pretty sure you need a l67 map wired in too.
should look like this.
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12-20-2012
pretty sure you need a l67 map wired in too.
should look like this.
12-21-2012
Do i just cut that thing off and splice that in? IMAG0302_zpsa7f54ba9.jpg photo by 01GrandPrixGT | Photobucket
If i wire that in will i need a Boost bypass solenoid?
12-21-2012
not sure how they all play together. we just had another top swap guy a while back with twisted up vac lines too. be nice if he chimed in to let us know how he made out.
Billboost37 would be the guy to ask. he knows to much lol
12-21-2012
Are you referring to me as the other top swap guy? lol
I didn't have to do any splicing. The square sensor with the fat nipple under is the MAP sensor. That I ran to under the snout. T under the snout then from there to the FPR. I bypassed the Boost bypass solenoid since I heard that was only used for when it is being abused, like a safe mode. The bottom of my BBV is open. The skinny vac line with the 90 degree end is from the throttle body, I followed another guys pics and did one big line from the throttle body to the Evap Canister instead of the 2 skinny lines. The guy I followed is getting full boost. Im still only getting 3.1 lbs of boost throughout the run. I had a 3.4 pulley then put on a 3.2 and still 3.1lbs. I have a couple of codes popping up, one is a possible vac leak or gas cap. replaced the gas cap cuz old one was beat up. Other code was from the coolant temp being too low, changed the thermostat and now the temp is ok. SES light is still coming up so I need to figure out how to reset it. Any suggestions? I'm thinking the problems with the computer is keeping me from getting full boost.
12-21-2012
You need an L67 MAP which is what is shown in this photo. If you can get the connector, you can splice the L36 wires into the L67 wires. That is what you get in this kit Easy Performance - L67 Swap Kit #EP-L36-L67SWAPOriginally Posted by scottydoggs
pretty sure you need a l67 map wired in too.
should look like this.
Just be warned that the plug that mates to the L36 connector on the wiring kit doesn't exactly fit. It has to be modified to remove the little plastic guide within the connector for it to fit.
As far as the vacuum lines, just follow the diagram.
12-21-2012
Guys, he has an l36 bin going in. He needs an l36 map.
12-21-2012
Now im confused
12-21-2012
There's no way to use an L36 MAP sensor with the top swap. I'm sure ZZP changes the bin for an L67 2 bar MAP. If you email them I'm sure they'll tell you which you need. If you look at the L36 MAP there is no way to connect a vacuum hose. Also as a 1 bar MAP, it's not designed for boost(positive pressure), only vacuum. The 2 bar L67 MAP is designed for both. If I recall, the L32 MAP may be a 3 bar unit. GUZ has it right, you can get the adapter to go from the L36 harness to the L67 MAP from Easy Performance or ZZP. You also get the harness to hook up the BBV solenoid with the kit should you want to hook it up.
12-21-2012
Thats incorrect.
Simply remove the grommet on the l36 map and away you go.
If zzp did indeed use an l67 bin then that would be the correct map. However the op says zzp told him l36.
12-22-2012
Well let's ask the op what he did. That will answer all our questions.
12-24-2012
I used the l67 MAP I had a brain fart when I typed l36. Sorry for the confusion.
01-07-2013
What do you mean by remove the grommet? By doing so, it is not needed to get the Easy Performance-L67 swap kit??
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