Thread: Top Swap leads to P1811

Ok, I know obviously what I need and I will be ordering a TEP trans within the year. I just can't at the moment after my build or I'll be single if I don't get other honey doo's done... LOL

1999 Grand Prix GT 154K. Before the top swap build the trans worked flawlessly. Even with my foot, I saw/felt no signs of slippage.

After the build, same feeling for about 180 - 200 miles until the P1811 code popped up and my trans temps were reaching 230*. The temp could be due to slippage? I don't know... I'd clear the code with the Aeroforce and then it would go away for about two days. Everyone knows the symptoms so I'm not going to elaborate. My question is: I have to pull the motor back out to fix an oil leak somewhere up front. I want to pull it because I can quickly and it's easer to work on outside the car. While the motor is out, I thought I'd pull the trans with it. While doing so; I'll pull both pans, change the filter, add a transgo shift kit which I've already purchased, and I'll add a new PCS in the valve body. I figure since it's out, $100 might not be a bad investment if I can get the trans to last another year at the most until I'm ready to order my trans. Is it a waste to try to band aid or have others had success doing this?

Mods are in my sig, and yes a canned tune but I have heard good reviews from Intense tunes. I will have an incar tune later, guy down the road does LS builds and he'd tune for me. I don't see those mods raising my heat of my trans that high, or could the extra power cause it? My driving was mild to moderate. I have not hard launched it yet, but I have done a couple WOT pulls from 30 - 40 mph rolls. I do live on top of a mountain so anytime I leave, I go down and back up it. I know also the temp sensor is on the valve body, where all the heat is so I'd assume higher temps there anyway.

I know this is vague, but I'm looking for others that had similar issues and outcomes.

The typical issue is caused by the pcs. Doing a shift kit is a great band aid for those not wanting to pull/lower the trans to do the pcs. I'd do the two and smile if I were you.

However...I'd be rethinking pulling stuff for a simple oil leak, depending on what it is.

I will do both.. Need a shift kit anyway, if the PCS fixes the problem.

I'm not sure what is leaking really.... I pulled the timing cover but did not drop the pan. I'm assuming I did not seal where the timing cover meets the pan good enough (although RTV seeped once tightened all around the pan/timing cover)... I put a new front seal in, so I don't think it's that. It's dripping from the bottom of the PS pump as well as the front oil pan bolts so I'm assuming it's getting on the HB (it is wet also) and slinging around. I cleaned it the best I can and will drive it a bit tomorrow and pull it up on ramps when I get home and check it out again. Might just be better off pulling both and resealing properly and I an inspect if the double roller is rubbing on anything as well... And honestly, I don't mind pulling the motor... I'll have it out in 3 hours or less then I'll have plenty of room to work on the leak and PCS.

Or I may just drop subframe and all.. both sides have ot come loose. lol

I like to put a light amount of RTV on both sides of the cover gasket say the bottom inch on both sides, then on both sides of the gasket. I goop the pan to cover area as well, ensure that there's teflon paste on the cover bolts. Typically that won't leak. Sounds like your leak may be higher up.. say the lower elbow.

based on what you are saying.. I don't think I sealed it up good enough. I dabed the sealant on in the corners pre and post timing cover gasket like on a LIM but not much higher up on the block.. I did use my finger and put a thin layer on the block and on the timing cover gasket. The only RTV I put on the pan was specific white oil pan gasket stuff I got when I worked for VW (maybe that's why.. LOL) Does the sealant expire??? I have had the white stuff for a while, could be the issue as well. I did teflon paste all the cover bolts, but now that I think about it I forgot to clean out the holes only the bolts.. I drove it today and I have 2 50 cent piece size in my driveway now and the horse shoe bracket has a slight puddle. Lower coolant elbow?? Both of those are the new aluminum ones and are bone dry, the snout of my supercharger is bone dry (the original one was leaking out the seal BAD but ordered a rebuilt one from Intense and have since replaced) I don't think the residuals of that is finally showing up after 200 miles. I did use a paper timing cover gasket, but have a metal one here. I used the paper one because it's a tad thicker then the metal one. When I remove the timing cover and if I have no rubbing, I'll replace what's there with the metal one (or do you have a preference on which, paper or metal. I still have one of each NIB)

It could be coming from higher up, but I can't tell. The inside ring of the HB is wet, but if it's wet enough to sling around I doubt... Other then that, the motor runs STRONG and no issues. Fires up half a second the key is turned, idles as it should for the cam, great power... Just a dang drip.. LOL

As for the trans, I have my PCS and Transgo Shift Kit on it's way!!! I'm also going to order a large trans cooler and bypass the radiator one as well. This is IF I pull my trans pan off and all is decent looking and I don't see sludge. That's another reason I don't mind pulling everything back out, incase the trans is shot, I'm halfway to fixing it.. LOL

I don't think the VW goop was bad. I have goops in my toolbox that are old and I still use them when it's needed. Doesn't sound like you did anything wrong on the install...probably just got one little leak.

I changed my oil today and got up under there looking around. It's not coming from a pressurized area (well I say this because it's not squirting out), it's just a drip. But I can't pinpoint where it's coming from... I see the inner lip, between the inside belt and the inner edge, of the HB is wet so it leads me to believe it's slinging it around. The front 5 bolts on the oil pan have drops built up on them as well. Frustrating. I'm starting to lean toward the front main. I've heard both good and bad about the felpro seals, and stupid me didn't throughly check the "shaft" of the HB before I installed it. I might jerk the HB back off and reinstall a new GM front seal instead of the felpro one. I'll do that in the car. If that doesn't fix it, I'll just pull it and redo the timing cover and pan.

As for my trans, I drove it today for 40 - 45 minutes on the highway and the trans temp didn't get above 190* Pulling my mountain coming home it got to 204 - 205. No P1811 code triggered and car did great. My shift kit and PCS are all here now so I'll install the shift kit with the front main seal and go from there. If I do end up pulling the motor to reseal everything, I'll pull the trans to and replace the PCS at that time. My question is, is that temp high? I mean the temp sensor is on the valve body, I'd think it would be pretty hot being in that location but I have also heard anything over 180 is hot... :-/. I also took my car to the drag strip tonight, hotlapped it 4 passes. When I started the car it was at 154. After running it it got to 198, no P1811 no firm shifts...

Like all GP's, it's a work in progress that never ends.. LOL

Got my transgo shift kit installed and WOW!!!!!!!!! Shifts are crisp and feels great under normal load and at WOT it goes into gear quick and firm. I swear by this kit!!

I drove the car around today for a couple hours, trans temp never went over 190 and that was climbing the mountain slowly behind another car. Normal driving, temp stays around 185ish. Can't wait for Friday at the strip..

It's like magic in a box!