Thread: Fixing my oil dredger

Results 1 to 4 of 4

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1 Fixing my oil dredger 
    SE Level Member Prixer97's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Fargo, ND
    Posts
    92
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Well pretty sure my 3.8 is leaking oil from every possible seal/gasket. I'm hoping to get some tips and suggestions on gasket brands (namely Felpro/Delco) and any other parts I should consider replacing while I'm in there or tools to make said job easier. From what I can tell, my valve cover gaskets are leaking for sure (rear mostly), and possibly pan gasket, my coolant has pretty good amount of sludge so LIM or head gasket as well. Have some blow-by but thats for another day. Cant really confirm the oil pan leak but I plan to change all motor/trans mounts to poly pieces anyway, so I figure opportune time since its a PITA. I also need a water pump since it too has a bit of play. Then I figured I should probably do the timing cover gasket, main seal (SKF), as well as timing set. Car has 165K so oil pump as well.. Cant decide on gear set, dont know if I dare chance Ultra power lol. Dont know the difference between the solid cam sprockets vs machined (holes), is holes=cast solid=steal? Typically I go comp or cloyes. Im trying to make my dollar count but not sacrifice quality.



    My questions..


    1) Do I even consider Felpro? I've used felpro on other projects w/o issue but when its GM I usually favor Delco unless its a non revised/improved part. Is there any other brands to consider (zzp,victor)?

    2) What else am I gonna need or should I consider/inspect? Injector seals etc

    3) I read that people use RTV on the pan gasket, is this really necessary, is the gasket reusable w/o rtv, do you let it set up a bit b4 tightening? Other then the corners of the LIM rails where else might I need RTV? Should I use ultra grey?

    4) Does my intake and/or block have locating holes for rail gasket?

    5) Should I have my cooling system flushed? (fear plugged htr core, reverse flush but still)


    Parts list


    Valve cover

    ACDELCO 24503937 $18.68
    FEL-PRO VS50465R $18.30

    UIM
    FEL-PRO MS95744 $7.97

    LIM
    ACDELCO 89017825 $44.99
    FEL-PRO MS98014T $50.79

    Timing cover
    FEL-PRO TCS45971 $5.81 (incl main, water/oil pump, misc o rings)
    ACDELCO 12587003 $9.08 (cover gasket only)

    Main seal
    SKF 19387 $18.00 (chicago rawhide)

    Timing set
    ULTRA-POWER C3214 $26.79
    DNJ ENGINE COMPONENTS TK3182 $42.79 (inc damper/tensioner)
    SEALED POWER KT3381SA2 $70.99
    CLOYES C3215 $81.79
    MAHLE / CLEVITE 93215 $96.79

    Tensioner ACDELCO 24503893 $19.90

    Oil pump kit
    SEALED POWER 22453572 $33.89
    DNJ OPK3143 $38.89

    Pan gasket
    FEL-PRO OS30767R $31.79
    ACDELCO 12587964 $63.79

    Water pump
    ACDELCO 252693 $24.79 (aftermarket design)
    ACDELCO 251718 $87.89

    Last edited by Prixer97; 04-03-2016 at 03:03 PM.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  2. #2 Re: Fixing my oil dredger 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,927
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    pull the engine out for all this, then get a lower conversion gasket kit, its the front of the engine and rear cover, pan, seals, water pump, timing cover for like 30 bucks, off rockauto.

    then the metal magnum lim gasket kit for like 30 bucks off rockauto. its got injector o rings t stat gasket sc o rings elbow o rings and a tube of rtv.

    the pan gasket you need to to rtv the block, and the pan, then put the gasket in the middle of a rtv sandwich. or it could leak again.

    take the oil sensor out the pan before you take the pan off, or it will break for you.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

  3. #3 Re: Fixing my oil dredger 
    SE Level Member Prixer97's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Fargo, ND
    Posts
    92
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    pull the engine out for all this, then get a lower conversion gasket kit, its the front of the engine and rear cover, pan, seals, water pump, timing cover for like 30 bucks, off rockauto.

    then the metal magnum lim gasket kit for like 30 bucks off rockauto. its got injector o rings t stat gasket sc o rings elbow o rings and a tube of rtv.

    the pan gasket you need to to rtv the block, and the pan, then put the gasket in the middle of a rtv sandwich. or it could leak again.

    take the oil sensor out the pan before you take the pan off, or it will break for you.
    Probably not a bad idea removing the motor. I just realized the rear main is a one piece and doesnt require removing the crank. I also didnt know how prone the rear covers are for leaking. Ive never pulled a transfers motor or any EFI motor period, so its a fear of the unknown lol. Only thing then, is I have to fight with exhaust bolts and cooler lines, all the sensors, etc, but Would make for a easier and thorough job. At that point Id rather just rebuild the motor, but thats out of the budget atm. Do you got a link to the conversion gasket kit?
    Reply With Quote  
     

  4. #4 Re: Fixing my oil dredger 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,927
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    valve covers can leak also, i use felpros with new grommets.

    the whole deal is much easier to re gasket engine out, bust your crank bolt free before the engine comes out. in case you need to red neck starter it off.

    and you get to clean it up real good and paint it if you want.

    good time to install headers or a cam or new springs rockers and so on while it out too.

    with i had more time with mine out, i would have cleaned and painted the engine bay up.


    and once the harness is off the top of the engine its just nuts and bolts like any old school engine.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

Similar Threads

  1. Fixing 4th
    By Cummins97 in forum 1997-2007 4 speed Automatic (4T65E) (4T65E-HD)
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 04-23-2012, 07:13 AM
  2. Hud fixing
    By 03limitedgtp in forum Audio, Security & Visual Electronics
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-05-2011, 11:29 PM
  3. Fixing dents.
    By Odi in forum How To Write-Ups/Tech Tips
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 09-18-2011, 09:41 PM
  4. i need help fixing this problem i have thanks
    By sca555 in forum General Tech Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-06-2010, 01:26 PM
  5. fixing hud???
    By blowfishRus6 in forum General Tech Discussion
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 12-23-2008, 10:45 AM
Bookmarks
Bookmarks
Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •