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As a heads up, the MSD coils are total ****. I dont have a picture, but all 3 of mine have split down between the terminals. One all together broke, the terminal actually broke off.
Stay with Stock coils.
I like my ZZP wires, though I have heard mixed reviews, most of which the plug wont clip onto the sparkplug, you can read the reviews right on their site. Never heard anything bad about PRJ, so its up to you.
ZZP sells a GXP brake-kit, and with rotors/pads/SS lines, it'll be close to $500.
Not true, GT1 and GT2 cams with 1.9 rockers would net a .603 lift which exceeds the clearancing from vendor ported heads. Also that amount of lift exceeds the binding point of 105 and 130 pound springs. Only the 150 pound springs will clear up to .625 and have to have a QQuote:
Originally Posted by matt5112
1.9 inch install height as opposed to a 1.8 inch height of a 105 or 130 spring. Gonna need to look into a double roller timing chain too
Quote:
Originally Posted by deathjunior
ZZ Performance <Really,Click the link. Even the review on there website is bad. Your stock GT coils should be fine. You want a COPPER PLUG. Its dissapates heat and helps with detionation. You also want a 103 heat range plug. What works on a carbed 350 doesnt mean it works on a 3800
if you're running more than .6" lift the cam prolly isnt gonna have much lift at part lobe....Quote:
Originally Posted by OH4CompG
See the whole overkill comment on the "NICK" cam thread.
You want more duration AND lift.... so a GT1 isn't a great idea....
AKA get a REAL turbo cam..........
Heres my advice throw out all the bottom end crap find a LOW mile L26, yes a high compression block, Id start lookin at car-part.com stock coils like everyone else says. Step up and buy the Aluminum ZZP heads if in fact you have a 27k budget.:th_nervous: Ill just go ahead and say BS until I see this "monster" built. Oh a L26 will also have a metal upper intake which will be a huge plus for a turbo build. Do every thing you can to find a Torsen diff and 1 inch GMR chain for the Diff in the trans. I'd assume you already have 3.29s if your starting with a GT build no matter what you'll need a trans built anyways. Do the CTS-V brake upgrade too that should fit in with the 27k budget. Pretty sure Drunkie has a 100% parts break down for the CTS-V upgrade me and him have talked about this many times. Id do E85 and about 80lb injectors, Id also think about meth injection, and using an air to water IC from say ZZP for the SC cars. Air to water intake IC combine with a front mount air to air from the turbo kit will make tuning easier and the car safer with more boost. Umm whos doing the tuning? Where do you live, got any people close that have any idea how to tune a big hp 3800? And last but not least I could build a 500 hp turbo Grand Prix including trans, turbo kit, suspension, wheels/tires, and the entire cost of the car easily for under 18k. Good luck!! :)
the real question is. have you ever driven a car with this level of power? if not, you're in for a surprise... LOL
^^^^^^ this lol a 400 whp turbo car would be a handful and fast as hell if done right!!! 500 whp is like what 2.5 times the amount of a GT if you figure a GT makes maybe 180 whp.
gt makes 140 whp LOL
this build will be awesome if/when done
kuntzie... youve got competition...
and to the handling that much power... you are gonna be in for a surpise..
'driver hits the throttle'
"oh this is okay"
'turbo spools up...'
HOOOLLLYYY SHAAAATTTT
kuntzie's car is slow because its a manual so it wont spool on the shifts and transfers more power to the wheels because it doesnt have to deal with a torque converter.
Kunzie Could brake boost to keep it spooling if he wanted.
But IMO I would not run the GT1 or GT2 cams on a Turbo Setup. Get an Intense or ZZP Turbo cam. Same price as the gt cams with better results.
I'm not even sure where to start. I see a lot of things I would make different suggestions on in the parts list. Reading your responses, I'd suggest reading until your eyes bleed for a few weeks to get to a much better understanding of how the parts go together and work together. And then to top it off, I can't agree more with Matt about building up the shell to accept the power plant.
If you can't stop, power is no good (brakes)
If you can't handle, power is no good (struts, suspension)
If you can't turn, power is no good (sways, tires)
If you can't transmit the power to the wheels, power is no good (transmission)
If you lack any of the above..you have a paper weight. I do a lot of installs and work on this platform, therefore i am asked constantly for suggestions etc. Currently ir really does sound like it would be financially beneficial for you to gain more knowledge before you begin the modding.
If I could do it all over again...it would be the entire GMPP Kit, Some sort of lowering springs, lighter/larger wheels & tires, F-Body or larger brakes, Triple Edge Transmission with 3.29's (GT Gearing) with poly mounts and new solid lowers to help out the new transmission...THEN...
go motor...
What I listed is going to be more expensive than the go faster parts IMO.
^^^ So says the man with a engine that is sitting in a corner of the garage. Not because he cant or wont use it... no ... Its in TIME OUT for eating Tranny after Tranny after Tranny.... too much power without delivery equals bad things.Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
These people have made the mistakes you will want to hope you never have to deal with. Listen well :th_thumbsup-wink:
i have to say this just because im not sure you know what youre getting into....
but you do realize with that setup you are talking about, youre probably not even going to break 450 whp let alone 550 whp? im just being a realist here. id be surprised if you hit 400 whp.
here is what you need to run that much power:
- STOCK ROCKERS, 1.6s, NOT BIGGER (unless you do 1.7s....1.8s if youre a beast, but its a waste when you can make up for it with a cam)
- head work, lots of it
- a cam that is built for the motor, not the other way around
- a big fuggin turbo
- a tuner who knows wtf they are doing
given that, even if you do end up making a good amount of power...how are you putting it to the ground? i have a feeling youre getting way, way ahead of yourself and you need to take a step back and think about what youre doing. a 500whp grand prix is nearly undriveable on the street and youll be breaking parts more often than youll get to drive the car.
Should i just post the whole build sheet lol?
i love all the suggestions im getting though
and im gonna stick with the iron heads, im worried about the temp differences between the block and the head
but looks like im gonna be modifying my engine part section at the very least and ill be having a good friend of mine who builds transmissions be the one to rebuild it so the price ill have on that is just parts
as for the 27K its an all inclusive thing, that includes brakes, suspension, interior, exterior, rim and tire, sound system, and so on, and its gonna happen ive already got 10k of it saved up from the last year, and im going to start working on the interior and sound as soon as the parts come in, then brakes, then suspension, then engine and trans, the last step is paint and body work
400 whp would be realistic with a damn good trans and suspension parts and drive the piss out of it and not have to worry about breaking crap if you do it right the 1st time. Since when is any FWD a dyno queen? Only a few people have over a 500 whp Wbody thats somewhat driveable. 400 whp much more USABLE hp vs. 500+ whp and breaking **** and stuck in the garage hating life.
Your list looked pretty much like a full build list to ask the question of "what needs to be done to the trans".
The reality is you can't get a 1" chain currently and that's about the only one that would hold the kind of power you are aiming to hit. The other thing with the trans is, I built my own the last go round. Figure it's at miniumum $2500 in parts if you start with a good core.
and i think im gonna switch to the statama turbo cam, but which one would you recommend, this isnt gonna be an all out build i still want "some" reliability
So #1, #4, or #5, im thinking i should just go with #1
thats a really hefty list for not being an 'all out' build.