Thread: Official 4t65e-HD Rebuild

I figure instead of having multiple threads with issues and questions, I'll just go ahead and post my entire rebuild here. I have around 200 pictures from removing trans/breakdown. I'm going to keep this thread open for my questions and or concerns, and once I get everything back together I'll post a bunch of pictures.

What happened to my 3rd gear frictions here, they were like flaking apart (Raybestos Z-pack is going in)?






Stock Input Piston





AC/Delco Replacement (the quality looks poor, I purchased it from Transtar)





Should I reuse the stock one or use the new one (both pistons on the Rebuild kit, front is New back one pictured is used)? I don't think that caused my 1st gear shudder on mild acceleration. Maybe my issue was only the EPC solenoid.



Sanded Bushing Driver with dremel








Old Bushing and New Bushings










That 3rd clutch snap ring took me 30 minutes to get off. I was getting pretty frustrated and almost called it quits tonight, just then it decided to cooperate.

Ouch 3rd clutches are toast! Notice the adhesive that bonds the friction material to the plate is black on the splined area... they got very hot to do that and the material was deteriorating and flaking apart.

Trannyman is the condition of the new input piston look normal or is it a defective piece? Trannyman can you also PM me with a price for your single chain setup in 2.93 ratio and it would be shipped to schaumburg, IL 60193. Do you have them in stock and ready for delivery as I would need it by 7/11/08?

In the ATSG manual it calls numerous times for petrolatum (vaseline) to be used on seals and what not (accumulator seal), is transmission assembly lube the same thng (I bought SPX Gold Transgel), as well as Sonnax Slippery Stick. I've used my SPX Gold Transgel so far for holding my new thrust bearing in the input carrier.

If their a difference, I'll just go down to my local Walgreens and pick up a tub of vaseline for $3 or what not tomorrow.

My single chain conversions are on sale currently for $264.95 and yes they are in stock and ready to ship out. Shipping will be $11 UPS ground to your area. For trans assembly lube you can use vasoline just fine but doesnt stick as well, its up to you. The Gold is pretty gummy and works well. I use a Life product that is synthetic and white/clear in color and works well with temperature variations but really it doesnt matter and is more personal preferrance than anything. The input piston looks normal for a new one, they arent exactly the perfect finish you would expect for a new part but they have always looked that way so you are fine with the one you have.

So where it says in the manual to use petrolatum on accumulator seals, valve body solenoid o-rings, ect., I can just use my SPX trans assembly lube? Is the main purpose of these lubes just to hold the parts and when the trans heats up, it basically breaks down into the trans fluid and the fluid does the lubrication from that point on.

Can you shoot me your paypal address tranyman

There you go, you had to use the word synthetic. Now I want to know what this stuff is and where to get it.

Yep the assembly goo or vasoline is only to temporarily hold parts and as soon as trans fluid warms up and moves through it then it will disolve. I use it on all bushings and moving parts so there is some lube on startup and trans fluid will work ok here also. Scotty the synthetic assembly lube I use is from a company named Life products, a similar company to and competitor of Lubeguard products. I get it through one of my parts suppliers and not too many places have it.

Trannyman I have two valve body questions. Is the 3-4 accumulator valve and the 2-3 accumulator valve layed out right with the red spring going into the plug and the plug facing the right direction. the right direction as well. I believe it looks right but just want to make sure.






I had a trans shop ream my AFL bore (channel plate), TCC circuit, and my Forward/Reverse boost valves. I went ahead and purchased all the Sonnax anodized valves withe the surecure kit and I was looking over their work when I realized I wasn't quite sure if they installed the TCC Regulator apply valve bore plug. Is that metal clip they used for the TCC control valve alright to be left there (it looks like it would prevent movement), or am I suppose to remove it?





Does it look like its installed right, I have two plugs (I didn't give them mine, so they gave me one of theirs. I have two of them in my box, and I'm not exactly which one I should use. I installed the plug with the blue o-ring with the oring going into the bore first. The sonnax TCC sleeve hit the valve body end and also hits the bore plug so that leads me to believe its installed ok.










Part of my New Sonnax valves, some are already installed. I dropped probably $500 on the valve body between sensors and new valves which is overkill no doubt, but it should be great for at least 150k or so, at least I hope



Also when I had the channel plate at the trans shop, they removed by 4 accumulator piston and I'm not quite sure if I have the pin in right. I know the springs are OK as those are from the transgo kit.

The valves in the first pic look fine as far as how they are lined up. The plug with the blue oring needs to have the oring side go in first. The two plugs you showed are the same but with the oring on wrong on one of them, just make sure the plug is flush and the clip that retains it fits ok. Also make sure you replace the oring as the blue one can cause problems as they age. On your 4th accumulator setup the pin does go through the top side of the channel plate. Make sure you put the springs and piston into the 4th accumulator housing before you put them in the channel plate.

Just to make I did this right, I'll post pics. Did you happen to look at my TCC valve (teflon one) with that metal clip they put in midway on the valve? Was that just to hold it in while they put the solenoid in?

The rubber o-ring isn't shown on the first pic but I did install it





Thanks Dave you helped a lot

Yep that looks correct. The metal clip on the TCC valve is just to temporarily hold the valve in place for assemply purposes. They are there from the factory but never reuse them and are not required to be there.

This makes a nice wallpaper

Any updates?

I just purchased a 7/8 chain setup from trannyman, I should have it in the next day or so as I'm just outside of chicago. I also purchased all of the seal protectors and resizers which weren't exactly cheap. I figured I can either sell them used when I'm done, or rent them out to other people that are looking to rebuild their transmission. I have the expander/resizers for the input shaft, the drum (holds 1st,3rd frictions) as well as the seal expanders for the input,2nd,3rd. I should receive them all either Wednesday or Thursday, so the game plan is to have everything back in hopefully this weekend. I need to find an easier way to remove the bushings as they are a pain the in butt. The US general bushing driver set should fit all the bushings with just a few minutes with a dremel on the customizing the bushing drivers. The smaller bushings I used a 15mm socket and a hammer. There's one bushing that is around a 55mm size which none of my bushing drivers fit, so I'm looking into finding something that works for it.

Is their any interest in starting like a rental tool section. I for one now have a bunch of trans tools, snap on scanner which can read abs/airbags/engine/trans DTC's, engine boroscope (brothers I may purchase), supercharger gen II pulley press/remover.

I would most certainly be interested in renting a few of those tools from you for my rebuild. Id be interested in renting that borescope as well.

Trannyman

I'm installing my Z-pack in for 3rd tomorrow and it says not to install pressure plate, is that the same thing as a wave plate? The Z-pack doesn't mention anything about using the 3rd clutch wave plate. The z-pack has has two .055" thick steel plates that are in the bottom of the pack that I think replaces the wave plate.


Also for my 2nd clutch pack, I bought 2 thicker Alto steel plates that I can use to tighten up 2nd (I'll probably only use 1). Do I just replace any one of the standard steel plates in the pack, or is it better to use it towards the top or bottom. I'm assuming it doesn't really matter as it is only a couple thousands bigger, but I'll leave that for the experts.

I have my frictions soaking in my amsoil trans fluid right now for tomorrows assembly.

Originally Posted by TDCRacing

SCOTTY where you at!!!!???? lol

This might get his atttention, LOL