Thread: Swapping water pump pulley?

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  1. #1 Swapping water pump pulley? 
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    I am looking at swapping the water pump and alt pulley to a larger diameter. Any recommendations?

    cheers Jim
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  2. #2 Re: Swapping water pump pulley? 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    Why?

    I see no reason to do so, you wouldn't gain anything.

    04+ cars have a voltage regulator built in, spinning it faster or slower will not make a difference. It only charges when the computer thinks it needs too. Voltage will at random drop to 13 volts or be as high as 15 at any given time.

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  3. #3 Re: Swapping water pump pulley? 
    GTP Level Member buck531's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch View Post
    Why?

    I see no reason to do so, you wouldn't gain anything.

    04+ cars have a voltage regulator built in, spinning it faster or slower will not make a difference. It only charges when the computer thinks it needs too. Voltage will at random drop to 13 volts or be as high as 15 at any given time.
    Maybe I missed something but what does voltage have to do with a water pump pulley?
    03 GS - SSAC, AEM wb, PT,SR rockers, Gen 3, 3.4, dynotech trans w/ 3.29's.

    87 Fiero GT. L67 Swap. XP, ported heads/sc. N* TB, FSIC, 2.8, 12.018 @ 113 1.71 60'.
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  4. #4 Re: Swapping water pump pulley? 
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    Putting a larger pulley on will make them run slower anyway.
    GPONA #1 Cyber Bully
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  5. #5 Re: Swapping water pump pulley? 
    GrandPrix Junkie idrivejunk's Avatar
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    Why not change crank pulley size instead? If you're drag racing you might install a switch that interrupts the alternator circuit when doing so, to keep it from charging while you make a pass.
    All Grand Prix, all the time. 69 Model J, 99 GT & GTP coupes. All junk, haha.
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  6. #6 Re: Swapping water pump pulley? 
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    Thanks, I'll have a look at the crank pulley. The engine will only run for about 15 minutes so charging shouldn't be an issue, the under driven water pump requires slightly less power at full rpm. Nothing significant but all the small changes will add up.

    Cheers
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  7. #7 Re: Swapping water pump pulley? 
    GXP Level Member Turbocharged400sbc's Avatar
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    i last saw an UD wp pulley sell for about 75$, you gain about 1hp, at 5500+ rpm, where your HP has fallen well below its peak at about 4500.

    or you could spend about 300-500$ for nitrous and get about 74 more hp reliably
    ~James~ Psychotic Gearhead
    projects: 84 Cressida waGN~ 90 LN3 3800, equal length headers, T70, 89 700r4, misc parts,
    1994 Oldsmobile 442 (462ci-4wd-2 engines) L67/4t80e^2,
    00 Turbo Regal 608 fwhp 575ftlbs at 5500rpm, 98 WhippledRiv, 97 GTP
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  8. #8 Re: Swapping water pump pulley? 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
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    You should re-read the first post and you'll understand.

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  9. #9 Re: Swapping water pump pulley? 
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    04+ charging systems are even more complex than that they are PWM driven from the PCM and there is a current sensor around all the Negative cables to monitor charge/discharge. In 06' they were equipped with an over running clutch and should be replaced with the same.

    Jeff
    An engine is an engine no matter the size.... I think Dr. Seuss said that... or maybe it was Big Weld....
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  10. #10 Re: Swapping water pump pulley? 
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    Thanks J57ltr I'll start looking for the 06 alt clutch. My old Honda bikes are raced without a charging system, it looks like this would only work in a drag race for the GP

    The nitro option is great but the car needs to be mostly stock.
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  11. #11 Re: Swapping water pump pulley? 
    GXP Level Member Turbocharged400sbc's Avatar
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    its the 04 that had the freewheeling clutch on the alternator, GM discontinued the clutch usage with all the noise complaints from squealing....NVH>all
    06is where the new charging system design also factors in actual cable current as well as controlling the field/voltage....its really just a more thorough way of monitoring it. when a batt cell starts to short/bridge the alternator has to put out extra current to overcome the leech, the leech can get so big that the alternator is at full field constantly and creating alot of heat which kills alternator bearings....and those can seize, which means you aint going anywhere....

    problem is that lots of loads simulate the same thing so a voltage only diagnostic cannot tell you what the battery is getting. gm added the current probe to see how much charging current was going to the battery....this data can tell the pcm whether the alternator is doing it job, or if its getting too much current that the battery has a short and will actually pare down the charging system to save the alternator as it knows the battery is not helping....

    the clutch was to "solve" two issues, seized alternators disabling vehicle, and the customer complaint of dimming flickering lights...at the shifts...
    all it does is keep the alternator from suddenly dropping rpm, now it coasts down to reduce the flicker, and in a lockup the belt is still able to turn and keep PS and WP functioning to get you home/safe area.

    a charging problem on the 06+ will result in a reduced power warning/limiting even iirc as its a safety issue.

    its not gonna help ya besides for a split second after the shifts.

    order a 5 gal can of nitromethane, dump in tank with c16 and run that bugger on 15-25% nitro

    just remember, only pussies run nitro
    ~James~ Psychotic Gearhead
    projects: 84 Cressida waGN~ 90 LN3 3800, equal length headers, T70, 89 700r4, misc parts,
    1994 Oldsmobile 442 (462ci-4wd-2 engines) L67/4t80e^2,
    00 Turbo Regal 608 fwhp 575ftlbs at 5500rpm, 98 WhippledRiv, 97 GTP
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