I wouldnt even bother with the bypass, you'd gain nothing from messing with it.
Toss some copper Autolite 104's in it too, for 12 bucks it's cheap and can help you.
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I wouldnt even bother with the bypass, you'd gain nothing from messing with it.
Toss some copper Autolite 104's in it too, for 12 bucks it's cheap and can help you.
So what Pulley am I gonna get the most from?
the problem you will run into by running a smaller pulley is the compensation the pcm will force into the engine because of the predetination. only way I can think of to get around that is to take the knock sensors off or something like that. no idea how long the engine will survive.
The problem is at what point does it retard so much timing thats it's no longer even making power and losing it.
They already knock from the factory, adding more boost will make it worse. Adding race fuel will lower the knock for sure but you are still on a fine line with stock everything else.
I mean you could go ahead and put a 3.0 or 3.2 on there and let it rip, but it might only last 1 pass and chip a piston.
Wasn't there a guy on here running a gtp with a 3.1 pulley with nothing but straight exhaust race gas and a tune?
Race gas, 3.2, 100 wet shot of nitrous and 12's if you get any traction.
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Got a 3.3 pulley ordered. Planning on race gas, methanol injection, and pray for traction. Still on the fence about the nitrous.
Any questions on the methanol injection? You could use the methanol for nitrous fueling if needed. Just start with 2x the normal fuel jetting..
I'm open to hear what you have to say about it. It's gonna be a throw together deal. As that is the point of this whole thing. LOL
if I was going to combine nitrous with methanol, I would do it in a series, meaning to inject the nitrous first, and then to inject the methanol. the combustion chamber probably isn't big enough for all the air, fuel, methanol and nitrous that could be injected.
If you can't find a cheap used kit, find a cheap 60 psi pump. Most kits have 150-300 psi pumps, and need more expensive hose and fittings. At 60 psi, you can use Lowe's or Home Depot push to connect hose and fittings. The fuel side of the nitrous kit should be NPT, so you can screw into it.
You could run a nozzle for just methanol, and then use a T and connect to the nitrous at a higher pressure.
The newer aquatec pumps are recirculation style pumps, and will be better at keeping pressure even. If I was serious about methanol on fuel, I would use the Aquatec pump, turn the pressure down to 160 psi. Activate pump with nitrous arming, and hook directly to the solenoid on the fuel side of nitrous.
Craigslist is your friend for used stuff. I have some parts lying around. PM me if you are interested.
Absouletly not! That is going to wreck the engine quick if the nitrous gets there first it will fry the engine instantly you can't add an oxidizer without enough fuel to burn it. Oxygen is too friendly and will instantly oxidize anything it can quick fast and in a hurry (milliseconds).Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtMarshal
Jeff
the target afr at WOT is what 11's or 12's? so 8-9% fuel. target meth flow is 10-30% of 8-9% of fuel depending on meth %. It would take alot of nitrous.Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtMarshal
Pfft, nothing a 100 shot won't take care of.
That's a lot of bottle for a 3800.
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Good info guys keep it coming!
Still having trouble getting it to idle. Seems to be worse when warm. When your driving and let off it dies.
If borrowed parts are allowed,i have a 2.8 pulley you can use. Needs E85 tho.
Massive vacuum leak or a sensor problem with maybe the MAF/MAP/IAC is a guess.
I think I'm gonna try a IAC. Thanks for the offer, but I just put my 3.3 on. I would have maybe took you up on that. When it dies, it sounds like it starts sucking air bad.....