Thread: Starting Problems

Originally Posted by SahotaGTP

Hey everyone this is my first time posting on these boards.
I own a 1998 GTP and i bought it last summer, after i bought it i noticed that when you start it the car doesn't start right away but will take a good 3-4 secs to start but within 15 minutes of driving it around it will start normally. The wierd thing is that once in a while on a cold morning it will start normally.
Just wondering if anyone could please help me with this problem before i go out blowing money on it trying to get it fixed.
Thanks

That could be any number of things. Perhaps a general tune-up may help.

new plugs and plug wires, clean the MAF and IAC, new fuel and air filter.

Welcome to the forum.btw

Welcome to the community.

I would add to what Indeed posted that you check all the main electrical leads from the battery as well as check the battery out. Look for any corrosion and such around the connecting points. As well I would even go to Autozone and have them hook up their battery and alternator tester (can be done in the vehicle) and see what they have to say.

Maybe even replace the fuel filter. I have YET to buy a used car that had anything other than the OEM factory fuel filter on it. Seem people dont give that item much thought.

Let us know what all you do so we can kinda check them off mentally and continue to help out if any of these things dont do the trick. But I would be in agreement with Indeed with just the information you gave us, its probably in need of a very good tune up.

new spark plugs, wires, check the coil packs for corrosion....that in itself can take it a while to start.

fuel filter

battery

battery terminals

all the listed in the above posts are really good ideas.

You make a very good point about the corrosion on the coil packs. I posed this question once in the other forum as to why this seemed to happen. My #3 coil pack terminal was heavily corroded when I bought the car, my boss's 3800 Bonneville had a heavily corroded terminal #1. A co-worker of mine with an L67 Regal had a corroded terminal #3. And in my search for information on this it seems the #1 and #3 terminals are the ones that seem to alway be corroded.

now your talking Quantum physics!!!!!! polarity.....

Originally Posted by UR LOSN

now your talking Quantum physics!!!!!! polarity.....

Shows what you know, he wasnt talking about Quantum Physics, he was talking about the space time continuum.



Toasty, I used to work in electronic repair, component level even so you're speaking my language. Im sure UR LOSN can hang with us for a minute, LOL. (Just ribbin' ya, you're a pretty smart guy in my book)

I am curious though as to how you would come up with that idea (just kinda thinking out loud here). I know current has to flow positive to negative or negative to positive depending on your perspective, but with a spark plug, it shouldnt go back through the coils because the engine block would be the ground, plus there is no return path to the coils, at least through th spark plug anyway.

Now, having thought that out load, heres another proposition. We all (I assume we all do anyway) use anti-seize on the threads of the plugs. Could this be posing a problem withe current flow through the block? Maybe this is why some dont see any noticeable gains from ignition mods?

You know what Toasty, we may need to start a new thread so we dont hijack the guys search for help.

Originally Posted by SyntheticShield

Shows what you know, he wasnt talking about Quantum Physics, he was talking about the space time continuum.



Toasty, I used to work in electronic repair, component level even so you're speaking my language. Im sure UR LOSN can hang with us for a minute, LOL. (Just ribbin' ya, you're a pretty smart guy in my book)

I am curious though as to how you would come up with that idea (just kinda thinking out loud here). I know current has to flow positive to negative or negative to positive depending on your perspective, but with a spark plug, it shouldnt go back through the coils because the engine block would be the ground, plus there is no return path to the coils, at least through th spark plug anyway.

Now, having thought that out load, heres another proposition. We all (I assume we all do anyway) use anti-seize on the threads of the plugs. Could this be posing a problem withe current flow through the block? Maybe this is why some dont see any noticeable gains from ignition mods?

You know what Toasty, we may need to start a new thread so we dont hijack the guys search for help.

let me dig up the info i'm referencing, and I'll start a new post....

new thread here
http://www.grandprixforums.net/f18/d...html#post16980

Cool, I'll be looking for it.

surprised no one mentioned it, but i would put my money on the FPR leaking. pull the vacum line off, and see if you smell/see fuel. i bet you will. it starts fine on a cold morning, because the fuel in the vacumn line evaporated.