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07-19-2014
11 ft. lbs. torque on the pump bolts, then for reassembly, correct?
I'll try to hunt for the torx head bolts around town - might have to wait on OEM bolts Monday. With that oddball size, I'm thinking dealer only. M8 X 1.25 X 21.0 doesn't seem like a common size.
Last edited by SnowDrift; 07-19-2014 at 07:39 AM.
07-19-2014
I'm not sure on the torque settings, I remember finding them at one point but ended up just using my best judgment on tightness.
07-19-2014
I found "pump body to case" in your torque chart you posted. If I have the right terms, then I had the right torque, for sure. They felt pretty good at that setting. Cover is back on - just need to order those lower bolts.
07-19-2014
Sounds good, hope all goes well. And yeah I remember those charts, they were from chilton when I had access to it.
07-19-2014
my pic I have up in a post shows torque specs. don't over tighten the bolts they are hardened. pump bolts were listed as 106 inch lbs
07-20-2014
I have them at about 132 in lb. From what NavyBlue said, the specs he posted were from a Chilton manualOriginally Posted by paedbo
After some digging, I found the post you made. Where did these specs. come from? It makes sense, since these bolts are smaller than the rest. Were these from GM?
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...08#post1223608
Last edited by SnowDrift; 07-20-2014 at 06:44 AM.
07-20-2014
I took the cover back off, removed the small bolts for the pump and re-torqued them at the 106, just to be safe. Thanks, Paedbo, for the tip. I'd have missed that, otherwise.
07-20-2014
atsg manual is where I got the specs
I forgot the 2 upper bolts were 11. but the pic I made had them listed.
I made the pic because I wanted a visual pic of what bolts and torques and lengths went where during a 4th hub repair. I figured it would help others and if you mixed up the bolts you could easily measure their lengths to figure out where they go.
Last edited by paedbo; 07-20-2014 at 09:04 PM.
07-21-2014
Nice! Thank you.
Those recessed Torx bolts are $6 each from the dealership.
07-21-2014
no problem. good luck
07-23-2014
I ran into a snag on the bottom bolts that I wanted to share. I went to put my last inverted torx head bolt in to find that it would only screw in about half a thread, which told me something was in the threads in the transmission. I took the cover back off and ran a pick around the threads to attempt to clean them out. I spent about 45 mins. to an hour doing this, as well as chasing the threads, by hand only, with a tap and a thread gauge. With persistence, I was able to clean the metal shard out of the thread groove and was able to put in the last bolt without issue. Occasionally, I would gently blow out the hole with compressed air. I, literally, spun the tap in and out with my fingers only and was able to eventually clean out what needed to be cleaned out.
The cover bolts are torqued to the 18 ft. lbs. except for the lower four, which are at 16 ft. lbs. and all's well.
07-23-2014
Thanks for all the help, everyone. Back on the road, now.
On the list of parts I had to disconnect, aside from those NavyBlue listed, I also had to disconnect the throttle bracket. It was going to hit the master cylinder. I left the spindle in place, but removed the whole strut assembly. Spindle removal would only have been out of convenience, for me. It wasn't in the way of anything, but a nuisance sometimes when it flopped around.
Center axle nut torque is 118 ft. lbs., correct? I thought I had this written down somewhere, but couldn't find it. I called a local parts store and the guy had some download on his personal phone that had this with it.
Last edited by SnowDrift; 07-24-2014 at 06:32 AM.
07-24-2014
Yeah the throttle cables will hit on the abs module. Also the trans lines will bind on something. Yes 118 is the spec for the axle nut. And removing the strut/knuckle as an assembly is the way to go. Hope everything is working well. It wasn't so bad was it?
07-25-2014
Mine was about to hit the master cylinder, itself - might be in a little different location on the 3.8 vs. 3.8 S/C? I put a note in the Chilton manual for that axle nut spec, since it's not listed.
It wasn't so bad. It took more days than I had hoped, but I was extra careful when lowering the cradle, since I hadn't done it this way before. Last time was for the rack replacement, so it was tilting a different direction. I only had a few hours the first day and didn't get in any sort of hurry. Drilling out the one bolt wasn't what I expected, but also wasn't a big deal in any way. Ordering the replacement bolts set me back two days. In summary, I'd do it again in WAY less time, knowing some things to expect. For only having a couple hours/day to work on it when I did actually work on it, it went pretty smooth. Having this forum was priceless, though. I'd probably not have attempted this, had I not had so much information ahead of time from the guys that have done it and posted photos/instructions.
08-28-2014
Hey Guys,
I also have the Hard Shifting in my 01 Grand Prix NA. I had it scanned and confirmed the Code P1811....Pressure Control Solenoid...crap. So here's the question I have- If I leave it, what are the long term effects on the Trans? The car has 144k and I plan on taking her to 200k. Can I afford to let this go for a while or is it a necessity to take care of ASAP to prevent accelerated wear on the Trans?
FYI- I have a 5 mile commute to work, so this really only happens about every two weeks or so.
I would greatly appreciate any advice. My local Trans shop seems to know a lot about this and he quoted me $1500 to do it, but he does a little more extensive rebuild than just replacing the solenoid alone.
Thanks,
Luke
08-28-2014
Well you could throw a shift kit in it and that would band aid the problem untill you can get the soenoid replaced or get a rebuild.
Sent from the Milky Way
08-28-2014
Yea I considered that, but I really don't want to tear into this bad boy myself. I live in an apt. so it's kind of a hassle to do anything bigger than brakes/suspension work.
Any other thoughts out there? Bueller?
08-28-2014
Well the shiftkit is fairly simple, you just gotta drop the trans pan and open the accumulator. So all in all it costs like 100 bucks or so because you need new fluid too.
Sent from the Milky Way
08-28-2014
How does the shift kit prevent the hard shift?
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