Installing guages, need some hints tips.

[DnaProdigy]

Ok next weekend i will be installing some gauges, my big weakness is electronics so obviously i have a bunch of questions about the instillation. I will try and keep the questions as straightforward as possible. Pictures would be a HUGE help.

Gauges i am installing: (Auto-Meter, Ultra-Lite)
1) Oil Press 0-100
2) Boost
3) A/F ratio.

The Catch: The Oil and boost gauges were used with cut wires and tubing.

1) The oil Press guage has 5 wires. 2 for the light, one for ground, one for ignition switch, one for the oil pres harness --> Sender. Here is a great visual. Oil Gauge Installation. I have the sensor but not the harness that plugs into it. Is their a place to get this so i don't have to buy a whole new guage?

Part B: Where does the sensor plug into, i see the location in the image but where is that exactly?


2)The wire that goes to the ignition is what turns on the gauge when the car goes on (or so i understand). Where exactly does this go? I have heard some tapping into the fuse for the wipers, would that be the pest option. If so where is the fuse for this and how do i connect it? (Any pictures or outside material would help, i really have no idea how to do any of this).

3) Is the A/F gauge Pigtail just a good idea or is it necessary? Air-Fuel Gauge Installation Pigtail - PFYC.comIf not how should i tap into the o2 sensor?

Part b: What is a whideband o2? Is it necessary for the gauge to work right? Where can i get this wideband o2?

4) The gauges have to be connected into 12v lighting. Can i connect all the gauges together first and then one wire to the battery (red side) and then one wire to a ground.

5) Where would the best place to connect the boost gauge and where can a buy a T fitting?



Thanks in advance, any help or links to literature would help!!

[DnaProdigy]

Help with any of the points will be usefull!!

Thanks!

[Bio248]

1a) no clue...

1b) the sending unit? it goes in the oil filter bracket on the lower, rear passenger side of the motor. normally clipped in there is the low oil pressure sensor cord. disconnect it and zip tie it somewhere away from belts and moving parts. unthread that sensor and put the sending unit in. run the wire up to the top side while youre down there.

2) get a multimeter and start ringing out wires. it needs to have 12V with the car on, and 0V with it off. i think the wires are usually pink. not sure which one specifically because i usually use different wires depending upon where im wiring stuff up.

3) the pigtail is made so you dont have to cut your o2 sensor wiring. i would suggest it.

4) the 12V lighting is so that the gauges light up when you turn the interior lights on at night. completely different than running it to the battery. look towards your headlight switch for this power.

5) instead of ending your vacuum line at the MAP sensor (back of the blower) put a T fitting on that and just continue to run the line over and into the firewall near where the brake booster and fuel lines are. that is the cleanest setup.

[DnaProdigy]

Thanks Bio! Thanks a good chunk of info, it will be a big help when I'm installing my gauges.

1) I think i figured out my answer, i believe i need to purchase the sender for the electrical oil pressure gauge (1-100 psi). Then i need to attach the Oil Press sender wire (left on diagram) to the sender. I believe this is the sender i need.

B) Answered

2) Answered

3) Answered. Going to buy the pigtail from ZZP (its cheaper)

3B) I now know the difference between a wideband and naroband o2. I also now know i cannot use my narrowband guage with a wideband o2. Is a narrowband o2 gauge ok or should i really go for the wideband?

4) Answered. I also found a really good write up on connecting it to the interior lights and the dimmer switch.

5) Answered.


If anyone can help with the remaining questions it would be appreciated. Thanks

[Bio248]

a narrowband is usually a waste of money, but i have found one use for them: a few places sell modified A/F gauges. they only read from .800mV up which makes them good for WOT tuning. no narrowband will ever stand up to the usefulness of a wideband though.

[DnaProdigy]

a narrowband is usually a waste of money, but i have found one use for them: a few places sell modified A/F gauges. they only read from .800mV up which makes them good for WOT tuning. no narrowband will ever stand up to the usefulness of a wideband though.

I got it for free so i guess it will just make pretty lights on my gauge pillar lol.

I dont have a tuner anyways so even if i had the whideband i wouldent be able to do the necessary fine tuning.

The Narroband would be able to tell me if i had a problem tho right? I suppose i am most concerned about running to lean, would the gauge i have let me know? or would problematic emissions be outside of the gauge range?

[blk03]

i would run a wb a/f .. the narrow bands are junk

[Bio248]

you really cant tell a whole lot from a narrowband sensor at all.

[DnaProdigy]

That stinks, ill just throw it on now until i have the cash to buy a better one. Thanks guys.

[Bio248]

like i said, you can probably look into getting one of the modified ones to use for now. i had one and it was fairly helpful.

[DnaProdigy]

Something like i found from a Google search here? Hmm could be a useful alternative. Thanks!

[Bio248]

yeap, the one that is modified to only read in the upper o2 ranges.