Thread: How to get est. 250whp in a N/A GT?

Current Setup:
K&N Intake
180* drilled t-stat
ZZP Pcm
2.5 Custom Exhaust the whole way to the muffs including the u-bend delete

Ideas for future setup:
HV3
ST1 TB or ST2
3" DP
P-logs
XP cam
Double roller set
105# springs
Colder Plugs no certain which yet.

Idk what else... Let me know your thoughts!
Also which tranny mods?
3000 stall?
3.29 gears?

At first I was doing the whole top swap / ssm90 now im not so certain lol

why would you want an xp on an l36? there are probably better cams if youre not planning on any power adders.

also, TB is a useless mod unless you get an l26 UIM and port it out so it matches the outlet of the TB. and even then youll probably get 5 hp out of it. you dont need a double roller for an xp, either.

and in order to get 250whp n/a, youre going to need to spray it. youre going to have a hell of a time getting it otherwise.

Originally Posted by Bio248

why would you want an xp on an l36? there are probably better cams if youre not planning on any power adders.

and in order to get 250whp n/a, youre going to need to spray it. youre going to have a hell of a time getting it otherwise.

Lol I know hahaha the XP is in case I do go S/C later on both GT2 and XP have close to the same lift etc.

Double roller is for my hatred of the dampener...

Also if 250 is too high Ive seen 220whp Im just wondering how high I can go without FI

Originally Posted by Bio248

also, TB is a useless mod unless you get an l26 UIM and port it out so it matches the outlet of the TB.

Far from worthless (changes to my MAF table are proof). The stock TB had become quite the choke point for me in the top end. And the stock UIM is much larger than the TB, so no porting is necessary. You can tell just by the way the gasket lays in there. It's not like the L67 TB and M90.

i have no idea how high you can go, but i know once you start getting everything done and you have to resort to little baby petty mods like underdrive pullies to add up youre going to be thinking heavily into the FI side.

i see you on the double roller, i got one too on a rocker car.

in order to get 250whp from an N/A 3800 you only need one thing......... $$$$$$$

you would need headers, head work with higher compression, a good tune on 93 octane, or e85. thats on top of what ya got now and it might get 250 to the wheels
and the n/a cars came with 3.29s and a 3000 stall stock

yeah its really not worth it i had a pretty good n/a setup myself with quite a bit of money into it and it was quick but not fast, now im going gen v!

Originally Posted by QwikGT

dont bother staying N/A go M90. it is a complete waste of time and money trying to make N/A fast. i was going 14.9 N/A and i thought i had a fast car. im now going 13.1 @ 104mph for less than $1800 into the blower. with a 3.4 pulley!!! im still on ER rockers! there is no flat spot in this car, it pulls like a motha throughout the powerband.

x2. If all you want to do is nip 14's, then staying N/A is fine, as a typical intake/rocker/downpipe/tune setup can get you there pretty easily. After that, though, a top swap (or turbo!) will get you more power for your dollar. To make decent power you need a good set of heads, milled as much as possible with thin head gaskets to really bump up the compression. Do all that and you might as well do a top swap while you have the heads off.

THAT said...the XP is an AWESOME choice for a naturally aspirated nitrous build. With its exhaust bias it is great for getting those gases out of the cylinders. With an XP and an open exhaust (read: headers), you'd be able to easily run a 100 shot, and maybe more. I've always kind of wanted to go this route since you get naturally aspirated daily drivability and gas mileage with the ability to turn on a bottle heater and go run 12's. It's something to think about. Not many guys choose the L36+nitrous route.

hm, never looked at it i guess but im not sure a throttle body is really worth it in any situation.

Originally Posted by Bio248

hm, never looked at it i guess but im not sure a throttle body is really worth it in any situation.

Can try to bench guess it, but the fact is I felt it was money well spent when I got one. Definitely made a strong seat of the pants different. I'm dipping in to the 14s on a N/A build, so it's definitely contributing.

just get a top swap and call it a day, you get a nice sound out of it too

Jeez hahahaha freakin awesome this is the most amount of posts in the fastest amount of time from any GP forum Im on. Hahahaha and all of it is informative not full of drama but alot of humor as well. Great Forum! Thanks for the insight. The way I figure ill do as many supporting mods for a S/C setup that I can on my car while it is N/A (Meaning no point getting Hv3 or getting the TB yet). I know Ill be changing out the timing chain and dampener since I'm coming up on 75k. I figure If I am changing the chain might as well cam it with the double roller and springs with modded retainers. From there Ill see what route I will go. Once again ty guys!

Well, it looks like you're going S/C now (I recommend turbo ), but I believe the only N/A L36 to put down 250whp was a GP GT that was sponsered by ZZP. Plus the thing was a stroker. I myself have a lot of mods (as far as a N/A L36 is concerned) and I am still only putting down around 210whp. I do have plans in the works though for next year. 220whp is absolutely possible, but 250whp will take too much money on a N/A build. Good luck with the car, and have fun.

Both you and the Turbo Tahoe had incredible grip at that track for running high 14's. I had a 2.20 60' when I ran my 14.4 1/4 mile time. They must have prepped that track good for you guys. And it looks like that was a close race between you. Must've been fun winning.

^thats more like it

Originally Posted by QwikGT

here is my timeslip with my SSM90 kit and 3.4 pulley, N/A sucks, get BLOWN

Nice 60'! What's your suspension/tire setup?