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in bulley flows defense, he deleted his posts, but i could read them, the guy who bought those heads had more work done to them after the fact. iirc he recommended he not do what he wanted with what ever cam rockers set up or some crap. and theres the result.
how true that is, idk really.
you can check that easy enough tho, just grab the spring top and see if it moves when pushed on side to side. the seal would also be trashed if the stem was to move that much like in the pic posted.
Honestly I just posted to pic to illustrate why it could be smoking and not have a damaged seal. Obviously if it was as bad as in the pic the the seal would be toast as well, but I have seen worn out valve guides that caused the engine to smoke but didn't show see the damage to the seal.
Jeff
Im having a similar issue with my build as well. No problems for like 1000 miles now if I swat the gas it puffs out a small amount of smoke. Im still at a loss as to what it is. #5 plug was totally fouled/covered in oil. But the strange thing is that the engine has no performance issues. Good luck.
Back from the dead.
Removed the LIM and the biggest affected cyl (#2) is dry at least on the intake side. I'd expect a bad head or bad valve seal when I get it off and to the machine shop. Per the last diag I hope rings can ruled out. But too much oil could have killed them. But I don't know. Besides that the entire LIM is slightly damp with oil. Is there anyway to prevent this? I have a hose from the oil cap to the air intake tube after the maf.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pseda2ipjg.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pslojvutmq.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psa1brzotl.jpg
Run a catch can.
It may help but likely you'll still see a minor oil film in the intake.
I used to have a lot of oil like that in the intake. A catch can helped out a decent amount.
More updates!!! YAY.........
Here is a video of what all my exhaust valves sound like when air is hooked up EXCEPT #2 which as you see is SOAKED with oil from the valve seal. The spring is definitely deformed. What is everyone's opinion on the seat it self? They were all ground down to accept I high lift cam at least I hope they were. But is there too much gap between the stem and the actual seat??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBlxu1J3zXo
As you can see #2 is not the only affected cylinder that is getting oil seepage...
LOL I cant believe I just missed this. But literally any cylinder that's on the exhaust side that's wet with oil the spring is not perfectly true it is deformed to some extent but #2 was the worst!
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psdipyq6pj.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pslwsur2gr.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psicpr5zby.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psjhggj9sb.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7lmnbhmi.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psbvroaijo.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pssfgfqnvk.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pssb40agya.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pskayvb8l4.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pssx52hxy6.jpg
My next dilemma is should I use the valve seals again from intense "Machined (0.500")" or the ZZP ones? The intense one has a spring while the zzp one has a heavy duty looking band per pictures on the site.
in your vid there, try tapping the top of the valve stem to seat the valve better, see if it still leaks air. if it still leaks it could be bent, or a maybe even you chipped a piston and messed up the valve.
I tried that and no change. I sent the heads to a race engine shop to have them fully go through them and find anymore issues if any.