Thread: 2000 grand prix crankshaft key replace?

Leave the waterpump in, just take out the 4 13mm bolts out of it, along with the other 13mm bolts holding the timing cover on.

Read what Bill said, he's spot on!!!

Remove Alternator (3 15mm bolts/studs/nut and 10mm on the support rod going toward the intake)
Remove Alternator/Tensioner bracket (watch the elbows, they will probably break) (3 15mm bolts)
Remove PS pump and lay to the side (2 13mm bolts, have to go through the holes in the PS pump pulley to get to, not hard at all)
Optional for clearance, remove the Compressor (3 15mm nuts up front 2 in the rear. Don't remember if the rear 2 were 15 or 13mm)
Remove 5 oil pan bolts (10mm or 3/8's I forgot)
Remove the Crank position sensor cover (big black plastic ring) be careful not to break the tabs
Remove the two bolts holding on the Crank Position Sensor (13mm I believe, keep the studs with the sensor)
Remove the rest of the 13mm bolts holding on the timing cover.
DO NOT remove the other smaller water pump bolts

Now once the timing cover is unbolted it will be fairly firm on the motor still... I placed a jack handle in the lower radiator hose hole and use as leverage to wiggle it off (don't pry with this, just a little extra leverage to help wiggle it).. Once the seal is broken, the timing cover will come off.. You will see the timing chain and gears. There will be a dot on the big cam sprocket and one on the smaller crank sprocket. Line them up. The cam sprocket dot should be at the 6 oclock position and the crank dot at 12 oclock position. Remove the Cam bolt (1 1/8th socket I believe) make sure your dots are still aligned. Remove the timing chain tensioner (8mm).

Now comes the fun part. How chewed up is your crank key? I can't tell to much by the pics but if it will hender you from sliding the oil pump drive ring and crank sprocket off you might have to massage it some.. but if it's broken clean then the oil pump drive ring should slide right off, then take your timing set off. At this point you should be able to access the whole crank key. remove it, tap in a new one, install in reverse with new gaskets/elbows and possibly new cam bolt.

Hope I didn't miss anything... OH use RTV on the bottom of the timing cover and in the joints to seal it back with the oil pan or it will lead. The new timing set will have a new front seal.

It's not bad... I just hope I didn't forget anything... Correct, do not remove the 10mm bolts holding the waterpump on, the waterpump will stay attached to the timing cover. Don't mess with the oil filter adapter!! Now there is one 13mm bolt kinda behind the oil filter that blocks it from being removed completely, but you can remove the oil filter. taadaa... get some teflon paste to use on all your bolts when putting everything back together.

Yep, that be it!! I am almost positive all of them are 13mm... Nothing smaller. There are 4 that go through the waterpump. Looking at the cover, two to the left of the waterpump pulley are side by side and two on the right of the water pump pulley are on top of each other (seen in your pic)

If you need pics I have many. I just built my motor and put in my car, I have the original motor I pulled out sitting on an engine stand, and I have another motor in parts spread out in about 2 boxes.. LOL so if you need pictures of anything myself or someone on here can help you. We can walk you through it.

Just keep up with which bolts come from which holes because there are two different length bolts and the three studs with the nipples that the plastic dust cover pops onto. Once you remove the big plastic ring you'll see what I'm talking about there.

Yes, only 13mm on the timing cover. If you are charged, you would pull the idler pulley and stand as well. You aren't so smile, that's one less thing. Water pump is technically held on with 4 10mm bolts. They are hiding one undernearth.

I was trying to toss a picture in, but work was busy and my photobucket is so large I could lose entire continents in it

no it has to come off as well, the lower elbow is in the timing cover.

Which will help you wiggle the cover out w/o pulling the pump and oil filter adapter.

Guess I wasn't really all that detailed. Sorry...my hands do a lot of things w/o me paying attention.

Yes.. however slight corrosion does build up around them and they can be a pain. Some use a pick/screwdriver to break them and remove the pieces...I use a blind pilot bearing tool.