Thread: Specific Repair Questions: Throttle Cables, LIMs, and Throttle body.

Hello from ice cold Chicago. Gonna be taking advantage of the upcoming long weekend to do some work on my 2000 GTP. Have a few questions below... and some history

Experiencing a few problems. See my original post here:
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...n-factory-LIMs!

Still dealing with these 2 issues. Jerky acceleration and overheating. Heat in the cabin is sporadic... 70% of the time not working. Fans are working fine, hoses are fine, heater core has been flushed with hose, radiator too...etc. ALL that easy stuff has been knocked out. It's not the gauge, its not the t-stat, believe me. I'm certain it is the water pump and looking to replace it. Since LIMs are stock at 235,000 miles, gonna do those too. I've been reading and researching for months now, but have some lingering questions.

Questions:
1. I don't want to mess with the throttle cables and assembly, but I do want to clean the throttle body. Can clean the throttle body with cables attached and the whole thing off to the side?
2. Do I need to remove all the sensors before I clean the throttle body?
3. Is brake cleaner the best thing to use?
4. For the plenum and throttle body gasket... Is it OK to use the sticky gasket spray first and then apply the actual gasket? I feel like that will ensure a better seal and restrict movement of the actual gasket. Or should those gaskets be applied dry?
5. Because I am applying thread sealant to the LIM bolts, is it recommended to go another 1/5 turn over the torque spec? or NO?
6. Do I apply thread sealant to the SC bolts?
7. Valve cover gaskets were done 1.5yrs ago. Not doing those. Do I still need to remove the coil packs?

Gonna start work this Saturday morning 01-16-2016. Appreciate any feedback.
Thanks.

cables can stay on the tb, and just clean it in the bay of the car. they do come off rather easy tho. remove the maf only. brake cleaner works, or carb cleaner.

install gaskets dry, theres locating dowels its not moving on you.

clean bolts, coat with new sealant, and tq to 13 fp. sc bolts no sealant.

the water pump's 4 long bolts need thread sealant also. install the w/p gasket dry too.

dont forget to buy new coolant elbows, you'll need one for the top at least.

coil bracket can stay on.

when ready to re install the lim, put a dab of rtv in the 4 corners, then lay the gaskets in place, then another dab and smear it over the edge of both the rubber and metal gaskets then drop the lim on.

clean the injector holes real good too before installing the rail and injectors, ( Qtips and brake cleaner) oil the o rings before installing them too.

Ten-Four on that. Not messing with the coil packs and cables should save some time and gray hairs. You did it 2-3 hours... will take me 2-3 days. But time I have... I'm very familiar with tools and such, just not a mechanic, per se. But I have done my research and feel pretty good about this repair. Looks like water pump will be pretty easy to do with the SC and LIM taken off. I might add additional questions to this post as I go along. About to open a photobucket account as well. Thanks again for your advice.

water pump will be no harder or easier. make sure you have a t 55 torx bit on hand for the lower sc idler pulley, some have a bolt, some have a torx. check that so your not caught with your pants down. it needs to come off so one of the long w/p bolts can come out. you also need to unbolt the p/s pump to clear a long bolt on the other side.

it only seems like a huge job when you look at it. once the fuel rail and wire harness is un hooked, its just a hand full of bolts.

dont forget to drain your coolant too. you can suck the rad dry, or pull the lower hose.

Might need a new head gasket now too?

I bought all the parts at Advanced last night. Getting there was a nightmare. It's 1 mile away and I overheated immediately. The car has been curbed for a few days, but fired it up to get the parts and drive it to where I will be working on it this weekend. Before I left I checked the radiator and added about 2-3 inches of coolant. The store is a 1 mile drive, I overheated when I was about 75% there. The needle blew right past the 210 mark and kept climbing. Had to pull over and shut off the engine, the needle was 2 ticks below the red. I wait for 10 minutes, was thinking it was the t-stat since the temp. climbed so fast. The top radiator hose felt like it was going to burst! That hose was hotter then hell too. I get to Advanced, I overheated again in that last 25% of the trip. I buy the parts, and begin taking apart the t-stat housing in the parking lot. I get it off and the entire block is bone dry of coolant!! ??!! I fill the LIM up to the lip, put in new t-stat and lock it up. Didn't overheat on me as I drove it to where I will be fixing it, but still climbed up to the 75% mark at one point. I am writing all this to say that I'm concerned that I cooked the head gaskets. Should I be changing those? On some posts you (ScottyDoggs) have advised folks "not to touch the heads". But....since I'm taking apart the top half of the engine, should I just do the head gaskets as well? Plus I'm at 235,000 miles and hope to keep on going. Are the head gaskets really only "10 bolts away" once you get the LIM off? I have been hunting for a good write up on here for head gasket repair but cannot find it. Is there such a write up on here? What do you think Scotty?

Thanks.

if it didnt over heat on the way home maybe the t stat was locked up. you can drop it in a pot of water and then turn the heat on, if you got a meat thermometer you can tell when the water hits about 195 and drop the t stat in the hot water, it should open up. if it dont open its broken.

id do a compression test before i took the heads off. its a few more then 10 bolts, but you are right there. you need new head bolts and tq degree wheel for the bolt stretching part. and a new gasket.

another test for a bad head gasket is to start the car rad cap off, then rev the engine some, when you let off the gas if bubbles show inside the rad you got a issue.

theres a few threads with tq specs nothing really head r and r done tho.

pull up on one corner at a time. it should lift up. once you feel it lift a little the injectors will pop out.

if your a gen 3 theres a nut on top the fuel rail into the blower, in case you missed that. that will keep it from coming off for sure.

you can spray some lube on them, if they wiggle any it should work in there some and help.

Originally Posted by CHI2000GTP

Just can't pull the SOBs out. Sprayed it down with lube... Not coming out. Calling it quits for tonight. What are my options if the bastards don't budge? I will research as well. Can I pry them out?

Thanks.

you got the top bolt removed in the rail to the top of the blower? its right in the cross brace on the rail where the disconnects are. iirc its a round bolt. it unscrews.

its round on my old l67. then theres the 4 nuts on studs at all 4 corners.

Would be funny if he didn't remove that.

i know first hand it wont come off with that bolt on there lol but the injectors did pull some then stopped coming out. then i took a step back and stared at it, ding, wtf dummy.....take that off. rail came right off.

funny how you remember your first little fights with stuff.

if the 4 10 mm nuts are off give it a good firm tug, theres nothing but o rings holding it.

I've used a pry bar before to pop the rails before, where it's doubled up on the ends. Just use leverage against the valve cover or intake manifold or whatever and just push it up.

They are never in there that tight that a quick pop can't make em come out.