Hard shifting 4T65E in '99 GTP

I didn't experience slow shifts - the issue I was/am dealing with is when is shifts under acceleration, it feels like the front end is going to break off. It slams into gear so hard that it shakes the steering wheel. The only way I can get to where it doesn't do this is if I accelerate hard enough that it shifts into 3rd at about 55 and into OD at about 70 or so. It's the final shift that is the worst.

<<Root is the PCS so yes... but, by putting in the shift kit, you limit the movement in the accumulator and do not trigger the max adapt code >>

Bill made this comment above earlier - Is the max adapt code that which causes this harsh shift condition?

Yes..it is. If you check codes when it's shifting that way (without turning off the ignition) you should see P1811

Thanks!

But if it's not max adapt, lets say the pcs is stuck so it's always at full pressure, a shift kit would not help that condition. It helps normal max adapt issues because that is triggered from slow shifts.

I guess I'll see how it acts and determine how soon I need to get on the PCS. I'm making a trip in a few weeks and wanted it to be right before that. It's going to come down to whether or not I have the time, I guess. I'm thinking a day to do that solenoid if it takes you guys a 1/2 day.

Planning a day is wise. You will be dropping the pan, which is a great time to toss in the shift kit. Then lower the drivetrain/subframe to pull the side cover off. Swap the pcs and the cover goes back on.

I put the shift kit in this past weekend. Will the pan need to be dropped again for the PCS and access through the side cover, aside from draining ATF?

First vehicle I've owned and didn't put a drain plug in the pan. Can't warm up to how close it is to the ground.

You don't need to pull the lower pan to remove the fluid/remove the side pan. You could really just pull the side pan and let it drain from there, but that can get messy fast. What I did is I pulled a cooler line and started it up until I filled up a gallon container, it still leaked out another 2 quarts, so a gallon and a half would be best.

As I'm debating on when to start this PCS project, I noticed, yesterday that I was getting some surging out of this again. I dismissed it as bad roads, but today, it is doing the same thing on a very light acceleration. This is just what it was doing before I had the TCC replaced a while back. I guess I'll be doing both at the same time. Once I'm at these solenoids, are there any tricks on getting them out? I see the TCC has a clip that appears to be able to be removed without removing the pump. What about the PCS? I don't recall seeing anything, specific, on that.

Nice video, by the way, Blue. The photos you took and the video were great - I'm thinking they will be very useful to many.

After reading through this, I became a little nervous on the surging I'm noticing now.

http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...ht=replacement

Coincidence that it started shortly after the shift kit spring installation? It wasn't immediate - took a few days of driving before it showed up. I notice surging on very light acceleration and it's most noticeable in OD. We live in a very flat area, so I can't see if it does it on hills. It doesn't seem to do it all the time.

I did disconnect the negative cable when putting in the kit. Does the relearn process cause anything like this, possibly?

Bill, what sayeth thou?

If it is slight.. I'd look to the easy things first. You saw my response in that thread. I found a bad coil, and ... couldn't find it scanning or anything else. The only way I found it was to swap the parts out with spares. Was not fun to fine at all.

Make sure your TB is clean
Your maf is clean
Your TPS is solid and not fluctuating
If you have spare coils..swap them on.

Thanks!

On the location for these solenoids I'm replacing, the PCS is right above the TCC on the LH side, as I'm looking at the transmission as it sits in the chassis, correct? I'm ready to take out the cradle bolts. The rack is disconnected via the mount bolts.

Do both tie rod ends need removed? If so, then why on both sides? I thought I saw someone say that, but wasn't sure why both.

Yes the pcs is the large black one and is above the tcc solenoid. I only removed my drivers side tie rod end.

What is the reason for the four (4) torx bolts across the bottom of the side cover being different from all the rest, which are hex bolts?

No clue but be careful with them, clean them out well before removing

Yeah, I thought I was going to blow a nut on two of them. One, I just couldn't get, so had to hit it with an impact, then an bigger impact, and then it came out. The last one had to be drilled out. They were beyond ridiculously tight. I had thought about replacing them with hex head, but after drilling was so easy, since they're automatically centered, I think it may be best to just leave them as they are.

I have to remove the pump, as it seems, since one of the solenoid clips is covered by it. I can see the clip, but it is not able to be removed without the pump moving. If I remove all but the silver bolt, is there any big deal to this? Is there anything tricky to realign or anything to watch out for when taking it off to access the clip?

Nope just remove all bolts except silver and the pump will come right off. Then you can remove the tcc solenoid. Nothing tricky about reinstalling the pump, you just have to get the splines back in the middle. That's easy though
If you need any assistance on reinstalling anything you can watch my video I made when doing my trans stuff
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dMSwfNPZnxU

Thanks. I had looked at that video before, but watched it again as a refresher tonight. Is Vaseline safe to use if I don't have genuine assembly grease? I know it can swell some seals, but I couldn't remember the type. Petroleum jelly, right, so it should be fine, I'm thinking. I think I might use something on the cover seal where the o-ring is for the CV shaft like you did.

Yeah I've always heard its safe. I just use it lightly