Thread: 2005 Grand Prix - temp gauge/cooling fan issues.

Originally Posted by spinhunt

So an easy fix to their blatant disregard for engineering issues is, "If the thermistor is missing YOU will require a new cable." They are not willing to replace the cable with thermistor free of charge to those who are having this issue because of their design flaw?

How can I install the cable myself instead of paying labour fees? Is it possible?

I wouldn't worry about the cord really. Like myself, you're just gonna need to monitor the temp outside a little more if you are going to plug in your car. If the forecast calls for it to warm up overnight then i would leave it unplugged. If you do leave it plugged in and it's definitely warmer than -18 just unplug it and don't start your car for a half hour or so.

Regarding GM replacing your gauge cluster, i would definitely make a stink about that. I'm not sure exactly where you brought your car but i think they should have been able to figure this one out instead of replacing the whole damn cluster! I'd like to think they didn't try and pull a fast one on you but you never know i guess. If i were you i would go back and see if you can work something out.

Hi all, I have a 2008 GP and I ran into this problem last week. I took the car to the dealer and they said after they fixed it NOT to plug in the block heater when the car is still warm, put it on a timer to come on 3 hours after you park. Personally I think that's CRAP, it might be the truth but it is CRAP. There we go again GM with their reliable Electrical BS.

hey everyone i have a 2006 grand prix and i am having this same problem the only thing i find weird is that my check engine light does not sure if it stores the code and doesnt turn on the engine light. and also i have a code reader but am not close to home now will the dealer have to delete this code.

I have a 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix and the other day while I was driving to Wpg. the temperature gage drops to nothing. I got out and checked everything and I could not see any problems. When I turned the key back on, the radiator fans both cut in. I tried to start the car but it would not start unless i gave it some gas. When it did start it was running at a very high RPM. I drove it back home and took it to the dealer the next day. After they checked it they told me that because I had changed the block heater cord end that had set off a code that caused my problems. I found this hard to believe so they explained it this way. There is a switch of some kind in the plug in end that only allows the block heater to work when the temperature drops below -15 Celsius. Because the block heater was working all night, when I went to start the car that set off a code because of the conflicting sensors sending information to the computer. I am having a hard time to believe this but I guess it makes sense to someone. The dealer also told me that the Government made them put that sensor in the block heater cords of all their vehicles. I guess I will have a new cord installed ($168.00 ) and hope that this will fix my problems. Has anyone else had the similar problem and if so what is the cure? Does GM have a fix for this problem or do we have to take the car in each time this happens????

Sounds like the same problem. OBDII Code readers have come down in price and may be a more convenient solution. You can read and clear the code yourself without the trip to the dealer. I don't plug the block heater in unless I'm sure the temperature will stay colder than -20. Even with the correct block heater cord I've had the code set when the block heater is plugged in and it's warmer than -20. This indicates that the setting in the computer and the temperature sensor in the cord do not match. I'm not sure if this problem will be fixed by replacing the block heater cord. It's a good question to ask the dealer and post back.

@SyntheticShield

and then accepting that when you're wrong, you're wrong and in this case I was big time.

You technically werent wrong, because you suggested the CTS was bad, and really what's going on is that the conflicting readings are causing the PCM to believe the CTS is bad in the first place... leading to symptoms of a bad CTS.

So you just called it right for the wrong reason