Thread: Temperature Problems

Sorry for yet another topic like this, but it's easier to get help in my own then in someone elses.

For about a month the car has had an issue where the temperature would creep up at both stop lights and lower speeds. First thing I replaced was the thermostat with another 195*. This did nothing. After this I realized that the fans weren't coming on unless the air conditioner was on, so with Sabre's advice I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Well, my fans still don't come on, and now the temperature creeps up when I am driving as well as at stop lights. The radiator is topped off, and I'm pretty sure that I have removed the air from the system. What else could be the issue? I'm thinking either a clog that happened very suddenly, or a water pump that crapped out.

I marked this as important because even with running the heater I can no longer make the long hilly drive to work, and with carpooling I miss out on about two hours a day, which is killing me.

PLEASE help.

I have checked the fuses but will check again tomorrow just to be sure.

I haven't actually flushed the system. But I blew a heater hose and took a while to find it, so I had to keep filling it back up until I did. Then I did intake manifold gaskets, and lost quite a bit there. Plus the temp sensor and thermostat were done at different times, and I lost a bunch of coolant each time.

I don't want to flush it unless I'm sure that the water pump is fine, because I'm broke and have already spent a small fortune on coolant.

How hard are they to replace? I've never done one before.

I've heard from people on this forum that the Chilton manuals suck and that the haynes is the way to go. I've been looking for a Haynes since I bought the car and stores either sell Chilton only or they don't have the Haynes for this model.

I just replaced manifolds (2) and everything was fine except for coolant sensor code. Replaced coolant sensor, purged system of air pockets. Now gauge reads hot, but also varies. Never had the problem before! I'm perplexed.

!0 years as a mechanic 1984-94 ...Feb 2000 se with gt 3.8
Parts that have been replaced:
Coolant sensor
upper (delphi updated) and lower manifolds, felpro gasket sets
2 thermostats
lower rad clamp
Map sensor
pcv valve from kit
radiator cap 16psi
Dexcool replaced and comprehensive flush prior (system seems brown sludge free)
No visible leaks.

I replace the the thermostat since the last post, I noticed that the thermostat that came in the upper intake kit was not allowing the motor to heat up at times. now it is overheating. Seems there is an air pocket in the system as well.
The way I purged the coolant system is as follows:
At a cold state, I remove the rad cap and top off coolant. brake open the bleeder on the thermostat housing... then close bleeder.
Start the motor, turn heater on high. wait until coolant begins to cycle (thermostat opens) crack the the bleeder again for sign of coolant ...then close.
Rev and hold motor at 2200 rpms and top off radiator with coolant.
Replace cap at this time, with rpms at 2200.
at idle I crack the bleeder once again with only coolant coming out.
heater on high is pumping out plenty of heat.
Drive the car 350 miles in 2 days.. gauge consistently on the high side.
Today after 15 mins apon startup on the freeway... climbs to almost over heat. Turn the motor off allow to cool enough to check fluid in rad. level is fine, over flow tank fine. Start the motor up, head back down the freeway... now no heat for 10 mins. air pocket????? am I doing it wrong or is there a secret here.

I am new here and never have posted on forums before.
The car I bought for my daughter 20 miles outside of town. she needs the car for college (first year). She drives it 90 miles a day just to school.
Please help.. thanx in advance, neither one of us is wealthy..

OK update...... tried again to purge air from system, using an old technic that I used to get the air out of the system..... well no air pocket. also put infrared gun on various locations on the motor. The readings were within 210 fh. BUT... changed the CTS/sending unit again.. after testing ohms impedance. sure the new sensor I replaced 2 weeks ago failed. Yep the guage was not accurate.... that did not explain the vary in temp but the large vacuum leak does (right above the bleeder for the TS housing) when cold no vacuum noise.. engine hot with hood closed.. noticeable. I'm sure it running a bit lean and messing with the PCM and fans had soething to do with this bizar experience. leave it to me to come up with this. Thanx for the data presented to me folks. Poor shame not one reply with everyone on board here,

Yeah, I flushed the system, and pulled off the old pump, but it was getting cold and my hands were numb so I gave up and decided to finish tomorrow.

I also found a Haynes manual and am regretting buying it. Half the crap it says to do, I didn't need to do. Then half the crap I needed to do, it doesn't say mention. Maybe other parts of the book are better, but after reading through the water pump section a few hours before I started, I just tossed it aside and haven't opened it again.

New water pump, new coolant, and 40 degree temperatures were not enough to keep the car from overheating.

And switching around relays didn't make the fans come on either.

and @Sabre: I remember you mentioning that a warm air intake gave you better mileage... How much better was it? Was there a noticeable loss in power?

Well....when you turn the ac on do both the fans come on or just one? Just wondering if the ''low'' fan is bad and the high only comes on when the ac is on.