in that one how to it shows them taking the exhaust cross over off. theres no reason to do that, you can get to the erg bolt with a extension off your ratchet.
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03-04-2014
in that one how to it shows them taking the exhaust cross over off. theres no reason to do that, you can get to the erg bolt with a extension off your ratchet.
03-04-2014
I'd just wait it out, closely monitoring the oil cap. Heck some people get that much yellow sludge under cap from just normal moisture from winter driving. I did last winter, my gaskets are aluminum and perfectly sealed.
03-04-2014
My other concern is popping it open and finding passageways clogged with sludge from coolant and oil mixing.
03-04-2014
Also, I searched for Moisture in Oil Cap and it looks identical to what I'm seeing. I checked my cap today and saw nothing at all... Could it be I don't have a problem at all? I did notice some oil pooling right above the valve covers however.Originally Posted by 02NavyBlue
03-04-2014
clean the cap see how fast it builds back up over the next week. some moisture is normal. especially if you do lots of short trips.
if your oil is only oil, and your not loosing coolant, it can wait a month till it gets warmer out.
03-04-2014
Well, my commute from work to home is all 5 minutes, so it doesn't have time to fully warm up. I just went and checked it after getting home from work +15 minutes of cooling off. The cap is clean, dipstick comes out looking like regular oil, looking into the crankcase it looks fine. However a quick check under my radiator cap shows this :
Also there was some, dark gunk stuck the the underside of the radiator cap... Verdict?
03-04-2014
Dex sludge, most likely from air contamination, should flush it out when the weather gets nice.
03-04-2014
do this a flush before the lim job. just flush it, after the lim job is done add the new coolant. if you want to, flush it to clear water, add a cleaner, then drive it some, then re flush. then do the lim job, then add new coolant.
how to flush the coolant.
remove the t stat, put the t stat housing back on, take the upper hose off the radiator, then push it down to the ground to a bucket or let it fly.
get your garden hose out, put it in the rad turn it on, then fire up the car, let it run till clear water pumps out the top hose.
then turn the hose off, run the car till no more water comes out the upper hose. then turn it off.
put your t stat back in, with new gasket, the upper hose back on.
now take 1 gallon of full strength green antifreeze, not the 50/50 crap. ( parts store cheap green is fine to use) dump the whole gallon in the radiator, fire up the car, fill the rad with hose water till its full. top as needed till its ready to be bled of air. it will burp and take coolant as the water in the block warms up the t stat opens up for a few seconds till cold coolant hits it and it shuts again.
now to bleed the air out, let it idle rad cap off till the fans turn on, (when the fans are on the temp is over 195 deg, the t stat is wide open) then open the bleeder screw on top the t stat housing a few turns till a steady stream of coolant comes out the hole, shut the screw, top off the rad. cap it.
done.
03-04-2014
Hmmm....so maybe I don't have a problem after all? Sounds like a good idea would to be clean the engine bay up and remove any standing oil/water from puddles and then monitor it. I know it's a cardinal sin but I've never cleaned under the hood of my GP. What all besides the battery needs to be covered so I can spray it with degreaser and hose it down?
03-04-2014
Thanks for the write up, I've been wanting to get rid of the Dex Cool regardless.
03-04-2014
nothing needs to be covered, and cleaning your engine right before the lim job is nice, cause who wants to work on a dirty engine. do that a few days before hand.
pretty much if you never did them you should do them. its just a matter of time before the gaskets fail and kill your engine. seems like a cluster f of work, but just about all of us have done it. its considered maintenance. it only needs to be done once.
mine.
lim back on
and all back together.
03-04-2014
Really? Don't even need to cover the battery or alternator? Just pop the hood, spray the entire damn thing with degreaser and let it sit and then hose it off?
03-04-2014
pretty much, if you have the stock air box. its water proof. only thing you should avoid a full blast at is the alternator. it can get wet, just dont soak it down.
all the plugs under the hood have weather pack seals. nothing to worry about.
get the car up on ramps, spray the bottom first,, then spray the top down. wait and hose it all off, bottom first of course. so your not laying in a puddle right away.
if you have a air compressor spray any standing water off the engine, then fire it up and take it for a ride to warm and dry it up.
03-04-2014
Alrighty, well I've already bought all the parts, might as well go ahead and do it. This weekend is supposed to be nice, I'll start Saturday with the ability to carry over to Sunday if I fall behind. So my run down is clean the engine up, flush the cooling system to clean water, add a cleaner, drive it. Drain and flush to empty. Do the LIM job and then fill 'er up.
03-04-2014
i feel the confidence growing.....correct ^^^^
03-05-2014
I got the chance to dig around under the hood today and look around. Oil cap is clean, dipstick is clean. However there is standing oil sitting on between the valve cover and the lim...
03-05-2014
add valve covers gaskets to the list of parts.
03-05-2014
It seems like if the valve cover gaskets were bad the oil would go to the lowest point which would be the other side of the valve cover down toward the exhaust wouldn't it?
03-05-2014
it can leak both ways. the oil splashes all over under the cover. or the lim bolts are leaking or the injector o rings. clean it all up. then keep a eye on it, best way to track leaks down.
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