It's all good Rico :-)
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What I said to your question of "do you have a write up" was that I did not. Then you asked me to do a write up and I responded that I didn't look up all the info to do one. I'm pretty busy most of the time and on a moment's notice can't toss something together unless I need it for myself typically.
I took a moment and started looking at things
1. You need to contend with PCV. Use the L67 TB info in this thread
http://www.grandprixforums.net/how-g...her-44478.html
2. You can use the evap soleniod that comes with an L26 from the factory instead of the one that would be on a bracket to your motor. Or if you use an L36/L67 TB, then you can use the Evap port on the side of them.
That should be the modifications you need to run the L26 upper. I have the drill and tap if you need the TB drilled, I can do it. Give me a call tonight.
ITS F**KIN ALUMINUM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It doesn't warp.
It looks better.
IMO, I'm sure since it is physically larger than the L36 UIM, it should flow better.
But who knows, it's nothing you're going to notice.
then why was the L26 rated for less power?
L36 SII: 205/230?
L26 SIII: 197/233?
Who knows.
Guess they dyno'd one "good" SII and one "bad" SIII?
Or it was just your typical can't get a good signal dyno 3800's.
Ahhh Alex, I understand better now. You are talking about the vacuum lines for FPR/Evap that are currently combined into one port on your TB. if you use your stock Evap then you will retain that same crazy vacuum piece with two different sized lines going into one crazy piece. Or you can use the L26 evap and put your fpr by itself onto that one nipple to the side of the TB. This makes hose routing a little less goofy. Plus it takes that nipple which is going to tear and leave you to make your own, out of the picture.
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