Thanks. I reckon it might have been in that range, although I did not have any luck finding it myself.
|
Are you talking about the plate that holds the ignition control module and the ignition coils?
Unfortunately I am not aware of the plate you are talking about and the wife has my car right now so I cannot go out and check. Anyway that you can take a pic and post it up?
Thank you Lee. That had popped in my head but I just wasnt sure and didnt want to go there without being sure.
I did find one piece of helpful information. It appears, at least according to all data, that the valve cover bolts are to be tightened to 89 inch lbs.
- Install the right valve rocker arm cover.
- Apply thread lock compound GM P/N 1234593 or equivalent to the valve rocker arm cover bolt threads. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
- Install the right valve rocker arm cover bolts.
- Tighten the right valve rocker arm cover bolts to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.) .
Thanks from me too!! I have painted valve covers to install. While I am at it I removed my alternator to have it chromed. Thats another issue, see my thread asking for help. Anyway I am doing fuel rails whil I have everything off. I was looking at it today after removing a bunch of things and wondered about the coil side. Glad I saw this thread. Good stuff!
You'll have to post up some pictures once you get all the work done.
Well, I was able to remove the vc, clean it, replace the gasket, added some rtv to hold it in place and finally installed it...I tried cleaning the vc but it marginally improved in looks...lol
I sure appreciated all the help from my Forum friends.
I was only able to replace the front vc gasket. It took forever. I looked at the rear vc and did not see it significantly leaking like the front one...The front was a mess...the vc bolts were all laden with oil...The vc bolts at the rear all dry and clean.
Should I go ahead and replace the rear one anyway? How much removing does one need to do for the rear vc?...It looks less tedious.
Last edited by Burgundyman; 02-05-2008 at 02:00 PM.
I did not have a small enough torque wrench but instead I used thread compound and snugged it by hand. Might have to invest in a small torque wrench. Yes, the black plate is the plug wire holder for 1, 3 and 5 wires. One of the tabs broke on mine as I lifted it. I am ordering a replacement from GM...It is about $2.50.
All data didnt specify, so I would believe it would be service-removable.
As for the rear valve cover gasket, I would personally go ahead and replace it. But Im also the sort of person that replaces headlights, fog lights and such in pairs even if only one is dead.
I look at it as if the front gasket failed, the rear cover has the same material and will be more prone to failure and you already have the gasket. So you might as well use it.
You are right...I am going ahead with its replacement...I bought a SNAP-ON Compact-Torque Ratchet, 40-200 in. lb., 3/8" drive on eBay (Excellent Price, $85 almost new (retails at $238 from SNAP-ON))....I also went ahead and bought Engine Tilter LIS48260 from Automotive Tools & Equipment. It was $37.99 (S&H add $9.99).
I used blue locktite on the threads - medium strength and it is service removable. I was able to get a spark plug wire holder from GM for $2.50...I am going to replace the spark plug wires while I am at it...
Any logical steps in approaching the removal of the rear vc, once I tilt the engine a bit forward...The front took me about five hours...I was documenting all the steps so as not to forget anything and at the same time, I can help others with details (i.e., socket sizes etc...)
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Tags for this Thread |