Thread: Transmission lines on 2003 Prix

I would take the year off the post, it is not totally year specific. You will need line wrenches to remove the fitting from the radiator. You could use a regular open end, just be carefull becuase they will not fit perfectly.

Morad Parts Company - 3800 Motors, Transaxles, & Stock Parts

I am sure they will have a line for you at a resonable price

You don't need any type of wrenches, lol.

It's a quick connect fitting. Pull back the plastic covering and use a small flat blade screw driver to remove the retaining clip. I changed them out a few months ago.

I got replacement lines. They're not expensive.

For the transmission end, it's the same type of quick disconnect. Just pull back the cover and remove the retaining clip.

The hard lines at the end of the tranny and the radiator are both held in with those clips. Quick connect fittings on both ends. But be warned, when you get them disconnected, there's going to be a little transmission fluid coming out.

Once you get them disconnected, if you put the little clips back in at the fittings on the radiator and transmission, all you'll have to do to re-connect them is just push the lines back in until you hear them click and you'll be done.

If the lines are leaking at the point where it turns from a hard line to rubber line, you can cut the soft section out with a tube cutter, then use a double flaring tool to flare the ends of the hard line and install a new rubber line and then use hose clamps to secure it.

But by NO MEANS just cut out the existing rubber line and slip on new rubber line our you'll just be asking for trouble as the pressure could well force the rubber line off even with a hose clamp.

The double flaring tool creates, well, a flare on the end of the hard line that gives the rubber line a little something to bite into and when you clamp it, its much harder for that line to come off by any other means other than you intentionally taking it off.

Now the quick and easy way to do this would be to contact Ed Morad as Damojo suggested and just get a factory replacement line from him and you'll be good to go.

I think I paid $30 for both OEM lines at the dealer. Not worth it to go to Morad since you know these will be brand new pieces and not used ones that could start leaking in three months again.

Dude, I can see to it that you get the lines for cheap, if you want to. I got a contact at the Chevy dealership I bought them from. He's a fellow moderator for NAIOA. I just sent him a message asking him to check on the lines for your GP (should be the same as mine) and get me part numbers as well as a price quote.

If you don't want to buy from him, then you can order them off GMPD for a couple dollars more. Otherwise if you want to register at NAIOA you can order from him directly. I'll have more info for you tomorrow afternoon after I get off work. He'll have the info to me by tomorrow mid-day when he's at work.

Now THAT is community spirit, thank you Sabre.

I agree with the others and what you were quoted for lines is rediculous BUT is likely a list or dealer-above list price and that is why it looks so bad. Around $30 sounds right for the complete lines as I have had to replace a number of them this year and was not too long ago. Take up the offers on getting the lines cheaper without question!!! The only thing that may get you is the shipping on them because they are an odd shape and size. Also as mentioned above yes all you need is a pocket screwdriver to pop off the clips that hold the lines into the fittings and definately watch out for a big leak once undone! You may want to start by disconnecting the trans end of the line first and let the line/s hang down to drain into a drain pan, this will help it to not leak so bad at the radiator itself

When I said $30 earlier, that was the shipped price.

Just to update, I got the new lines on Monday, (Thanks again Sabrewings) took just over 3 weeks to get them, but the savings was worth it.
Going to install them in a few minutes, gotta let the garage thaw out first.

I also have to change out the passenger side CV shaft. The inner boot was worn, and leaking a little grease when we bought the car in Sept, but not bad enought to worry about then, well, since the garage is gonna be warmed up, might as well tackle that also.

I'll post back and let you's know how it went......

Originally Posted by brewtus

Just to update, I got the new lines on Monday (Thanks again Sabrewings) took just over 3 weeks to get them, but the savings was worth it.
Going to install them in a few minutes, gotta let the garage thaw out first.

I wondered what ever happened. Order them from GMPartsDirect?

Originally Posted by Sabrewings

I wondered what ever happened. Order them from GMPartsDirect?

Yes, back on the 4th of Dec. They were $84, a LOT better than the $145.



I got the lines in, wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Just make sure you have an extra set of eyes to keep a watch out in case the clips go flying.

The CV shaft on the other hand.....

Rusted lug nuts, have a shaft seal on hand (I didn't know mine was bad until the shaft was out), 35mm socket for the hub/shaft nut, and strut removal to make more room, are things to keep in mind when doing this.

I'd like to add to the sticky about CV boot replacement.

I needed the torque specs for the shaft nut to the wheel hub (118 ft lbs). I had to do a little searching online, and the sticky at this site comes up first in Google, but I didn't see any reinstallation instructions / tips in the posting.
Just thought maybe a mod could add it.