what do you think of this.. a hand full of others have done it but with jb weld... anyways those guys claim it make it louder wich it may , but now im hearing there more for moving heat then sound....what u think?
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what do you think of this.. a hand full of others have done it but with jb weld... anyways those guys claim it make it louder wich it may , but now im hearing there more for moving heat then sound....what u think?
I have no first hand experience, but I've read that the differences of heat expansion may cause the weld to pop out and then as Bio mentioned go to bad places. However I thought someone else actually did this and it was still holding...Good luck, I sincerely hope this works with no problems.
I believe someone said that these are for sound, and it came from Eaton's docs. And those that fill them have had good luck with RTV, that way, if it falls out, it isn't taking the engine out.
i'd think that even with expansion, if it's welded properly, that wouldnt be an issue. .... if it werent welded properly, and the fill didnt mesh with the surrrounding area, then i could see it "pop" out.
So are you saying that removing those makes it louder and/or for less heat? or keeping them makes it louder and less heat? I am lil' slow, haha.
I thought ar cases were like a quarter inch thick? I could see if it was like 1/8" warping easily, but if you knew what you were doing I wouldn't think it would warp.
I see what spot he is talkin about, but I do not understand if he is saying take it away or keep it.
Well, given the Gen 5 M90 slits are only about 40% of what the Gen 3's are, I doubt that there will be much issue with it if any. I would have been terrified to weld them shut, but apparently that is not that much of an issue.
Also, when I first ran across this being done, I thought to myself, instead of using liquid steel, jb weld and so on, why not take a piece of 1/8" thick by 1/4" wide aluminum bar stock and only partially cover the slits to about the same length as those on the Gen 5. You could drill an tap you a couple holes to hold the bar stock in place with some thread locker and you should be good to go. Id be sure to countersink and debur the inside of the hole where the rotors spin, but other than that I think it would be golden.
Any video clips of this mod
and was wondering just how hot this is going to get
closing up the air way like that?
This is the first i am hearing about this
so sounds interesting... More info..
well i plan to do alot more porting to the blower so i dont see it taking away that much efficiency(spl?) , as for warping , the guy who welded it and myself check it on my intake , lays flat ... and according to him that weld will never break, it will break arround the weld before the weld its self will break or crack, its all aluminum and thats what he weld with was aluminum, my car hopefully should be done by march so ill have some videos and more info then, but for now ill be posting update pics of the porting im doing.....
whitcomb, would I be asking too much if I wanted some detail pics of your work? Inlet, outlet, casing, rotor housing and so on. In my mind, it would make sense that if you close off the slits you could open the porting up more, but thats in my own reasoning, the physics and real life application of it may not line up with my reasoning.
But Id like some pics of the whole thing as I may see if I can find a spare case to work on and see how it all goes. Its not a huge amount of work to pull off the blower, so it could be an easy project to work on.
I didn't get from the orginal post that this was actually aluminum welded closed. Nice job, if it lays flat and the rotors dont bind when all is reassembled. I didn't even think about it not sitting flat when mentioning the warp. More of my concern was rotor clearances.
Good work.
would like to hear about before and after...
only thing that sucks is im doin alot of shtufff @ once to do a before and after compare, i may slap it on my buddys simple 3.4 setup just for "facts" and we can do a before and after scan ...
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