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09-11-2008
Hey all, after many sleepless nights, i have decide to take my transmission out myself. But after some research i am still kinda confused. what is the easiest way you have found to remove the trans? can somebody give me a list of how to take it out in order? much appreciated...
09-11-2008
Are you taking out just the transmission or are you pulling both the engine and transmission?
09-11-2008
There are basically two ways to do this. Out the top with the engine if you have a cherry picker....or out the bottom if you don't.
Out the top is pretty strait forward:
Drain coolant, and remove all the accesory parts such as the alternator, unbolt the A/C compressor, PS pump.
Take off coil packs, Manifolds & crossover, Then remove starter, take out the flywheel bolts and separate the transmission. (you don't necessarily have to do all of this, but it does make it easier and less cumbersome to remove them separately.) You can also remove a fully dressed engine, but again....less is easier to maneuver.
Out the bottom: BE VERY CAREFUL!
You must support the engine in some way or form. I have a support system specifically for attatching to the engine lift brackets, but others have used 4X4's and rachet straps. The important thing is to make absolutely sure you won't get squished! Then you must support the steering rack. Again, you can use rachet straps here, but you don't want to pull the steering shaft apart, because it's a PITA to reattatch it.
Put the car on jack stands high enough that you will be able to get under it comfortably.
Take the ball joints loose. Unbolt the two bolts holding the steering rack in, you will need to watch this, as the rack sits very snugly into the engine cradle, sometimes a large screwdriver or prybar will get this done easily.
Make sure that your steering lines are unbolted from the cradle, same thing with the tranny cooler lines. The trans lines will obviously need to be removed from the trans. Once you make sure that all the attatching hardware is removed from the cradle, then you and a buddy can lower it with a floor jack keeping it steady. Support the transmission with Jack, remove starter, flywheel bolts, unplug all the harnesses from the transmission. Remove all the transmission bolts, and again, make sure that everything is secured and the trans is supported fully. A little wiggling and a little prying will separate the two, and you should be able to start to lower the tranny. The torque converter has a little nub in the center that sort of sits in the flywheel, so make sure you have plenty of room to get them apart. Once you get the tranny lowered, you can slide it out through the wheel well fairly easy, and then start to reinstall it.
You will most likely need to re align the car again. When you get the subframe put back up, there are two slots in the front that you can use to try and get it back to where it was before, I have a long 3/8 extension I use to get it close, but it's pretty difficult to get it perfect. I'm also sure that I missed a few steps, but the key is keep it safe, and go at a slow pace. If you rush things, you're likely to miss something or worse hurt yourself.
09-11-2008
Brian. This question sound shockingly firmiliar? The only mistake i made was Not disconnecting the rear knock sensor. Pulled the wire right out of the plug. But my brother who has had many years of avionics training was able to hook me up once again with a nice solider joint. Much better than i could ever do.
09-11-2008
Actually, the Knock sensor and the oil pressure sensor. Good thing you said something about that. But that's why you go slow and not just jerk it out.
09-11-2008
Its just the transmission.Originally Posted by SyntheticShield
09-11-2008
thanks for the info, how high should the car be jacked? and how long avg will this take? Also what are the required tools for the job? i need all the help i can get lol, im starting this on sat.
Last edited by cobraz; 09-12-2008 at 06:57 AM.
09-12-2008
When you undo the cradle? do you have to drop the entire thing?
09-12-2008
Yes, you do.
09-12-2008
The way I did it was to get the car up on 4 - 6 ton jack stands app. 24" off the floor & supported the engine -w a cherry picker. Then I undid the power steering lines, unbolted the steering linkage, unbolted the cradle, then lowered the engine by the cherry picker to the point where I could unbolt the mounts at the dr side & passenger side, supporting the cradle -w- 2 - 2ton jacks, then separated the cradle from the drivetrain and set it aside. Next I lowered the combo low enough so I could unbolt the bellhousing from the engine, supporting the transmission -w- the 3 ton jack & separated from the engine, lowered and rolled out from under the car. To do it this way you basically have to remove the entire driver side suspension first. Make sure you loosen the bracket on the 2 hoses running along the firewall as they will be under stress with the engine lowered. Also make sure all electrical connectors are loose. It's a PITA, but it's doable this way.
09-12-2008
I jack the car up as high as the jackstands will allow. It's nice to have a lot of room. The special tools would be the engine support if you have access to one...but like I said, some people get creative by running 4X4's between the strut towers, and then one from front to back...kinda making a cross shape. You must absolutely make sure that the engine won't move. There are two hoist brackets on the engine...one is on the back side on the passenger side of the engine, another on the front driver's side...they're black with a loop at the top. And also like I said, the steering rack will need to be unbolted from the frame, and pried out. Make sure that you loop a strap under this to keep it from dropping down with the frame at all. The subframe isn't extremely heavy, but it's kind of a handfull for one guy that doesn't have experience with this.
Also, one last thing....don't forget to get all of the engine to transmission bolts out....there's one that we affectionately call the ***** bolt...it's on the back side, very bottom of where the bell housing is. If you feel along the back, it will be right where the transmission starts to go behind the engine. 19mm head....and you'll learn quickly why we call it by that name.
09-12-2008
okay, here goes nothing, ill keep you guys posted tommorow. Thanks for the advice
09-13-2008
need help with that stupid f*&^ing bolt. lol. how do you get it off? i damn near shook the car of the jack trying to get it off. smashed my hand of the bottom when the wrench slipped
Last edited by cobraz; 09-13-2008 at 01:09 PM.
09-13-2008
which bolt ? you need to take out alot of bolts so you need to be a little more specific. and air tools make it 1000000000000% easier to get it out.
09-13-2008
I think he is referring to that crazy friggin bolt on the back side of the engine that bolts the engine to the bell housing. The one you need like a three foot long extension to reach. I cant help him because I pulled the engine and tranny together and then seperated them once I had them pulled out and better access.
09-13-2008
I got mine out fine....with the rear header on and a wrench...thats it...
09-13-2008
i was lucky enough that whoever put the new motor in befor i got the car left that one out (tell me that wasnt my lucky day) , but thats exactly how i got the new one back in , three foot extension and a swivel and a impact gun.
someone posted about removing power steering lines , i found it easier to just unbolt the rack from the sub frame and leave it hanging there.
09-13-2008
Started pouring rain, so ill get back at it tommorow, but a 3 foot extention? you guys are joking right?
09-13-2008
Nope, no joke. I have one in my garage that I got just in case I decided to just drop the transmission. Its a 1/2" drive but it will reach that bolt if I ever need to. The reason it needs to be so long is so that you can reach that bolt from the passenger side wheel well.
09-14-2008
I also have one of those flex head rachets that I can use to get to those stupid bolts....Best $25 I ever spent at Sears.
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