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I'm running MTX 1501d, the original one, my voltage drops to 10.2-10.5 when the stereo is turned up, and because of that, my amp isn't getting all the juice it wants, Big 3 is done with 4 gauge which did help with massive dimming, but it still dims. At 2000 rpms my alternator is putting out 14.1 80 amps. I'm wanting to switch to a 200 amp alternator but money is tight.
i have a 2000 watt RMS system (2 amps n 2 12s) i have an optima red top and 2 power acoustik 3 farad capacitors and my lights dont dim at night...all this might be cheaper than a high output alternator
Thanks for the input.Quote:
Originally Posted by CTKGP09
I have found several ho alternator companies that sell 200 amp alts for 2-300 dollars. I'm currently running 1.5 farad cap and the going rate for optima batteries are $160+. when you add batteries all you are doing is extending play time with the car off and you are adding stress to the alternator
capacitors do not help just for your info and i would def get a ho alt if its in your budget the only real way to help your electrical and the of course the big three and maybe a new batt up front
well i assure you that i am as the amp i am using will definatly put out those number or close to and i have it set with a dmm and it is running fine just dont turn it all the way up and leave it there for very long i usually only play at about half volume so it doesnt pull those amps all the time
What about the cap buster? it is a battery cap hybrid, it is supposed to be equal to 100 farad cap. just wanting to know opinions
Still far too low to be of any real use in overcoming a deficient electrical system. Caps are a good thing, they help transient response, they're just grossly mismarketed in the car audio world.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky178
like i said best thing is bigger alt and new batt check out one of the audio forums they will tell you the same thing about caps there not worth the money
Yes, that's what they'll tell you, but that doesn't mean they're right. If you've built any audio amplifiers, you know that capacitance on the power rail is a good thing, the lower the ESR the better, but as I said, it's for transient response and ripple reduction, not for proping up a deficient power system. They're not worth it if all you care about is SPL.Quote:
Originally Posted by 05gpgt
if yah dont mind me asking what do u run and i guess from the things ive been told and read they just dont do anything in a system
do u happen to have anything that i could read online that describes this better and what it exactly does for improving my system?
Believe it or not, I'm not running anything right now, this is from my younger days when I was more into car audio. I have a few things sitting around still, a couple of MTX Black/Gold amps, for example, that I've never gotten around to installing. I really need to, I love those amps and they're impossible to find anymore. I don't have anything online specifically, it's been a while (5-6 years) since I was into amplifier design/building, so my bookmarks are long gone, and a lot of it was in books, anyway.
ic just curious ive never been told that before and wanted to see if it really would help at all yah those are definitely some older stuff but good idk what i would do without my system love it need a ho alt really bad though
not even sure who makes them for a good price every where i look it well over 300 or so
See, now I got curious, since I'd slowly been selling off my car audio stuff, and I must have sold the Black Gold at some point, as well as my old Rockford amps. All I've got left is an MTX 2300x and a 4300x. Good amps, I should still get them installed at some point.
Unfortunately, I don't know of anyone that makes HO alts cheap, but I'm thinking I just saw a thread on one of the boards where someone swapped in a CS144 for the stock CS130D. Might be a decent option.
iraggi alts makes a 220/240/280A alt for our models i believe, and i believe mean grean makes a HO alt, but there all fairly pricey
yah it was well over 300 i tried irragi before and to me thats to much
1 farad=500watts RMS power...a capacitor RESISTS changes in voltages thereby regulating it...the original alternator is in my car and ive had this setup for 16 months now and never had a problem...guess its a matter of preference
Have you tried Magic 3 wire setup, I gained around 1v on my setup, I used to run 3 bazooka amps. 2 - 500w, and 1- 140w. I'm also running a 2 farad cap.
I looked into getting them a while ago, I killed 2 alternator before. Then I regrounded everything, got a cap and then I did Magic 3 and had no problems after that.