What's the best material to fill up blower silencer slots.

[DnaProdigy]

Soon i will be getting a P&P blower, as soon as i do i'm going to fill up the silencer slots to get the most whine out of it as possible. The Blower is a Gen 3

I have heard either JB Weld or Aluminum epoxy. Using a hot weld is out of the question, i don't have one or want to risk warping.

I would like to know who has used what and how long ago was it done.

I have heard of pieces breaking off and going into the engine, is this just a possibility or has it actually happened to anyone?

Any tips on using JB Weld or Aluminum epoxy?

Thanks in advance!

[QwikGT]

why not just leave them alone? its a useless mod that doesnt do anything. what if the epoxy comes loose and gets sucked into the engine? im sure it has happened before, guys with cobalts do the same thing. save your money... back in the 80's the GN guys used to epoxy the intake plenum and the same thing happened.

[blueguy]

Yup...Save your motor and money. Or better yet get a GenV and port it and make that thing sound stupid wicked.

[Bio248]

not really worth the effort, but i have mine sealed up with an aluminum epoxy. still there for over 6 months.

[DnaProdigy]

why not just leave them alone? its a useless mod that doesnt do anything. what if the epoxy comes loose and gets sucked into the engine?

Useless? Louder blower wine isn't useless, it is a mod just as a new muffler is on our cars, although it could have detrimental effects. This is what i am trying to determine so could you please stick to first hand dealings with this modification.

Yup...Save your motor and money. Or better yet get a GenV and port it and make that thing sound stupid wicked.

A top swap would be rather pricey to gain whine, which is my only goal at this point. My car is near my goal for speed (until i get a steady job).

Ty for the info bio, this is what i am looking for. Anyone else with experience on this?

[QwikGT]

its useless because it doesnt do anything other than run you the risk of destroying the engine when the epoxy decides to let go

[TDCRacing]

Epoxy work that was requested by one of our customers is still going strong and it has been 8 months and 7 days since his order was placed.

Another customer that we had request it has been using his blower for 3 month without issues.

The last customer that requested it has been using his blower for 1 month without issues.

We have never heard of any issues regarding this method and we have done several methods of testing it (Heat and abuse testing) before we started offering it as an option. The casting of the slits is very rough. Which makes the epoxy adhere much much better. If the prep work is performed in the correct manner there will be no issues. The epoxy will never get brittle or crack and there is no way for it to pop out because of pressure.

All of the following specs are in PSI

Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500° F

We use a commercial prduct very similar to cold weld. Which is very similar to JB weld but has a faster set up time.

[DnaProdigy]

its useless because it doesnt do anything other than run you the risk of destroying the engine when the epoxy decides to let go

Again, louder blower wine qualifies as something IMO. Noise modifications are in the same field as many other cosmetic or audible modification. As far as risk, i have yet to hear any stories which make this risk more then an extremely small plausibility. An actual person that had this happen or knows some one who it happened to just might make me reconsider.

Epoxy work that was requested by one of our customers is still going strong and it has been 8 months and 7 days since his order was placed.

Another customer that we had request it has been using his blower for 3 month without issues.

The last customer that requested it has been using his blower for 1 month without issues.

We have never heard of any issues regarding this method and we have done several methods of testing it (Heat and abuse testing) before we started offering it as an option. The casting of the slits is very rough. Which makes the epoxy adhere much much better. If the prep work is performed in the correct manner there will be no issues. The epoxy will never get brittle or crack and there is no way for it to pop out because of pressure.

All of the following specs are in PSI

Tensile Strength: 3960
Adhesion: 1800
Flex Strength: 7320
Tensile Lap Shear: 1040
Shrinkage: 0.0%
Resistant to: 500° F

We use a commercial prduct very similar to cold weld. Which is very similar to JB weld but has a faster set up time.

Thanks! This is great information. If i find the surface inside the slits to be too smothe as a result of my P&P i will make sure to score them to make the epoxy stick better.

[blueguy]

To each his own.

I like my motor.

[thomasj]

Ive done it. Never had an issue. Prep work is the key as it is always. Ive used it on a few TB,s including my northstar, I used it on my turbo 2300 ford when I ported through the intake runner I used it on my old Gen III silencer ports and inlet and Ill be doing it to the Gen V Im about to install. Ill be filling the silencer ports and filling the egr and the side vacuum port hole. Ive NEVER had any come out.


Also, The slots allow the blower to recirculate some the air its already moved. This is a waste and creates more heat. Filling the slots DOES make the blower more efficient. It may not be much but every bit helps with a highly modded car.

you dont see these slots on any other than OEM blowers. magnuson, whipple, Kenne Belle do not have them for a reason.

[TDCRacing]

Again, louder blower wine qualifies as something IMO. Noise modifications are in the same field as many other cosmetic or audible modification. As far as risk, i have yet to hear any stories which make this risk more then an extremely small plausibility. An actual person that had this happen or knows some one who it happened to just might make me reconsider.



Thanks! This is great information. If i find the surface inside the slits to be too smothe as a result of my P&P i will make sure to score them to make the epoxy stick better.

Yep. If it is smoothe be sure to scuff it up with a file like you said and make sure there is no left over oil or grease in there.

[DnaProdigy]

Is any name brand aluminum epoxy recommended?

Do i use the putty or the liquid?

Thanks!

[TDCRacing]

We use the 2 part epoxy that comes in the tubes.

[Bio248]

yep. youre supposed to "knead" it and then apply it and let it harden.

[Sabrewings]

To me, any chance of this happening would keep me from doing it. It only takes a little bit to come off and you're done. You have no secondary line of defense.

[Bio248]

intercoolers are for girls.

[Sabrewings]

intercoolers are for girls.

My next car is going to have one from the factory, so you can say what you like while I'm running circles around any GP on here.

[DnaProdigy]

Yea the kid in me wants to do it, but in reality of their is a problem id be screwed.

I guess ill just make my decision when my fancy new ported blower from Reptile gets here!!!