Best option for hood clearance?

[Keko]

I installed a full stack intercooler and have some clearance issues because of the hood scoops/heat exchangers (special edition). The hood closes, but it's under tension and is squishing a few things under the hood like the BPV.

What is the best solution? I ordered cradle spacers but I've read a few times on the forum to avoid that if possible because it adds strain on axles. I also saw some people run a half set of spacers, but didn't find out which half and why.

Can someone please give a bit of advice or a recommendation? Stock ride height, stock dogbones.

[Scottydoggs]

what ic you have? cause i know another member here with a 40 th and his fits and clears the vents. hes on a gen 5 too.

i got the ic ed makes and sells here, its a 2.25 thick and i rub the liner a bit with the bbv the vac tree up top and the plug wire holder on the snout bolt.

[blueguy]

Just out of curiosity, how are your lower motor/trans mounts? I do know the ZZP poly mounts tend to sit a smidge lower in the sub-frame.

Cradle spacers don't change the axle geometry that much. I wouldn't be worried about the spacers hurting the axles at all.

[Keko]

@Scottydoggs, I have ZZP/WBody full stack IC core. I haven't tried removing the hood liner yet, but I don't think that will give enough clearance. I'm pretty sure the motor will slam the hood if it downshifts hard under load. I've been driving it timidly until I get the clearance sorted out.

@Blueguy I have ZZP solid trans mount and zzp solid engine mount.

[Scottydoggs]

what fuel rail you running? zzp modded rail with the line a top the blower? i know if i had that rail my hood would not shut.

[Keko]

I have the zzp billet fuel rail. The line clears fine, but then I have the wire harness on top of that. (both are going through the groove between s/c and throttle body on top)

I'm mostly concerned because the hood has to be closed pretty hard to fully latch, and when I'm popping the hood it's some extra under tension. I have to pull the release latch quite a bit harder than I used to. If I hit a hard downshift everything is going to press into the hood pretty hard.

BPV - this is what I'm most concerned with. it actually pops out of the 2 hole groove that holds it into the mount bracket because it's making contact at some point. not sure if this happens right when I close hood, or when the motor rocks around while driving. it still functions though even when it's not resting where it should, but I don't think it's happy.

Vacuum lines on top, and spark plug wire brackets also rub (bracket only not the wires), but I don't care as much about those.

[Scottydoggs]

what did you do with the hood latch when you installed the fmhe?

if your not seeing dents in the foam liner the latch might need some adjusting. the way i mounted mine i had to cut the bracket, then i welded it to a bar that the fmhe bolts to.



you also have the rubber turn stops, try turning them down a 1/2 turn. might loosen the hood up some if is not denting the liner.

[Keko]

I didn't do anything with the hood latch, wasn't even aware that might have to be changed. According to the zzp page for the kit, the grand prix is direct bolt on for the fmhe (although is probably isn't directed toward a limited edition with the hood vents).

The only dents I see in the liner are from stuff on top of the motor pressing into it (like vacuum lines, spark plug wire holders). The hood tension is definitely coming from the hood resting on the motor itself, I don't think it's the latch.

[Scottydoggs]

ok so the fmhe is not installed yet? just the core?

you know this thing that goes in the bumper.

[Keko]

ok so the fmhe is not installed yet? just the core?

you know this thing that goes in the bumper.

fmhe is installed. for grand prixs zzp offers a dual pass heat exchanger that bolts right onto the bottom of the crash bar.

[idrivejunk]

I think I would remove the hood insulator and see how it shuts. With that gone, there may be no interference. I mean, the folks who make the parts probably figured you'd already have tossed the insulator. FWIW, you can loosely wad up foil on top of the engine then close the hood to smush the foil, to see what is how close. Might help. I don't know, I haven't messed with ICs. But I have a pair of those 40th scoops if cutting the hood for them will give clearance!

[Scottydoggs]

clay would work nice too and give a real mush factor you can measure. like you know its a 1 inch tall block before you shut the hood.

[Scottydoggs]

then theres always hood latch adjustment, and people have put a washer under the hinges to lift the rear of the hood a little bit.

[Scottydoggs]

you might want to re think that mounting. it can be torn off real easy when like that, its gonna stick down past your bumper.

high and tight.



i have a frozen boost 101 fmhe, its got tabs off both sides. bottom is bolted to the very bottom of the rad support.


its tucked up behind the bumper.



it will never hit a parking stop or curb or speed bump ever like this.

[Keko]

Yeah it definitely hangs down more than the bumper, I'll just have to be careful. Maybe eventually I'll end up with a bigger fmhe in a better location, but I'm done spending money and time on the car for now. I've only had it for 6 months or so and I've been constantly modding it. I still have a front sway bar and ported s/c case to install.

I wasn't even planning on ICing but zzp black friday snagged me. I'm only running a 3.3 pulley with this since cali 91 octane is pure ****. I don't think I need a bigger fmhe yet, although it obviously wouldn't hurt.

[Scottydoggs]

if this is your fmhe in this thread, it can be lifted up, you just need to make a bar to hold it up higher.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...BS-Intercooler