Thread: To flush or not to flush?

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  1. #1 To flush or not to flush? 
    SE Level Member 7point62's Avatar
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    Hi, just found this forum... anyway:

    I have a 2001 GT with 115000 km on it (about 72000 miles). I had it in for an oil change the other day and my mechanic said my trans fluid is starting to look a little brown. I got the car just this year with 114000 km (~71000 miles) on it at the time. It's shifting fine and not making any noises; but I have no idea what the previous owner did in terms of trans service. All I know is the car in general is in immaculate shape, but I keep hearing a flush once fluid becomes brown is a bad idea. So, flush or not?
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  2. #2 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    GT Level Member Remnant King's Avatar
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    The dealer usually recommend flushes every 50,000 miles, people sometimes do it every 30,000 miles.

    Since it's not that far off from 50k miles, I am not sure what people will say, but as of now, since it hasn't been flushed before, I'd do a pan drop and just top it off.


    2000 Midnight Blue Grand Prix GTP Coupe
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  3. #3 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    GXP Level Member Zef_66's Avatar
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    Since you don't know the history of the car, I would stick with doing a pan drop to change out the filter and replace the fluid that is lost with new. It will replace about half the fluid. Then go 20k-30k miles and do it again. Just stick with pan drops so you can change the filter and don't do the flush. That is my advice.
    2001 GSE
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  4. #4 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    GTP Level Member Couch's Avatar
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    i've done my trans every 45000km. i do a filter change, then flush afterwards.
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  5. #5 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    if its burn and brown DON'T flush it, just drop the pan and change the filter, add 8 new quarts, down the road 5 to 10,000 miles later you could drop the pan again and replace another 8 quarts.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  6. #6 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    GrandPrix Junkie CrazyGuy03's Avatar
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    So everyone knows, what's the reasoning behind if it's brown don't flush it down?
    Curious to know
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  7. #7 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    when your fluid is brown, your trans is on its way to its death. when you flush it everything that's floating in the brown fluid comes out, and that crap was all that was keeping your trans working. its all worn off clutch material. lose it and your car stops moving.

    the best thing you could do for your trans is if you bought it new, or got it within 45,000 miles or less,( and if its still nice and red) is to flush it every 30,000.

    did this with my 97 gmc, and that trans went 175,000 with towing a 4,000 lb boat every weather permitting weekend, snow plowing in the winter, and drove 3000 miles a month for work. and it could very well still be working to this day, the new owner made it into a landscaping truck, so its hard life continued.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  8. #8 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    I live here. SlowNA06's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    that crap was all that was keeping your trans working.
    Sludge: Now a factory part.
    Quote Originally Posted by scottydoggs View Post
    its all worn off clutch material.
    I thought clutches were made of glitter, not brown? So, what's the difference between clutchgrind (sounds like a band) and "burnt fluid (not a band)?"

    Either way, trans fluid lasts a maximum of 5 years or 50,000 miles. It need to get changed. Controversially [note: nobody here likes my opinion], I recommend a flush to everyone, regardless of miles. Because I don't believe that a transmission is made of magic. All that's supposed to be in there is parts and trans fluid.

    If you get it flushed, make sure to give your mechanic EXPRESS instructions to follow GM procedure to a T; which means NO solvents, just Dextron. Nothing but Dextron. Ever. Seahorses. Forever.
    Irridium spark plugs last 100k mi and work just as well as copper. Copper is a waste on N/A and only lasts 15k mi. Don't use Platinum.
    Use 195* tstat unless you can thoroughly explain why not; 99.9% don't need a lower temp.
    Almost any oil filter, ever, is of higher quality than ACDelco. Spend $6+.
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  9. #9 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Hey Slow..I'm here backing you up.

    The only thing to keep in mind with a trans flush is if you are having problems with the trans, then a flush isn't typically going to help it.

    Dark fluid is normal after 70K miles. It's not uncommon for it to smell a little cooked and be off color. 70K miles isn't freshly changed fluid.

    If you want to flush, I say do it. However ensure that somewhere in the process the filter is changed. Flush doesn't automatically mean filter change.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  10. #10 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    GTX Level Member Spencerad4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowNA06 View Post
    I recommend a flush to everyone, regardless of miles. Because I don't believe that a transmission is made of magic.
    Wrong.. Dont take advice from someone that is going to call years of experience about what Transmissions do.. Magic..

    Sorry.. Not trying to be an ass.. Just seen people give out advice like you are.. Then the other person pay for it..
    "..Pure adrenaline attached to a license plate.."
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  11. #11 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    GrandPrix Junkie CrazyGuy03's Avatar
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    So it's best to do pan drop filter change. That way you dilute the old fluid with new fluid
    Is that the best recommendation?
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  12. #12 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    Turbo is the way to go. BillBoost37's Avatar
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    Crazy..

    it depends on your goal. To replace all the fluid, flush. To do it over time, drop and do it at least each year.
    I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.

    2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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  13. #13 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    ive seen 3 cars with burnt up brown, stinking fluid, come into a lube express, (my friend was the manager) they asked for a T tech, trans fluid flush, they checked the fluid, it was bad, they told the customer not to do the T tech, they insisted it be done, they have them sign the paper work, and all three left on a tow truck, 2 of them made it down the road about a mile or so, one was dead in the bay.

    if your trans is slipping already the flush wont help, its already dead.

    take my trans fluid for example, its brown, got god only knows how many miles,(car has 214,00) no way im flushing it, but it dont slip at all and shifts pretty good, most i would do to my own trans is a pan drop and filter. not taking a chance at trans failure.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  14. #14 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    GrandPrix Junkie CrazyGuy03's Avatar
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    Didnt mean to threadjack with my questions but it would be nice to have one thread that has correct info. I recently did searches and every site has conflicting info. I was hoping my questions would be similar to others looking for the same answer.
    Thanks for the help Bill

    Btw it seemed to creep up on me, like my fluid was red and bam now it's brown. It's a rebuild with about 60k on it. So that's what started my hunt for suggestions
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  15. #15 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    honda owner. jerZcavy4120's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazyguy03 View Post
    would be nice to have one thread that has correct info. I recently did searches and every site has conflicting info. I was hoping my questions would be similar to others looking for the same answer.
    x2 this ^



    i still need to do my pan drop (god knows if it was ever changed)
    but i'm still nervous to do it because ALL of you guy's stories. i have the new filter and gasket, just need to buy the fluid still, but. idfk if wanna do it.
    Jenny, The '99 Silvermist GTP. With the mod's that matter.
    I would rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than lose by an inch, because someone else built it for me. Your car is your story, so don't let someone else write the book.
    http://www.grandprixforums.net/threads/76250-Jenny-(Picture-Heavy)/page2
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  16. #16 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    I live here. TLSheff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerZcavy4120 View Post
    i still need to do my pan drop (god knows if it was ever changed)
    but i'm still nervous to do it because ALL of you guy's stories. i have the new filter and gasket, just need to buy the fluid still, but. idfk if wanna do it.
    A pan drop will do nothing but help. Do not get worried, that is recommended service, a full flush is 50/50 work/destroy

    Quote Originally Posted by AmericanSoldier View Post
    ...not scanning/monitoring your motor is like bangin a hooker and you just HOPE your not infected.
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  17. #17 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    Donating Users Taz Magister's Avatar
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    this thread is opinion based...
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  18. #18 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    GrandPrix Junkie CrazyGuy03's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Taz Magister View Post
    this thread is opinion based...
    That's why I asked for reasons / facts to prove why or why not.

    If you continually change the fluid over the course of 100k your always removIng the worn material. Versus letting it all build up at once.

    Some people might have no slip or have a 1-2 slip bang at wot. Or a serve slip in all gears
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  19. #19 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    ive cooked a few transmissions in my day, and 2 of them still had red fluid, once it starts to slip, nothing is going to help it but new clutch packs. its on the long dark road to death.

    and ive seen in person transmissions fail right after a full flush, that's all the facts i need to know.

    my 97 truck, i bought it new, it got a a flush every 30,000 miles, red fluid out new red in, trans worked fine till the day i sold it at 175,000 miles.

    if the trans has had regular maint its whole life and you know this for a fact, then do the flush.

    if the fluid is brown and you dont know its history, to me its not worth taking the chance of going from a working trans to dead one.

    this is what ive seen and what has happen to me, these are the facts im living by.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  20. #20 Re: To flush or not to flush? 
    GTX Level Member Spencerad4's Avatar
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    I am a manager at a Lube Shop.. If someone wants a T flush after 75k they MUST sign a waiver!!

    The reason is.. After so long the varnish that builds up from clutch plates and broken down additives from the original T fluid .. Actually becomes part of the trans.. Flushing it out doesnt cause the "no go" issues.. It uncovers them..
    My "opinion" is DONT DO IT.. But it is just an opinion..

    By the way.. No matter how much you flush.. The color will never come back fully..

    Good thing that the dye is only a small % of the additves that are needed in the trans.. I say.. Every 30 to 50k.. FLUSH!! But with 115k.. Just do pan drops..
    "..Pure adrenaline attached to a license plate.."
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