Thread: Watter pump

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  1. #1 Watter pump 
    Destroys cars izup69's Avatar
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    Ok I got a question I got a leak coming from somewhere near the watter pump. I cant find the leak but I can see the fluid. Do the 04+ have a elbow on them or not and if they do would it be just as easy to change the pump while I'm at it (a new one is only $35 for lifetime warranty and no core charge)

    I always figure if I got the money to replace the whole part I'm working on do it so I wont have to do it latter. Just a question I'm going to head to the auto parts store today to pick up a haynes manual for the car so I can actually take it apart without guessing what I have to take off.

    I plan on replacing it next weekend b/c I don't really have the time this weekend unless its only like a 5 hour job. Thanks for all the help guys appreciate it.
    06 base open cone,2.5 inch dp into high-flow cat,window tint,drilled rotors.
    97 GTP ubend delete,drilled and slotted rotors,de-badged,open cone,6k HID,All aftermarket speakers
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  2. #2 Re: Watter pump 
    SE Level Member TheManiac's Avatar
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    As I understand, the Series 3 3800 has the same plastic elbow setup as the Series 2. If that is the source of the problem, changing the elbow has nothing to do with removing the water pump. You have to remove the alternator and the tensioner bracket. I'd guestimate a 30 minute job. If that is the problem a piece of the elbow is normally broken inside the intake and the bracket. I've used a small pick set to gently remove the broken piece.

    My advise, see if you can get a loan-a-tool radiator tester. Pump up the system, look around the car for leaks, hissing, anything. Do that first. This will really help. I've found is the elbows are leaking, you will see fluid directly under them.

    Keep in mind, I don't know 100% if the series III is setup like the Series II (but I believe they are).
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  3. #3 Re: Watter pump 
    GT Level Member zipper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheManiac View Post
    My advise, see if you can get a loan-a-tool radiator tester. Pump up the system, look around the car for leaks, hissing, anything. Do that first. This will really help. I've found is the elbows are leaking, you will see fluid directly under them.
    Do this. You will no exactly where the leak is coming from and then you won't have to spend money that you didn't need to spend in the first place. If you don't need the water pump, don't buy one.

    NA dyno: 222whp
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  4. #4 Re: Watter pump 
    Destroys cars izup69's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help ill just buy a cheap radiator cap and sacrifice it. I got pressure regulators at the house I can set for 15 psi to test the system. Looked at the hyanes manuals and they said they are for up to 2007 but I didn't see no series 3 in there at all so I didn't buy one. Ill just wing it like I always do lol. I got a set of ramps today so I'm just gonna drive the car around tomorrow and see if i cant drive it up on the ramps to see the leak first. But atm the car wont run b/c the battery is fried. Got a optima red-top ordered but it wont be here till Tuesday or Wednesday. Tell ya with my car if its one thing its also 15 other things all at the same time lol
    06 base open cone,2.5 inch dp into high-flow cat,window tint,drilled rotors.
    97 GTP ubend delete,drilled and slotted rotors,de-badged,open cone,6k HID,All aftermarket speakers
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  5. #5 Re: Watter pump 
    SE Level Member TheManiac's Avatar
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    Be careful with the radiator cap idea, you don't want to over pressurize the system (keep in mind the plastic parts that make it up). Also, one down side if you're doing what I think, you won't be able to leave the thing set up and watch if it loses pressure.

    Odds are the leak will show above the car.

    BTW - My opinion, I am not a fan of ramps. Jack and jack stands.
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  6. #6 Re: Watter pump 
    Destroys cars izup69's Avatar
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    Yeh I got a jack and stands but I dont like working on cars with them. I got a gravel driveway so its a pain in the @$$ to work with them.
    06 base open cone,2.5 inch dp into high-flow cat,window tint,drilled rotors.
    97 GTP ubend delete,drilled and slotted rotors,de-badged,open cone,6k HID,All aftermarket speakers
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  7. #7 Re: Watter pump 
    GT Level Member 2000GrandPrixGT2000's Avatar
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    Did you really misspell water? You were kidding right?
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  8. #8 Re: Watter pump 
    The mod from over yonder TheOtherNick's Avatar
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    dont buy a hayness manual get a subscription to alldatadiy.com
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  9. #9 Re: Watter pump 
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    haynes are good for torque specs... thats it.

    alldata IS more useful for sure though.

    GPONA has the GM repair manual as well though. And thats free.
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  10. #10 Re: Watter pump 
    Donating Users NoBoost91's Avatar
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    series III does have plastic coolant elbows, i had one that was leaking so i changed both while i was at it
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  11. #11 Re: Watter pump 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    S3 is identical in this area as the S2. Without pressurizing the system, just look. If you can't find the black coolant elbow right above the water pump and tell if it's leaking then a haynes isn't going to help this situation. Our waterpumps are the easiest pumps to replace.

    Loosen all 4 of the 8mm bolts holding the WP pulley on.
    Remove belt
    Going through the holes in the PS pump pulley at 12 and 6 remove the two 13mm bolts and gently lower the pump. (oil pressure sender is below it. Being gentle saves you $26)
    Remove the 4 13mm bolts on the outter edges of the waterpump
    Remove the 10mm bolts on the water pump.
    Clean the timing cover well
    Mount new pump to torque specs (probably have them here) with a new dry gasket.
    Put pulley back on with bolts snug, put belt on and tighten the pulley bolts.
    Refill with coolant

    Coolant elbow
    Remove alternator
    Remove 3 bolts from alternator tensioner/bracket and wiggle off
    Replace both elbows
    Reinstall.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

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