Thread: Official 4t65e-HD Rebuild

I'll get you my links and provide some insight this weekend regarding the AN diff squirter setup I was contemplating.

I spent 2.5 hrs tonight and got the torque converter bolted on, starter installed, engine mount installed, tranny support bracket, diff support bracket, drained power steering fluid (smelled worse than my supercharger fluid did), and a few other things.

Friday hopefully I'll get the cradle installed with no issues, install the steering rack, and swap out drivers side spindle.

The only thing that might prevent me from testing my car late friday would be my new oil sending unit from the vette doesn't bolt into our stock location. I need to find an adapter to hook it up. When I have that installed and hooked up to one of my aeroforce interceptor gauges, I'll start the car up. I replace my oil pan gasket and oil pickup tube, and I want to make sure I have adequate psi before I start driving it around.

Trannyman, when I flush my tranny line with Kooler Klean, do I just hook it up with the straight tranny line and spray it in? Once the can stops flowing, I read that your still suppose to hold the button as it sprays air through the system which helps to evaporate whats still left in the trans line/trans cooler.

Most shops as well as myself like to use the can both directions, use half of it one way and the other half the other way. I attach a piece of rubber line from the free end down into a drain pan so it doesnt go everywhere. If you have a blow gun then LIGHTLY blow air through it to get any remains out though it will evaporate over time. You may want to wear a mask too as its pretty potent stuff, definately have the door open!

Is the tranny fill tube bolt an M6 x 1.00? I figured I would bolt the tube in once I fiinished with everything else. Well I can't get my M6 x 1.0 bolt in. I got it half way in, but I can't figure out how to get a ratchet in their, and with my Nut driver I can't generate enough torque. Tomorrow I need to pick up the adapter for my oil sending unit, and put the tires on and hope everything works alright.

I am very interested in your experience with the Z-pack clutches if you care to give some insight once you get it running.

Scotty the big question isnt the 2-3 shift with the Zpack, it is what is the difference with the same exact fresh rebuilt trans and shift kit with OE, THEN torn back apart to put the Zpack in for comparison. With a new trans there is really nothing to compare, it better shift much improved over a worn out trans! With the shift kit and clutch feeds set up right, sorry if I sound like a broken record, the OE cluches work great and I have not seen the need for a anything different clutches but again as I mentioned above you are not comparing apples to apples unless you are only replacing one component and not part of a complete rebuild.

The trans is up and running. I have a few things that I need to address still. My brakes are squeeking horribly since the car sat outside for a month and my new rotors have rust all over them. I also need to bring my car back in for an alignment (NTB 5 yr warranty) as my camber is off a bit and that is causing my tires to rub a bit (bfgoodrich KDWS 235*50*18).

The torsen diff is AMAZING this morning while I was testing it in the rain. I turned on to a major intersection while it was raining and gave it like 60% power while initiating the turn and I could feel the power going from one wheel to the other. Normally I would have just spun the inside tire but this time I could feel both tires fighting for every last bit of traction. At lunch today I had to do a U-turn on a busy street and I need to mash the gas to merge in with traffic. I needed to hang onto the steering wheel as the car just pulls so hard around sharp corners. I'm sure this wasn't exactly great on the cv shafts but it was pretty cool having the front of the car actually pull hard around the corners instead of getting the deadly one tire burnout.

I'm going to pull the torsen out either next summer or during winter recess between my college semesters and see how its doing. I need to post a bunch of pictures of my rebuild (I have around 300 or so). I need to find an easier way than using imageshack.us

I did notice that my shifts weren't as hard while under full throttle with the transgo kit. My wbodyshift kit hit harder under full power, but the transgo definitely is a bit firmer than stock. I might try increasing my line pressure via my powertuner. I haven't messed around with my dhp 1.5v trans settings, so this maybe an excuse to play around with them.

Glad to hear you got it together and its working good for you! Also good to hear someone that has the torsen diff and and how it is working. The Transgo shift kit is not a performance kit and the shifts arent going to be much firmer than stock unless you make changes. The Wbody store shift kit uses spacers to limit/block accumulator travel which gives you higher pressure during a shift. The transgo kit is a progressive spring setup that will give higher pressure sooner than a stock spring but not as much as just using longer spacers.

Originally Posted by Trannyman95

Scotty the big question isnt the 2-3 shift with the Zpack, it is what is the difference with the same exact fresh rebuilt trans and shift kit with OE, THEN torn back apart to put the Zpack in for comparison. With a new trans there is really nothing to compare, it better shift much improved over a worn out trans! With the shift kit and clutch feeds set up right, sorry if I sound like a broken record, the OE cluches work great and I have not seen the need for a anything different clutches but again as I mentioned above you are not comparing apples to apples unless you are only replacing one component and not part of a complete rebuild.

You're not a broken record. Im more curious than anything and I guess the main thing that caught my attention with the Z-Pack clutches is their reported better heat dissipation. But you are also right in the comparison, its not really and apples to apples when you put those in during a rebuild rather than put the stock set in, pull those out then put in the Z-Packs.

Trannyman

Prior to me rebuilding my trans, I had the wbody shift kit with a DHP 1.5 file. When I'm driving around 38 mph, I could hit the performance shift button and get the downshift from 3-1 and get that nice firm quick shift from 1-2. For some reason, if I try to do the same thing with the transgo shift kit at 38 mph it feels as though the trans downshifts fine and the car lags for a sec and then it takes off. Its as if the RPM's jump to 5500 rpm or say and the car doesn't accelerate at all for a second and then it pulls. It reminds me of a turbo setup where it takes a second for the turbo to spool up and then it starts to pull. It might also be the car is hanging onto 1st to long and then shifts into second.

Any ideas what it might be? If I take off from a stand still, the car shifts great and doesn't slip at all. Prior to me modding my car, I never experienced the DHP 1.5 without the wbody shift kit. I put all my power mods on the same day so it was quite the improvement over stock. So what I might be describing is normal, but I really miss that firm shift.

Any recommendations on how to firm up the shifts. I would prefer to still utilize the transgo kit as it looks like a higher quality kit than wbody stores kit or zzp kit. I'm assuming the accumulator 1-2 spacer should be changed to be more in line with wbodystores size.

As I mentioned earlier the Transgo kit is not a performance kit and isnt going to produce a firm shift because it wasnt designed for that. What you can do to help out the 1-2 firmness is to add a spacer on top of the 1-2 accumulator inside the small spring just like the Transgo instructions show for the 2-3 accumulator and also how your wbody store shift kit spacers are set up. The long spacers on the bottom should be the same or an identical lenght so you shouldnt have to change those. So what you are saying the car does is at a 38mph WOT kickdown into 1st it DOES shift down but feels like the car is just freewheeling sitting at 5500 and then grabs after a second? That almost sounds more like a pressure or weak sprag problem. Are you using the same pcm that you had before you rebuilt the trans or is a different one? Tuning can really help out things like this if you have someone who has a tuner. You can try adding the spacer and it should help firm up the 1-2 a little bit. Outside of tuning to help out the other option is to take the valve body back off but Im sure you dont want to go through that again!

My fuel pump just died this morning, so that could have been my issue with the skip shift. I'm assuming maybe the pump wasn't able to build fuel pressure quick enough for the 3-1 downshift which caused it to hesitate for a second and then it would go.

I myself am going thru this right now with just the valve body that needs replacement. I already bought an acdelco reman'd valve body,a new PCS,TCC PWM solenoid,2 shift solenoids,shift switch,spacer plate,and filter/gaskets. I am just waiting on the parts to come in by the end of this week to get it done. A local trans shop quoted me $350 if I wanted them to do this in a day. I might consider them to get the car back with only a day of downtime. I believe $350 is pretty reasonable since I bought all the parts totaling $211 shipped. This would be a total of $561 total which seems about right in the area of $500-$600 parts/labor to tear down to remove the valve body and reinstall. I will post back once I get all the parts in before deciding whose going to do the work. So it might just be before and after posts to comment on what difference I saw with the new parts. Wish me luck on getting it done.