Thread: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time)

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  1. #1 Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
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    After four installations, I determined that the aftermarket seal on the passenger side of my GTP was slightly different than the OEM seal. Bottom line, this side does not leak anymore...

    Now, I'm fighting the driver side.

    I've tried the OEM seal as well as two different aftermarket seals. All leak.

    The Axle is new, its surface is pristine. I've checked its diameter and it's perfect for this seal. I've also installed with a small amount of RTV on the outside of the seal when installing to assure it's not leaking in the mount.


    The seal leaks where it seals against the shaft (I can tell as when I remove the axle, there is a pool of ATF below this sealing lip above the seal housing.

    I have installed this last seal with surgery room cleanliness.

    My question is two fold:

    1) Is it normal for a brand new seal to leak a little before stopping? This is the first trip I have on this new seal and it's leaking a little. Will it seal up?
    2) If the anwser to #1 is no (as I think it is), what the hell else can I do??? I've tried everything. I know the axle is built properly as it fits int he roller bearing cage perfectly. I also checked the depth etc, all look perfect to me.

    After each seal installation, I think to myself "it can't be installed any more precisely than that" or "this time it CAN'T leak".

    I've eliminated every source of seal-related leaks I can think of:

    - the axle itself is pristine (only about 2 months old)
    - the tranny housing is not gouged at all
    - I've tried three different brands of seals including OEM

    Anything else I shouled check? I'm sick of this!
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  2. #2 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
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    One other thought....

    Leaking seals to me usually means high pressure. I checked the level and it's on the bottom of the hatch line (i.e. slightly low).

    I KNOW my transmission is about shot. The forward band is glazed or something similar as it will shudder during acceleration (sometimes). While I driove it very gingerly this morning (no shuddering AT ALL), it's still leaking.

    I also dropped the pan a couple weeks ago and changed the fluid. The fluid was pretty dirty, and the magnet was soaked with dust. I changed the fluid but not the filter (the filter only had about 15k miles on it).

    I know that's a no-no, I'm going to replaced the filter this weekend (with new fluid too).

    Bottom line, are there any sources of hydraulic pressure (positive or negative) that could cuase leaking seals?
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  3. #3 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    There shouldn't be any pressure. Go take a drive and try to get it to seal itself.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  4. #4 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
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    I'm going to change the ATF this weekend with a new filter.

    The fluid I'm using is Sam's club no-name Dexron III with 20k miles on it. I will switch to something I at least recognize this time and see if it still leaks.

    I know the filter is pretty plugged (given the state of the pan when I dropped it - the only reason I dropped it at all was for something else so I didn't have a filter on hand).

    The FIRST drive on this brand new seal resulted in leaks. I'm hoping it seals over time (With new fluid et al).
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  5. #5 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I'd go rip on it ...if it's not going to cause a fluid shortage. But that's me. I often tell people not to follow my example.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  6. #6 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
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    Not sure what you mean....

    I don't care about the fluid shortage. I'm just anal retentive and I don't want this ******* leak (or spots in my driveway).
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  7. #7 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
    GTP Level Member Rico's Avatar
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    Think he means drive the hell out of it if it's not leaking so bad as to ruin the tranny.
    It's a CUMMINS Dodge not a Dodge Cummins
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  8. #8 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    More like...go treat it like a pos leaking car. Then see if that helps the seal seat itself.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  9. #9 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
    GTP Level Member Rico's Avatar
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    Well then then everyone that owns a GP should be driving like that.
    It's a CUMMINS Dodge not a Dodge Cummins
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  10. #10 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    I drive my Regal that way. Seems to hold up better
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  11. #11 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
    Transmission Expert Trannyman95's Avatar
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    It sounds to me like your seal is not the problem, no reason to have that many seals leak especially new. There are a few things that will cause a drivers side like- and first you need to make 100% sure it is actually the axle seal that is leaking. Clean the entire area off with parts cleaner and make sure it is dry. Drive the car around the block and look again. There is a large o-ring inside the side cover of the transmission that seals against the channel plate- which is where your axle seal goes. You mention the trans being tired so I have to assume it has age and mileage on it, seals and o-rings dont last forever. Also the side cover gasket could be seeping a bit, or worse yet you could have a crack in the side cover at the second to last lower torx head bolt which can easily be cracked during repair if not torqued carefully.

    After all of this has been closely checked and you are still down to the axle seal being the definate source of the leak then it could be a crack in the channel plate behind the seal or the bearing that the cv hub rides on could be damaged or out of position which can definately cause an axle seal leak. If the bearing is in correct position and in good condition then the cv hub should sit in the right spot and not sag on the seal which would cause it to leak.
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  12. #12 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
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    Thanks!

    I'm prety sure it's the seal. I had the same problem on the pass side.

    I've cleaned the area and short of magnafluxing it (don't know if you can on Al) I'm sure it's not cracked.

    It seeped on the first trip on the new seal but looks relatively dry now. It's as if it leaked at first but has now sealed.

    I'm dropping the pan this weekend (again) and switching to a decent ATF. What I have in it now is a plugged filter with sam's club ATF. I'm changing to synthetic ATF and a new filter.

    I think at this point that perhaps I'm just very sensitive to leaks. I clean the area around it, and as soon as I get to work (after replacing the seal, first trip with new seal), crawl under the car and see some ATF has leaked. I cleaned the area again, and when I got back home it's dry.

    Bottom line: I think my tranny is about shot. It shudders badly on acceleration but not when in first. I think the fwd band is trashed.

    I'm going to see how the new ATF works. I'm then going to limp it along and then look at possibly a rebuilt unit.

    That being said: how hard is a tranny drop? How much for a decent rebuilt unit?

    All of these are separate issues. If my wife lets me, I will get under my car tonight and see if it's as dry as it appeared when I got home (much to my shock).
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  13. #13 Re: Axle seal - AGAIN (driver side this time) 
    Transmission Expert Trannyman95's Avatar
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    Thats good that it is staying dry for you now.

    I would advise against synthetic if it is already shuddering under hard acceleration and is on its last leg, it will initially slip more with synthetic and these transmissions have a long history of not agreeing with a switch to synthetic with higher mileage and previous life with standard fluid. If it was a lower mileage transmission that worked perfectly fine that is one thing, but it sounds like you are well past that! I wouldnt go leaps and bounds for the best trans fluid on a tired trans, it just isnt going to help out or at least do what you may expect from it. Lots of people use brand X cheapest trans fluid you can find and it works fine. It all has to meet xx approval rating to be certified for use in place of designated fluids. Im not saying it is all good nor bad, just wouldnt worry too much about it.

    If you are thinking about tackling a trans swap yourself it isnt too bad but you will have to decide whether you want to pull engine and trans together out the top OR the common method of dropping the trans out the bottom-which will require an engine support bar to hang the engine from. There are several writeups on this forum and others for trans removal and installations.

    Good used transmissions are getting harder to find with decent price and lower mileage. Some places want an arm and a leg anymore for anything under 80K miles.

    If you are interested in a rebuilt from us you can check out the details on our website, Triple Edge Performance - Home Page
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