They are similar to torx, but have more points-- they are 12 points (very small points). The socket/tool goes inside the bolt head, but I can't seem to find the correct bit. Thanks.
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11-27-2011
They are similar to torx, but have more points-- they are 12 points (very small points). The socket/tool goes inside the bolt head, but I can't seem to find the correct bit. Thanks.
11-27-2011
You sure about a torx? Mine are just normal socket, 10mm if I'm not mistaken.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
11-27-2011
Mine were also 10mm socket worthy.
I checked the service manual and it doesn't say any special tools are required and shows normal nuts and bolts...
Originally Posted by W-Body Store
11-27-2011
It's not a Torx you need, rather, a Torch.
11-27-2011
Bah, guess someone must have replaced them with something else!! I found what it is, btw. I went to O'Reilly parts and saw what I needed, even though I already looked; guess I just overlooked it. The bolt requires a triple square driver.
On a related note, one of the back bolts snapped off! I just finished drilling it out, and am about to go buy a through bolt and nut. It seems like on these cars, I'll fix one thing only to discover another problem.
11-27-2011
Yeah, it's very rare to get the crossover bolts, or the rear manifold to downpipe bolts out, without breaking them. They get rusty, and get heat cycled until they are literally bonded to the exhaust.
Make sure to coat the bolts so they dont rust again, and rotate tightening the bolts (dont tighten 1 all the way, then the other, and so on) That way the crossover seats correctly.
11-27-2011
Mine came off easy peezy
11-27-2011
I had one break off on the rear bolts and couldn't get a drill in there to drill it out, so I have a c-clamp as an exhaust clamp that's been working out great.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
11-27-2011
Staying true to the locale I see.
11-27-2011
I'll admit, the C-clamp idea crossed my mind, but I was lucky enough to be able to drill through the old stuck bolt so maybe I'll save the C-clamp for my next repair
All finished up, and it feels good, except for the damn P1655 code. If not for that, I'd be able to pass emissions tomorrow and be done with the wrenching on it.
11-28-2011
Redneck engineering works lolStaying true to the locale I see.
Originally Posted by TLSheff
11-28-2011
For the record, I needed to remove the throttle body to access the rear bolt, in order to drill it out. As we all know, removing the TB is really easy so it wasn't a big deal. The big deal was using a dull, old POS bit to get through the old bolt, which took me probably 40 minutes of drilling, spraying with WD-40, and more drilling.
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