that it would shift into 2nd and act like it was missing bad, like the spark was getting blown out and I spent a LONG time chasing that down. Well I finally found it. The sun gear was so rolled over that it could not grab the planetary gears and that was the miss.

I actually thought I was having belt slip with a 3.4" pulley of all things, LOL.

I've tried many plugs on my car... TR55, TR6, AC RTL, etc etc... i've had the best luck with the Autolite plugs.

I run Autolite 103 Coppers @ .050 w/ basically a... MSP CAI, 4" ducting, HVTB, TB spacer, Ported S/C, PRJ IC, Machined LIM, 3.0" DUB, 1.9 Rockers, CC 105# springs + Ret, TOGs, 3" exh, Overkill Custom Tune, Volt booster, Alt Rewire, Lucas 42.5# inj, Fuel Pump Rewire.

In my GFs car I run Autolite 104 @ .054 w/ basically a... Thrasher CAI, ILGPC IC, DUB 3.25", JimmyC 3" Catless DP, Overkill Custom Tune, Volt booster, Alt Rewire.