its really just a preventative maitenance thing...im reaching 100,000 miles so im looking for any cheap way to prevent engine damage. check this link out Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer - Lucas engine oil additive
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09-14-2008
its really just a preventative maitenance thing...im reaching 100,000 miles so im looking for any cheap way to prevent engine damage. check this link out Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer - Lucas engine oil additive
Originally Posted by SuperSport
12-15-2008
royal purle is the way to go. a lot less friction then moble one. i know this cause i used mobile one for a couple oil changes since my buddy recomended it. it was alright, but then i decided to go with royal purple and the k&n filer and it runs much smoother i think. it takes longer to heat up the engine which is good except in the middle of winter when you warm your car up haha. but its best for the engine i think. i dirve 25 minutes to work and when i get there, the engine temp barely moves. its well worth the change. also royal purple seems to clean whatever was in there previously. whenever i do an oil change my oil is less darker than when i used mobile one. another benefit. just give it a shot, youll like it.
12-15-2008
Ya i am going to do about 2 or 3 oil changes with each this coming spring and summer and see which i like the best.
12-17-2008
Hi
I would consider Penz Plat. Here is the last UOA which was PP 5w-30 and a little VSOT added to taste.
12-17-2008
Did you get a Nitrate or Oxidation or TBN reading from them?
Was it a 5W30 or 10W30? I ask because you said it was one thing but the report says another. If you put in a 5W30 and it changed to a 10W30 in 4900 miles Id would be curious as to why.
They are using a lot of Moly in that to be sure but that zinc is nothing to write home about. The only reason I say that is that the last sample I pulled on my GP before it went down for the tranny had nearly 7500 miles on the sample and 1200 ppm on zinc.
But, that said, your wear numbers are pretty darn good. And Ive said on here before you got to taylor the oil to your engine. What works in yours may not work so well in mine. It is a very good wearing engine to say the least.
12-19-2008
Hi
I should have typed 10w-30 as this was done a few months ago. I use 5w-30 for winter use. The extra moly is from the vsot.
12-19-2008
first off... 5w30 for winter 10w30 for summer....
2nd, royal purple is great, and it's famous for less friction, but don't forget less resistance means less protection somwhere else... and for that reason i use a blend of R.P. and mobil 1, i feel it gives me the best of both worlds....
12-19-2008
The 5W30 for winter and 10W30 for summer is a mute issue with synthetics because of the broad temperature range they have.
Less resistance does not mean less protection by any means in relation to a motor oil. Less resistance means better chemical composition. The reason synthetics offer less resistance or in better terms, reduced friction is because their hydrocarbon chains are of equal length as opposed to a conventional motor oil in which the chains are all over the place.
12-20-2008
Hi
All the 5w means is that it flows somewhat better at a given cold temp then a 10w- would. The only reason I tend to run a 10w- during summer is to reduce the chances of shearing.. the 10w- has typically less VI. BTW, I sometimes run GC which is a 0w-30. And for its 30w aspect..its a very thick 30w..almost a light 40w.
12-23-2008
i second syntheitc, i switched to AMSoil and i do notice a difference and my car seems to run a lot better...
12-29-2008
Try this page bobistheoilguy.com I found it full of info when I was asking the same questions.
12-29-2008
^^^^ very interesting!
12-31-2008
Wow this is alot of info. I am glad you all have put out your input it dose help me out but also confuses me. LOL Thanks for all the input tho I wll try a few different ones and post it up on here when i do.
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