|
...ahhhhh!
what is your peoples need for low intake temperatures? you dont need them! i ran an open cone on my car from the beginning. i guarantee under any conditions that an open cone will make more power than any other intake.
no crap, but how are you going to produce lower than ambient temperatures? it just doesnt happen. therefore, my 120* IAT still produce as much power as someone running completely ambient at 80* because of the timing tables and how much the blower negates the intake temperature just by heating it up anyway. was my car a monster on a 3.4 pulley in winter? yes. did it feel more like a dog when it was 80* outside in summer? yes. you cannot control weather, so do yourself a favor and make an intake that FLOWS well. the intake temperatures just do not matter that much. i will argue this up and down for weeks.
so is there a magic number that the air can only be heated to a certain degrees or something? 40degrees hotter is a lot less dense air, having the cooler air would produce more power and let you run more timing with less knock. not trying to argue here just trying to understand it.
once moving, the open cone gets close to ambandent temps. its only when your stoped for a bit that they start to rise. once back up to speed there back down to ambandent.
Fear no longer my friends! The Fail Intake v3 is out!
I bought this 4" filter today at autozone. I placed it next to the old 3" one for comparison:
Here's how I set just part of it into the fender:
Here's the finished product with an improv heat wall:
Could we also add the open cone to the "how to safely mod your 3800 engine" write up? I'm not sure if it's there, I've only read through the pulley drop part, but it could be mentioned in the FWI section where it says "build your own".
The point it is your supposed to read the entire thing...not just how to drop pulley's unsafely and blow up your car.
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Tags for this Thread |