It's from ZZP:Quote:
Originally Posted by Spawne32
http://zzperformance.com/3800/transm...ssion-pan.html
But there's also this:
http://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_10758.php
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It's from ZZP:Quote:
Originally Posted by Spawne32
http://zzperformance.com/3800/transm...ssion-pan.html
But there's also this:
http://www.yourcovers.com/transpan_10758.php
Too bad you couldn't lay your hands on one of these. http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...MVISIT3007.jpg
car tuning made a few.
Those are cool, for sure. I'd be all over it if I could find one used and cheap. If only...Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesIvey24
Got my generic HeliCoil kit today. Surprisingly fast considering it came all the way from the U.K.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psuq54yeo6.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps3xdqecql.jpg
And it's the correct one!
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psc966kznv.jpg
Looks like I will not be needing to pre-drill
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps7vrqoiva.jpg
Hole before tap
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psshnfberd.jpg
And after
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...pska1cexlv.jpg
HeliCoil in. She's a bit long.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psvyhtgxnp.jpg
Instructions say to "break off the tang." Not sure that's going to cut it.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...pszwi7xvfm.jpg
A little Dremel action to cut through one of the coils
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psdyaw0jwf.jpg
Plug goes in without any issues
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psmxfonrxt.jpg
There's even enough leftover in this coil to do another pan
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psojr44gdc.jpg
Magnet layout
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psfvg7tgy0.jpg
This should be good to hold them
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psd1rfegha.jpg
And they're in
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...ps9um8teh9.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psvetcejgm.jpg
Going to let it cure overnight, then toss the pan on tomorrow
That's a good idea making the drain bolt and adding extra magnets.
I like everything I see lol. Might be a dumb question, but how does the coil stay in the pan without un-threading when you remove the drain bolt?
Not a dumb question at all. It's one of those things that, if you see it, you inherently "get" what's going on. It's a little harder to describe in words... But I'll try.Quote:
Originally Posted by 02NavyBlue
The raw coil (before installation) is actually larger (diameter) and has a finer pitch than after installation. When you screw the coil in (from the bottom using the tang) it shrinks the diameter and pulls the pitch. You can feel it kind of springing its way in as you twist. Once you quit twisting, the coil relaxes and binds itself in the hole. It's kind if like a Chinese finger trap wrapped around a cylinder. It will never unscrew (in theory) because whatever force is acting to unscrew the coil is actually binding it harder into the hole.
Did that make sense?
I got it
Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk
Ah I see, yeah because it's condensed when its new, and must be larger if it's going to spread apart and fit into the tapped threads(and shrink in diameter at the same time). As it sits, there is pressure as the coil wants to return to how it was before it was installed. Neat
I've heard of putting a small amount of JB Weld on the outside of the helicoil before installation in places like that where theres fluid behind the threads. To tip the odds in favor of no seepage. Then tap or thread chaser after its hardened. In this case, the plug gasket should stop anything that gets past, and theres no pressure on the fluid. Just thought I'd toss that in, has nothing to do with holding the threaded insert in place. I did the carb mount holes in my V8 intake way back when, and yep the coils are to be trimmed to length. Dremel beats wire cutters for that! Snapping off just the tang is what to do when you can use the whole thing.
That get's me thinking... Maybe I'll put a little trans fluid in the pan and let it set overnight just to leak test it...Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
I figured it wouldn't take much
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psfumbmqvo.jpg
and it didn't
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psw4h2fuao.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...psqelwno2f.jpg
Looks like my hardware store drain plug washer setup isn't going to cut it. I guess it's better to know now, versus after it's installed with 10+ quarts sitting on top of that plug. I'll see what O'reilly has today after work.
get rid of the copper and go with nylon or Teflon
I like the metal gasket with a rubber ring around them, they always work great on oil drain plugs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
The one on the right is what's in there right now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...pswb3g1rbx.jpg
I'm thinking the rubber sealing portion isn't large enough to cover the oversized Helicoiled hole. James, something like this?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/66303.oap?year=1992&make=Mercedes-Benz&model=300SE&vi=1382004&ck=Search_66303_138200 4_3621&keyword=66303
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/...97-118-001.jpg
I bet that is exactly the issue, those gaskets are pretty nice when they are used stock
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
Maybe should have skipped the helicoil altogether.
no what you need to do is keep that ta you build and enjoy it!!!
these pans aren't strong enough to work without a helicoil.
yeah either the blue ribbed nylon or I just use the white nylon from the plug section at any parts store, or you can order teflon washers from McMaster
We'll get it sealed up one way or another. I'm not worried.Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk