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I understand that. I am going to get it all breathing well before I do anything eles.THe Programmer is a bit much to start off with I may have someone program it for me the first time till get to purchase some more mods and then go for it. Cat back or Headers and all? I Have a Maxima that I am selling and I know with that car everyone told me that Headers would not really do anything on the car for performance wise. But I have never dealt with A SC before. I know the headers on my Trans am work well. Also has anyone eles done the Lexar Air box writeup on the How to page it looks like it came out really nice and I would like to try. Just wondering how easy it was to make the bea=nds come out right. I can not wait to get back from my trip and get this car.
Last edited by jacobmh27; 03-19-2008 at 10:34 AM. Reason: typeing
Well for the headers it depends on how far you plan to mod. If your plan is to run a 3.4 and no more then I would just get a plog w dp. You will shift your powerband some with headers giving you a little more topend. For the tuner, just start out with a DHP 1.0 or find someone to do a basic tune. I ran some respectable times with my DHP 1.0 canned tune. You can always sell it later when you want to step up to a real tune.
SO get the Cat back? Before I do the 3.4" RIght? DO I have to. THe Pully and tune is a lot less expensive than the Exhaust. I do not want to hurt the car by pushing to much air in and not haveing the room for Exhaust.
Headers would make a decent size dent in the kr reduction process and also a noticable gain in performance. The front header is the worst. Check out zzp for more info on that.That is why i am only getting the p-log (i may see what my kr is at without it and save and get some headers down the line) ZZ Performance (here is some info on the restrictive front mani) ^
That write up does look very nice and the finished product looks awesome. It shouldnt be to hard to do just have to have some time and patience is all. i dont have a lot of patience so i just bought one lol.
they have people trapping 115 on 2.5 exhaust imho i would do a set of headers or p-log and downpipe and be done with the exhaust.check out this thread that i started about my 2.5 zzp downpipe and listen to what the majority of everyone is saying.the fourm is your best friend
how did you come about finding your car??
i just happend to start wanting one and just happend to see one that a guy had right down the street from me and decided to stop by and ask him if he ever had any probs with it ect. just to get an idea about it and to see how he liked it and he said he was just about to put a for sale sign on it...lol...5000 later i had a car.i used to know someone with one a long time ago and i needed a dependable car and couldnt settle for something slow lol
stock exhaust usually is always restrictive and imho headers on any car will increase performance...but then again i havent seen the header design compared to the stock ones on a maxima
My friend got the car a bit back and he is just wanting something newer and he said 5000 and it is yours 2001 2Dr 95000 Mi GTP He just did full tuneup and Trans filter along with bolth wheel Bearings
no, not necissarily. You can get an aeroforce guage or something comperable. The guage is just used to monitor knock. The aeroforce monitors much more. You dont need a catback, save that money for something else.
no scan gauge is only a tool that reads your engine parameters most importantly knock retard....every car is different so if someone puts a 3.4 on a stock car and blows up his motor and someone else does it and drives it for 8 years and doesent doesent mean it is the ideal setup...you want a scan gauge to monitor your kr...the ideal kr would be 0 that means that you pcm is not retarding timing to prevent detonation thus means more power...this is a good scan gauge here you go....AeroForce Tech Interceptor OBDC2 Scan Gauges: 3800 Performance
I love my aeroforce, I dont see how anyone can mod and not have something to monitor knock. Its kind of pricey but it pays for itself in many ways.
yeah i know i am used to always having my hpt scanner in my car on my laptop and when it's not in there and i look at the stock insrument cluster i feel very mis informed lol
just plug it in to your 0bd2 port under the steering wheel on the right hand side and that it. but hey remember scan gauge plus reprogramed pcm is 350.00 150.00 more means you can get that hpt and have 75% more of a tool to use that is if you have a laptop.not trying to sell you onthe hpt although it may sound like it...it's just that i almost did the same thing and i am glad i didnt go that route now...it's all a matter of opinion and to what extent your going to be modding and how often....why dont you tell us what your 1/4 mile goal is or your future mods your planning on doing...we may be able to help you out mnore and save you some money.example: if your planning a full 3 in exhaust down the line and u want a down pipe now then u dont need a 2.5 u need a 3in..i've done it so many times and so has every one else...just trying to help someone out when i can...why make your own mistakes when you can learn from someone elses???????
I'd rather have the gauge there all the time since I won't have the HPT hooked up all the time. I'm going to be getting both, so doesn't really matter to me.
and I'm just the opposite. I have the HPTuners Pro and a ScangaugeII. The HPTuners for serious work and the scangauge to throw in quickly and occasionally just to have a look.
The Scangauge is new so, I may change my mind later about wanting something in there all of the time, but I hope not.
The aeroforce has a lot of benefits, it's good if you don't want to have a laptop in your car and check it all the time.
It is also good because it has so many other features in it. The things I use it for is setting it so when it sees so many degrees of KR a red led will come on, and i back off the throttle if it ever comes on. I also pull up trouble codes on it. I started using the trip timer on it to find the fastest way home too... lol
It's a good investment but you really have to think about how far you want to go with this car before you start dropping $1,000 in guages but it only runs 14's.
I would only recommend getting a tuner after your comfortable with the car, getting a tuner right away and not knowing how to use it could create a lot of problems.
And never drop pulley sizes without checking kr or having sufficient mods, you will kill your engine and make less power anyway.
Bolth make very stong points. The fact is I am not sure how far I want to go. I have always been a bolt on guy with My TA. It has a 327 out of a 68 Camero and a Carb. Never been into Fuel Injection. Only did minor things to my Maxima and Accord. Exhaust Intake Better wires. Simple things. I am finally getting a car worth doing something cool too and am just trying to find a good place to start. I guess what I take so far is to do the Intake then mabey the Down pipe and the P-Log then mabey a smaller pully and a tune are in order. With some monitoring. Does that sound about right?
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