There ya go John!
|
Alright, drain and refill of trans is 8-10 qts. Do you recommend Dex V or Dex VI in this high mileage trans (07 with approx 120K)?
I like dex vi in anything. Its a better fluid. Also the air pump is unnecesary emissions bull****. The one in my bonneville got removed. aggressively. It's pointless. Just make sure its blocked off so you don't have an exhaust leak.
Lol. Airpump. Yeah. Kill it. Same with EGR
So close to being done. Someone had done some hacking of the wire loom so I took the time to fix it right.
The problem now is that I stripped the tip of my front left cradle bolt. I need to get a replacement or a tap/die and I cannot figure out the size and threading. The guy at Lows said Metric 14, my gauge looked like it was Metric 13, so if someone can point me right, please do.
I would typicallly take a hacksaw or something similar and recut the thread by hand as you likely only have one or two bad threads.
Another possibility is if there's any yards near you.. every W body has the same front bolt to my knowledge. They all look the same. I'd go grab one.
I can try that too. I have a thread file that I tried to use but I don't have a vice yet, so I can't get any force behind it. Its a little like pissing into the wind.
Even if I get the bolt straight Im really concerned I need to run a tap up through the nut in the frame. That looks like it would be a real PIA to swap out.
I've gunned these things in for years and never hurt one that bad yet. Sounds like you did a good job.
It had to happen, I was set to get finished on Sunday and drive it this week![]()
Also if anyone is interested, the four bolts holding the cradle to the frame are 14mmx2.0. I had autoquest measure and order me a tap/die over lunch.
Thanks for sharing.. figures it's a monster oddball that is only good for tapping F body brakes.
They could not find it in the regular bolts and the thread gauge only went to 1.75mm. We finally found a match in the wheel studs.
OK, finally got it all back together (been pretty sick) and its not running right which is par for the course. Last night it would not turn over, nothing from the starter at all. Everything else seemed to be working. This morning my wife got it started but texted 'Timing off... won't stay running...backfiring'. I'm going to double check my connections when I get back to the house tonight, but is there a direction you would go when looking?
During the change I disconnected all the sensors on the passenger side near the diff, both near the starter, the air intake sensor, the PCM, the transmission sensor and the master cylinder sensor if that helps.
Another update. Seems my starter was sticking. BFH cleared that up. Car starts put put then cuts off. If I diggle the gas it will stay running but it lopes like it's got a big cam. If I disconnect the MAF it will run but stays up around 3k RPM. Before I spend stupid money on a MAF, I'd like some chime in from the Masters. Could I be overlooking something else that would cause this?
I'd look for a huge vacuum leak. Like...did you leave the brake booster disconnected?
Don't ask how I know these things.. its not from experience......sooooo go hook yours up and pretend I'm a genius that didn't learn everything the hardest way possible. K?
Thanks Bill I'll check it. I don't remember unhooking any vacuum lines though.
Right..you changed the flex... well... a weekend or so ago, I did the same damn thing. Car ran just like what you are saying when I fired it up. Keep in mind it took me 5 hours start to finish. Vacuum booster was sucking wind like a hooker trying to get a golf ball through a Wendy's straw.
Lol nice.
Genius! Completely unhooked at the booster. It would probably run fine now had my wife left the jumper cables.
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |